Unless you plan on towing the truck with the rear wheels on the dolly, it won't work. Rear wheel drive vehicles need to have either the rear wheels off the ground or all 4 off the ground when being towed. However, there is one thing you can do if you have to use the dolly and you want to put the front wheels on the dolly. You can disconnect the drive shaft from the rear diff. Never done it so I don't know what all is involved.
Get a u-haul car trailer. Towing with a Dolly and the front wheels on the ground will not be very stable. Plus I don't think you get brakes with the u-haul Dolly. True you will have the added weight of the trailer but you should be under your limits and it will be a much safer tow with a car trailer. I tow a 67 FJ40 Land Cruiser with a car trailer on a regular basis with my 07 Tacoma and it does good. You should have no problem with the Tundra and an F150.
One thing is you gotta lie to U-Haul about what you will have on the trailer. No matter what your tow capacity, they will only allow you to tow like 60% of your own weight. They punch it all into the computer and it approves or disapproves.
They wouldnt let me tow a 300ZX with a Tacoma!
I agree with using the U-Haul car trailer. It will tow a lot nicer and it has it own built in braking system (no controller required) so you wont eat up your trucks brakes.
Some 4x4s can be flat-towed. For example the '00 Nissan Frontier Crewcab (traded-in for '03 Tundra). It went many miles, in Park no less, right behind the old Winnebago. No dolly required, just towbar stuff. (But braking adaptations were in place.)
Of course, the transfer case having a neutral was the key.
The Nissan people said just start it up & run it after each 200 miles or so just to be safe. Never had a problem, it ran 89,000 hard miles after that just fine.