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After dealing with the orange glow of an annoyance for over a year I decided something needed to be done. I'm not putting my sensors in a canister, I'm not ripping the dash apart to put a piece of tape over the light, and I sure as heck wasn't going to spend close to $300 to have all of my sensors replaced and re-programmed. I only did this because I knew I had a faulty sensor somewhere and since I have a 2007 DC I figured the batteries would be peckering out on all of them real soon. This mod is the best one I've seen in recent months and not nearly as difficult as one would assume... remember, don't assume anything because it makes an ass out of you and me. I'm a big dude with large hands so I took the extra time to take apart the glove box assembly and opted to cut the wire (which is more of a turquoise color). Props to "bstevens" for posting his fix. In my opinion, it should be a sticky.
 

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Just an update for anyone who is interested. I have been running this mod on my 07 Tundra now for about 5 years and haven't had a single issue. I also used the same concept on my wife's 2010 highlander a little over 2 years ago and haven't seen a problem with it either. Like I said in the original post, it sends the same signal to the computer that a fully operable TPMS would, so it essentially just tricks the system so there shouldn't be any negative impacts. Glad it is saving some people some money.

Brad
 

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Just an update for anyone who is interested. I have been running this mod on my 07 Tundra now for about 5 years and haven't had a single issue. I also used the same concept on my wife's 2010 highlander a little over 2 years ago and haven't seen a problem with it either. Like I said in the original post, it sends the same signal to the computer that a fully operable TPMS would, so it essentially just tricks the system so there shouldn't be any negative impacts. Glad it is saving some people some money.

Brad
I'm about ready to try this, but why doesn't the modified light blue wire get plugged back into the socket it came from? Why is it spliced to the yellow?
 

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Local Radio Shack didn't have the 2.2k ohm, but had 1k ohm and 3.3k ohm. I not an electrical expert, but if they are wired in series they should be additive which would give 3.2k ohm. If I used a single 3.3k ohm, would this be close enough to work or not?
 

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Local Radio Shack didn't have the 2.2k ohm, but had 1k ohm and 3.3k ohm. I not an electrical expert, but if they are wired in series they should be additive which would give 3.2k ohm. If I used a single 3.3k ohm, would this be close enough to work or not?
3.3kΩ plus 1kΩ in series will give you 4.3kΩ. You'd be closer by having two 1kΩ resistors in series totaling 2kΩ. Sadly, I don't know if this would be adequate.
 

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3.3kΩ plus 1kΩ in series will give you 4.3kΩ. You'd be closer by having two 1kΩ resistors in series totaling 2kΩ. Sadly, I don't know if this would be adequate.
I meant the original configuration calls for a 1k + 2.2k. That in series would yield 3.2k. I was just asking if I bought only the individual 3.3k.
 

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I meant the original configuration calls for a 1k + 2.2k. That in series would yield 3.2k. I was just asking if I bought only the individual 3.3k.
Ahhh... I understand now, but I can't give you a definitive answer. @bstevens did the original work, maybe when he's not busy, he'll be able to shed some light.
 

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I'm about ready to try this, but why doesn't the modified light blue wire get plugged back into the socket it came from? Why is it spliced to the yellow?
The yellow wire is the 12V power source that goes into the TPMS computer. The light blue wire caries the signal to the dash. You wouldn't want to reconnect the light blue wire to the computer because then you would be trying to send competing signals to the dash.
 

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Sorry for still not understanding. Why couldn't you just unplug the light blue wire that sends the signal to the dash? I'm guessing if the inline resistor/diode on the yellow wire were to be missing, the "Check Engine" light would then come on?
 

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Been meaning to get around to doing my own TPMS wheel sensors elimination. I ate 2 senors the last time i got new tires (3 sets actually, defective michelins) no telling how many times the tires were actually removed from the wheels to get it right.. Aired my tires up the other day to max and light is back on.. damn things...
 

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Sorry for still not understanding. Why couldn't you just unplug the light blue wire that sends the signal to the dash? I'm guessing if the inline resistor/diode on the yellow wire were to be missing, the "Check Engine" light would then come on?
The default condition for the tpms light in the dash is on (i.e. If it does not receive any voltage input the light comes on). In order to turn the light off you have to supply approximately 4 volts to the dash through the light blue wire. The yellow wire is a constant 12 volts. Connecting the resistor and diode to it reduces the voltage to the level required to turn off the light. I hope that explains the reasoning well enough. It has been about 7 years since I did this mod and I don't remember the exact numbers but that is the reasoning. It's still working great for me and I have never had any issues with dealerships/inspections/tire changes etc.
 

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I meant the original configuration calls for a 1k + 2.2k. That in series would yield 3.2k. I was just asking if I bought only the individual 3.3k.
Sorry, it has been so long since I worked the math for this that I can't tell you whether or not a 3.3k ohm resistor would work or not. It wouldn't hurt to try it though as a higher resistor would lower the voltage supplied to the dash. The worst it would do is not turn the tpms light off. All I can say is that 3.2k ohms works like a champ and has done so for about 7 years.
 

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The default condition for the tpms light in the dash is on (i.e. If it does not receive any voltage input the light comes on). In order to turn the light off you have to supply approximately 4 volts to the dash through the light blue wire. The yellow wire is a constant 12 volts. Connecting the resistor and diode to it reduces the voltage to the level required to turn off the light. I hope that explains the reasoning well enough. It has been about 7 years since I did this mod and I don't remember the exact numbers but that is the reasoning. It's still working great for me and I have never had any issues with dealerships/inspections/tire changes etc.
The TPMS fault light came on in my '08 Tundra a couple months ago. I checked all the tire pressures and they were within a pound of recommended pressure. I soldered the resistors and the diode and hooked them up exactly like bstevens showed- viola, light is out. BTW, if anyone needs a 2.2k or 1.0k 4 watt resistor, I have 199 each left from the pack I had to order! Shoot me a PM. Then, if you send me a self- addressed, stamped envelope, I'll mail you what you need. Thanks again to bstevens for his great solution.
Randy
 

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BTW, if anyone needs a 2.2k or 1.0k 4 watt resistor, I have 199 each left from the pack I had to order! Shoot me a PM and I'll mail you what you need.
Randy
Thanks, Randy.

I received the resistors in the mail today.

Dave
 

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The TPMS fault light came on in my '08 Tundra a couple months ago. I checked all the tire pressures and they were within a pound of recommended pressure. I soldered the resistors and the diode and hooked them up exactly like bstevens showed- viola, light is out. BTW, if anyone needs a 2.2k or 1.0k 4 watt resistor, I have 199 each left from the pack I had to order! Shoot me a PM. Then, if you send me a self- addressed, stamped envelope, I'll mail you what you need. Thanks again to bstevens for his great solution.
Randy
We don't have a Radio Shack here. Sent you a PM.
Thanks
Jim
 

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I took both the upper and lower glove box out today looking for the TPMS computer...No Joy. Found the Denso AC Amplifier and a Panasonic positive ground box. Nothing else behind the glove boxes. So I am hoping someone here can post some current pictures of their 2nd Gen Tundra show the TPMS connectors and this mod.
Thank You
 

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Can anyone point me in the right direction of where the TPMS module is and the wire..I have already taken the glove boxes out and I believe the pictures and information offered is for the 1st Gen.
Thank You
 
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