Toyota Tundra Forums banner

Trailer Brake Installation 2010 CM

2K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  cwit 
#1 ·
I was just wondering what to look for in a good trailer brake controller kit. We are buying a toyhauler, and I need to put a trailer brake setup on the truck. It is a 2010 CM, I have the pigtail that came with the truck, is it a pretty easy install. Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Tony
 
#2 ·
Search it here and in the towing forum for 'brake controller'. Most buy the Prodigy or P3. There is a plug and play cable that you can buy with them so there is no crimping involved. I have the P3 and I like it. Here's are the parts I used:

Tekonsha P3 Proportional Brake Controller with Toyota and Lexus Adapter Brake Controller with Wiring 90195-3040P

I don't know if its the best site price-wise but I have bought 3 hitches (Z06, TL, IS350) from them over the years and a couple ball mounts and service has always been excellent.

Congrats on the toyhauler, I just picked one up myself and towed it work today as I'm heading out of town with it at the end of the day.
 
#5 ·
do any of the models come witha trailer brake controller? like the limited?
Not unless it is a dealer added item. They just have the pigtail for it (the ones with tow package).

I have a P3, and it works like a champ. The place where I bought my car hauler from had only seen one before mine. He set it up for me, but it was also so he could play with it and check it out.

 
#7 ·
My buddy and I both tow toy-haulers with our Tundra's. The prodigy P-3 does a terrific job making the electric trailer brakes mimic the hydraulic brakes on the truck. It also has good diagnosis screens and is very easy to read. If you buy the optional plug from Prodigy ($12-$15) wiring is a "snap". I also recommend the TRD red rear sway bar and a firestone ride-rite air bags (for a better ride). We really like the "Equal-I-Zer" brand tow hitch. I have the 1000 lb bars and Joe has the 1,200 lb bars for his.
They make a little noise on sharp corners, but NO SWAY on the Highway. 401 ft lbs of torque from the 5.7 liter v-8 is terrific!
We LOVE this set-up! But I know there are other good ones out there too.
Peacemakerpete
 
#8 ·
For anyone who mounted their BC in the center pocket.... Where's the best location to feed the wires over to the side panel? There is limited openings behind the center pocket to feed the plug over. Looking up from under the dash, my wire harness is REAL close if not right on top of some small gears (guessing for air vent damper control) and I'm a little concerned they might get pinched or interfere with those gears. -advice appreciated.
 
#10 ·
My buddy and I both tow toy-haulers with our Tundra's. The prodigy P-3 does a terrific job making the electric trailer brakes mimic the hydraulic brakes on the truck. It also has good diagnosis screens and is very easy to read. If you buy the optional plug from Prodigy ($12-$15) wiring is a "snap". I also recommend the TRD red rear sway bar and a firestone ride-rite air bags (for a better ride). We really like the "Equal-I-Zer" brand tow hitch. I have the 1000 lb bars and Joe has the 1,200 lb bars for his.
They make a little noise on sharp corners, but NO SWAY on the Highway. 401 ft lbs of torque from the 5.7 liter v-8 is terrific!
We LOVE this set-up! But I know there are other good ones out there too.
Peacemakerpete[/QUOTE

Can you really tell a difference with the sway-bar, I hear a lot of people talking about them, just wondering if it's a difference, towing and not towing?
 
#11 ·
I used the little cubby right in front of my shifter, Under the towhaul b utton.
Cwit,

Did you take off the panel around the shifter to feed the wires across behind the lower dash panel? I'd like to see how to remove those without busting anything. (Have yet to find how to remove this panel on here.) I mounted mine under the radio like Asian did, but if you look up under the dash, (to right behind the shifter), there are some white plastic gears just behind that panel. The wire harness is resting right on them. I want to get at it closer to zip tie them away so they dont get pinched, but cant get to it without removing more panels. I dont know what those gears do, but i figure over time could chew away at some of the wire insulation if I dont get them moved.
 
#13 ·


This is my setup in my 10 DC. I had to make the power wires a little longer to make it to the kickpanel. I left it hanging out a little bit because I have another truck that I switch the controller in and out of.
 
#14 ·
The whole panel pops out and then you can pop out the cubby. The harness is long enough to fit without cutting, kind of hard to get by supports. I do wish I could do pictures because if you have the floor shifter and your consol is in the forward position you can lay your hand on top of your shifter and reach the stop lever on the p_3.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top