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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well Laids, joke hey guys.

I want to start to run Synthetic in my 2001 tundra v8, but i dont know if i should. i have 77k on the truck and i want to run Synthetic in the engine and the tranny. I was going to go for the rearend but people say dont older version of the tundras dont like it.

If i do start to use Synthetic should i flush my engine and tranny before doing so? What does it take to flush what should i worry about what shouldnt i do. Going to run 5w30 Amsoil syn. And ATF Amsoil Syn for the tranny.

Thanks
 

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Toyota tranny fluid is syn...
I did mine at 70k miles at the dealer, just for peace of mind, everything was normal.

Rear, front diffs, and tcase, I put syn in myself.
 

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No worries about flushing with the engine oil. Just don't try to run super long oil change intervals the first couple of times. Run it for a couple of shorter 5k mile intervals, then go for whatever.

The rumors about the rear diff not liking synthetic are not true. Toyota said at the time that the Toyota synthetic was not recommended. I have been running the RedLine in mine for 30k miles with no problems. Other aftermarket synthetics are no problem. Do a search for the old threads. Use the 75W-90. It will help the gas mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys well guess i am going to spend $200 on fluids better then spending 20k on a new engine and tranny :)
 

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Well Laids, joke hey guys.

I was going to go for the rearend but people say dont older version of the tundras dont like it.

Thanks
Who are these people you are listening to?!?!?

People say a lot of things. Bleh.

NEVER EVER flush your engine. Simply switch to the oil of your choice. 5w30 is what Toyota recommends and it is wise to follow that direction.

Synthetics in the differentials and the transfer case is an excellent idea.
 

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Who are these people you are listening to?!?!?

People say a lot of things. Bleh.

NEVER EVER flush your engine. Simply switch to the oil of your choice. 5w30 is what Toyota recommends and it is wise to follow that direction.

Synthetics in the differentials and the transfer case is an excellent idea.
Toyota says to run 5dub30 because its energy saving, ie: thinner oil= less resistance= faster wear on internal moving parts.
 

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Toyota says to run 5dub30 because its energy saving, ie: thinner oil= less resistance= faster wear on internal moving parts.
I run Redline In my rigs and have for years. I used to run Castrol GTX before that. I always ran the recommended weights, except in one Datsun I had years ago. I built that motor for more performance and ran 20w50 in it. To be sure the oci were no better than any other. It was likely not beneficial at all.

I know of a person who did not run the recommended viscosity and lost a motor. Though I doubt it had anything to do with why the motor seized, it was why the manufacturer refused to replace it free of charge.

Following the Manufacturer's recommendations can be important.

As to oil and wear. I have analyzed Oil on my vehicles for years and my analysis findings has never ever supported your theory.

As an Operating Engineer I see Cat diesels run at full throttle in dirt all day 60 hrs a week with 250 hr OCI's. This is like driving 15,000 miles at full throttle in dirt. The Oil analysis on those does not support your theory either.

Sorry.

Run good oil and a good filter. Change it every 5 k. Extended OCI's are doable with synthetics and can cost less over time than 3k changes with dino oils.
 

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Who are these people you are listening to?!?!?

People say a lot of things. Bleh.

NEVER EVER flush your engine. Simply switch to the oil of your choice. 5w30 is what Toyota recommends and it is wise to follow that direction.

Synthetics in the differentials and the transfer case is an excellent idea.
From this forum I was told that the rear diffs in 00-02 Tundra MAY NOT like synthetic in the rear diff. It is because of the seals. If you replace them sure go ahead, put it in. I didn't put synthetic in my rear and it's been fine after my locker install.

Just a fair warning. Do some searches....
 

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I did not state a theory, rather an explanation as to why Toyota recomends the oil they do. i run 5w30 in my tundra and change oil every 3k miles with a toyota filter. BUT, in the race truck I run 20w50 because it lives its life at 3500-7000rpm's. And diesel engines are completly different than combustion engine so your analogy is usless.
 

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Ohh and Castrol in all my vehicles. systhetic is pointless IMO with changing oil every 3k miles.Now if i changed oil 5k+ miles i would definalty run sythetic just because viscosity breaks down slower.
 

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Diesel engine lubrication is no different than gasoline. There are bearings, fiction and and heat and they need lubed. cylinder walls experience the same thing. The theory is not theory, Analysis will tell you what is and is not in the oil.

Interestingly the post combustion components are not so different either, and short operating periods are just as detrimental to diesel oil health as gas oil health.

If you use good synthetic oil, you will find that at 15k miles the oil is still more than up to the task. The contaminants in it are not ready to continue, but the oil is.

I could go toe to toe with you as long as you like but I have experienced this myself and have thousands and thousands of hours of experience putting engines through the harshest work... Big construction companies routinely sample and test oil on all machines.

There is a lot of myth to oil, but it does not need to remain that way... http://theoildrop.server101.com/for...12&PHPSESSID=6jsrj21yiin6l8eriry87af8kp7atrn7
 

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No need to go toe to toe... its the internet.

Big difference between 4,000MAX rpm's vs. 7,000 rpm's. And total different oil between the two. But cool man.


My whole point was that its not a necessity to run the "recomended" oil. Its just to save energy(fuel). Whether it be diesel or gasoline.
 

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Max RPM's have nothing to do with it. Bearings have clearances between themselves and the journals and oil has to ride in there. Operating temps are similar while HP and torque do a lot of work. The clearances and bearings in any piston engine do not know what is burning in the combustion chamber.

Engineers design engine clearances with a viscosity in mind. There is nothing wear promoting about the manufacturer recommended viscosity. Certainly a slicker oil and a lighter oil can promote economy. It is what is considered optimum for the stock engine in the truck.

I'll reframe my initial point. If you value the warranty your engine has, run the recommended viscosity. Any problem at all can be blamed on anything the dealer wants, to get out of paying. Further, there is absolutely nothing lost whatsoever by sticking to what the engine was engineered to use.
 

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I would really enjoy seeing a dealership tell me what weight oil I have in my truck. What a joke. Especially if its bolwn up.

And rpm's Do make a difference, you cant compare heavy equipment to a Tundra. Diesel engines take a total different oil made for a different purpose. So like I said, you dont make sence.
 

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Well Laids, joke hey guys.

I want to start to run Synthetic in my 2001 tundra v8, but i dont know if i should. i have 77k on the truck and i want to run Synthetic in the engine and the tranny. I was going to go for the rearend but people say dont older version of the tundras dont like it.

If i do start to use Synthetic should i flush my engine and tranny before doing so? What does it take to flush what should i worry about what shouldnt i do. Going to run 5w30 Amsoil syn. And ATF Amsoil Syn for the tranny.

Thanks
SO how much is amsoil a Qt ATF and Motor Oil? No need for motor oil flush but tranny i would not wanta mix standard or synthetics!! just a issue with old oil mixed with new!! Does not do very much for me changing 4 qts now and 4 qts later then 4 qts a little later!! not the best of ideas if ya ask me!! the filters in the tranny can clog with small particals and a lotta people even Toyota Techs tell ya that no need in changing. That's cause they do not wanta take time to change cause if you pay them to do it they will just flush and not drop pan cause you will never know difference ! unless you scribe a couple pan bolts and catch them !! yes i have caught them and they wiggled a little but changed filter like i paid for them to do!! maid me wait extra long for work that was supposed to be done to start with, not polite to service manager when it happened either!! i have moved on just like him !! he no longer works their and the service he gave people i am surprised he lasted as long as he did!!:eek:
 
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