Toyota Tundra Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, I'm going to replace the main rear oil seal on a Tundra '06 4WD with a 4.7 L engine; never done this before but I am sure I can tackle it since I've done other major work on my truck before, I will have plenty of time to take off and put back together since it's not my daily rider. What I am looking for is some TIPS on the removal, I've looked under there and there are some screws on the top of the tranny that seem hard to get to. Any help/tips/do's and do not's will be greatly appreciated. By the way, I am planning on leaving the Transfer Case on to minimize work load. Thanks guys!! :ts: :tu:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,873 Posts
The bolts blocked by the tunnel are definitely hard to get to from the engine bay. I ended up disconnecting the transfer case cross member from the frame. This allowed me to tilt the transfer case/engine back in order for me to use a couple of long 1/2" extensions to remove those bolts. If I remember correctly, I did get 1 or 2 bolts removed/loosened from the engine bay. I'd suggest either removing these first or, if they are the last to remove, have a couple of bottom bolts snugged in order to avoid the transmission from separating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@ Dyogim, thanks for the advice. I was looking in the engine compartment last night and it appears those two bolts can be reach from there. I will definitely remove the cross member since it appears it has to be removed anyhow in order to drop the tranny with the TC attached to make things easier. I will also have a tranny jack under it while removing it so that it doesn't fall hard. I think i will go ahead and remove those two hard to reach bolts first then proceed with the rest. It'll be just me, myself and I working on it so it should be a interesting experience altogether.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
984 Posts
I have never done this on a Toyota and have only done this once before on a '68 Roadrunner when I was 18 years old at a gas station I worked at.

With this Mopar product I didn't take the tranny off at all, just the oil pan and the rear main bearing, then loosened up all the other main bearings.

This engine had a rope type rear seal that I removed from the rear main bearing cap. The owner of the gas station told me to put in a new bearing in the cap BUT to take a screw driver and actually scratch a V into it from the middle of the bearing towards the front of the engine. This way he said when the pressure builds up the oil is squirted back into the oil pan and not up against the rear main seal I just replaced. It worked and never leaked another drop there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Are you positive it's the rear main seal and not the valve cover gaskets leaking (which is much more common)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello SC T100, yes I am positive. I replaced the valve cover gaskets (both sides) less than a year ago, and I checked where the current leak is coming from, and it sure is coming from where the engine meets the tranny. I removed the access plate on the bell housing and put a small camera in there and confirmed the leak. At first I thought it was the camshafts seals but after checking closely it was not, there is zero oil coming from the top side, it's all at the bottom of the bell housing. I am planning on doing this repair either this weekend or next one. thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Glad that worked out for you Billy Bob, this truck it's a bit more complicated than your truck back in the day, lots of stuff has to come off the truck just to get to that $35 seal, frustrating but doable. I appreciate your comment though. I have watched several videos and read many write ups, not in this site but others and it's quite involved of a repair, but I am up to the task. I believe it'll take me a few days to get it done but i'll get it.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top