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TRD 4.7 S/C on 06 DC with VVTI *DYNO Results page 6 post #87*

*UPDATE!! Dyno results page 6 post #87*

Hey guys just thought I'd start a thread about installing the TRD S/C on a VVTI 2UZ. I have read here that they don't fit because of an air pump under the factory intake manifold. I was told that TRD may have used runner spacers on their prototype kits, and I know Csawyer? had one on his 06 DC before catastrophic supercharger failure.

I pulled apart my spare engine last night and did a little test fitting. The S/C will indeed fit with about a 3/4" spacer either under the runners or between the S/C mounting plate and the runners. Or you can remote mount the air pump (approx. 3/4" hose and extend the power and ground wires) and the S/C fits right down on the heads with no spacers needed. There is also a coolant hardpipe that may need a little massaging with a hammer, or I could try to source the 04 version. Where it bolts to the back of the engine it conflicts a little with the back pass. side runner on the S/C, but a quick touch with a die-grinder will fix that.

The pass. side fuel rail will fit with some spacers under the mounting studs on the S/C runners, and the drivers side has different spacing on one mounting tab, but I have a spare pass. side fuel rail that will fit work.

The studs for locating the manifold to the heads are too long for the S/C, so they will have to be replaced with shorter ones, or just swapped out with bolts.

It also appears that the 05-06 4.7's use the same t-stat housing that was supplied with the TRD kits.

For tuning I will be using a MAP-ECU2 I got from Gadget at URD. I'll use the stock primaries, and run the 2 60lb/hr (630cc) 9th and 10th injectors on a separate fuel system. I plan to fabricate a small 2-3 gal tank in the engine bay, and use a Toyota MR2 fuel pump to supply fuel pressure. I have not decided what fuel to use, but it needs to be compatible with the cats, and the Toyota wideband O2 sensors. So probably 104 octane racegas or E85 with upped fuel pressure.

A front mount intercooler will be built in the future, along with some custom plenums, that will bolt on in place of the TRD plenum. Attached pics are of the mock-up install on my spare engine. And of the "smog pump" that needs to be relocated.

I'll get before and after dyno numbers as well as A/F info. I'll update as I progress.
 

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Very very nice!! Finally someone with balls to tackle this... Please keep us updated. My dad has a 05 dc and he wants it to have the same # of horses as my 5.7 :)
 

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Map-ECU2 is here from URD, I added it to the pile of parts I have to install. I'll get the ECU installed first and make sure everything is happy, then I'll get the fuel tank/lines built, and install the S/C last.
 

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sweet! what's that other gizmo in the valley that looks like a galvanized oil filter? i like your idea of just moving the hair dryer out of the valley and extending the wiring instead of using spacers. it just feels like the right approach from your description.

how does that extra 9th and 10th injector set up work? i've seen it mentioned around here before and i'm not familiar with it.

is there not a way to simply install a larger fuel pump in the tank instead of the mr2 set up under the hood? i know there is not a lot of aftermarket products for our gen1's when it comes to upgrades like this. i wonder what the guys over at lexteme.com may know about it?

there is a plethora of aftermarket support for my 08 stang, so i just installed a gt500 fuel pump, 1 step colder plugs, and larger injectors. done deal. and i didn't need a bigger fuel rail. probably not that simple with the gen1's.

i am glad you started this thread. THANKS! :tu::tu:
 

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Map-ECU2 is here from URD, I added it to the pile of parts I have to install. I'll get the ECU installed first and make sure everything is happy, then I'll get the fuel tank/lines built, and install the S/C last.
I hope you are going to set everything up for closed loop tuning as well. If not just a heads up from personal experience.

You will need to get the 3 wire harness so you can run the 2 ( Bank 1 , Bank 2 ) front O2 sensors through the MAP-ECU2 to modify the O2 voltages in the O2 adjust section of MAP Cal V3.1. That or running the O2 sensors in parallel through one. Gadget mentioned something about doing that to me. Ask him about it. And don't believe him if he tells you , you do not need to modify closed loop. He's.... Wrong, if he tells you that. I was told over and over the Tundra didn't need it and he doesn't do that on other Tundras. We are the ones with the Tundra and see what it does. And I can tell you I build boost at 2000 rpms making 2-3 lbs. and at 2400 rpm's I'm making 4-5 lbs still in closed loop at times depending on the LOD percentages (62-73 and above are closed loop portions at specific rpm's) and part throttle positions. I never saw it hit open loop in all of 30 seconds (boost levels explained above) of watching the Scan Gauge II and my TRD Boost gauge which are all accurate as seen on a recent Dyno tuning session.

Soo....overall, You will be hitting/making boost while you are in closed loop of the OBDII system. Get the wire hookups from Gadget. The O2 adjust for your 06 and the wiring diagrams or the rest of the MAF, TPS, power, ignition timing , ects hook-ups.

Have you figured out what plumbing you are gonna use?

I used some Earls' Plumbing 12mm x 1.25: 6AN fittings (The blue ones)
I also got a fuel pressure regulator so it can assist in modifying the pressure If I need to for my 410cc injectors if I run out of adjustment with the stock MAF sensor. I suggest doing so as well if you aren't going to use the stock injectors with the 9th and 10th injectors.

If you have questions further on , be sure to ask.
 

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Just looking at the pictures..:D .. close up those intake ports... and clean up the dirt with some compressed air in there. That's dangerous with all that dirt around. Even if it is a spare engine.

Cool to know you're thinking of using E85.. I was just thinking of setting mine up to use it as well since I noticed a local gas station carries it. I can supply more than enough fuel with 8: 410 cc injectors and 2: 650cc injectors if I need the extra fuel. A/F ratios need to be about 6.8 -7.4 under WOT with E-85. And 103-105 octane should make it so we can use much more timing instead of taking out 14 degrees in places and up to 20 on the top end of the rpm range. The stock timing at around 4800 and above is up to 43 degrees:eek: and with 93 octane I was seeing detonation at anything above 25. So look for 18-24 degrees to be the safe range with the supercharger under boost.

Are you going to install any wideband O2 sensor(s) and maybe even an EGT sensor when looking for the correct ignition timing modification and A/F ratios to make safe reliable power? I would. As you want the right timing and EGT's so there isn't any detonation. Too much timing is obviously bad but so is too much timing retard as it raises the EGT's. I haven't installed the 5 grand worth of parts, plumbing, and electronics, software, and sensors. The dyno session was starters to figure out A/F ratios, and what effect the timing modification has. Going for big power next.
 

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sweet! what's that other gizmo in the valley that looks like a galvanized oil filter? i like your idea of just moving the hair dryer out of the valley and extending the wiring instead of using spacers. it just feels like the right approach from your description.

how does that extra 9th and 10th injector set up work? i've seen it mentioned around here before and i'm not familiar with it.

is there not a way to simply install a larger fuel pump in the tank instead of the mr2 set up under the hood? i know there is not a lot of aftermarket products for our gen1's when it comes to upgrades like this. i wonder what the guys over at lexteme.com may know about it?

there is a plethora of aftermarket support for my 08 stang, so i just installed a gt500 fuel pump, 1 step colder plugs, and larger injectors. done deal. and i didn't need a bigger fuel rail. probably not that simple with the gen1's.

i am glad you started this thread. THANKS! :tu::tu:
The galvanized looking gizmo is just a valve for the air system, it has a pressure sensor mounted to it, as well.

The 9th and 10th injectors have their own little fuel rail and damper, with a stock 12x1.25mm banjo connection. They bolt to the back of the SC and spray into the SC inlet. it's a pretty simple set-up, but should be effective, since it blows through the SC. Gadget mentioned the fuel helps to seal the rotors a little.

Bigger injectors and pump would be pretty easy, but then I'm stuck with only one fuel and no ability to run more octane without filling the main fuel tank, then whenever I'm off boost the additional octane is just being wasted. Also I risk causing more issues with the OBDII system. ANd I really don't want to ditch the stock ECU, then vehicle inspections get more difficult.

With a secondary fuel system, I can have the best of both worlds, 87 octane pump gas, and occasionally fill up the secondary fuel tank with E85, or some type of race gas. Gotta be careful with the racegas though, as most stuff over 104 octane is leaded and will coat the o2 and cats with lead eventually and make them useless. The stock injectors look to be pretty standard 11mm top-feed injectors, and I suspect there are tons of options out there for replacement if you want to go that route. And fuel pumps should be pretty easy to upgrade too, other than having to pull the tank.
 

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I hope you are going to set everything up for closed loop tuning as well. If not just a heads up from personal experience.

You will need to get the 3 wire harness so you can run the 2 ( Bank 1 , Bank 2 ) front O2 sensors through the MAP-ECU2 to modify the O2 voltages in the O2 adjust section of MAP Cal V3.1. That or running the O2 sensors in parallel through one. Gadget mentioned something about doing that to me. Ask him about it. And don't believe him if he tells you , you do not need to modify closed loop. He's.... Wrong, if he tells you that. I was told over and over the Tundra didn't need it and he doesn't do that on other Tundras. We are the ones with the Tundra and see what it does. And I can tell you I build boost at 2000 rpms making 2-3 lbs. and at 2400 rpm's I'm making 4-5 lbs still in closed loop at times depending on the LOD percentages (62-73 and above are closed loop portions at specific rpm's) and part throttle positions. I never saw it hit open loop in all of 30 seconds (boost levels explained above) of watching the Scan Gauge II and my TRD Boost gauge which are all accurate as seen on a recent Dyno tuning session.

Soo....overall, You will be hitting/making boost while you are in closed loop of the OBDII system. Get the wire hookups from Gadget. The O2 adjust for your 06 and the wiring diagrams or the rest of the MAF, TPS, power, ignition timing , ects hook-ups.

Have you figured out what plumbing you are gonna use?

I used some Earls' Plumbing 12mm x 1.25: 6AN fittings (The blue ones)
I also got a fuel pressure regulator so it can assist in modifying the pressure If I need to for my 410cc injectors if I run out of adjustment with the stock MAF sensor. I suggest doing so as well if you aren't going to use the stock injectors with the 9th and 10th injectors.

If you have questions further on , be sure to ask.
Gadget did mention the Closed loop addition, and if I needed it to let him know. I'm not sure exactly what I'll need as I have never messed with an OBDII vehicle before. All my experience is with Turbo MR2's, and we just swap out the ECU for an Autronic, or Apexi PFC and don't look back.

I don't plan to adjust anything on the stock injectors, just add additional fuel where I'll need it, whether it's in closed loop or open loop, the additional injectors should not care. Will the stock ECU start to fight me if I try to run richer than 14.7:1 in closed loop?
What is LOD percentage?

I'll use a little -6 stuff for the secondary fuel system, and an MR2 FPR. I can mod it if I need more secondary fuel. The primary fuel will stay stock, other than referencing the stock FPR to a vac/boost signal, instead of atmospheric pressure. 410's at 42psi should be enough for a little over 500rwhp at 42psi base pressure. From what I gather, the stock injectors are just barely enough for stock hp at stock base pressure.
 

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Just looking at the pictures..:D .. close up those intake ports... and clean up the dirt with some compressed air in there. That's dangerous with all that dirt around. Even if it is a spare engine.

Cool to know you're thinking of using E85.. I was just thinking of setting mine up to use it as well since I noticed a local gas station carries it. I can supply more than enough fuel with 8: 410 cc injectors and 2: 650cc injectors if I need the extra fuel. A/F ratios need to be about 6.8 -7.4 under WOT with E-85. And 103-105 octane should make it so we can use much more timing instead of taking out 14 degrees in places and up to 20 on the top end of the rpm range. The stock timing at around 4800 and above is up to 43 degrees:eek: and with 93 octane I was seeing detonation at anything above 25. So look for 18-24 degrees to be the safe range with the supercharger under boost.

Are you going to install any wideband O2 sensor(s) and maybe even an EGT sensor when looking for the correct ignition timing modification and A/F ratios to make safe reliable power? I would. As you want the right timing and EGT's so there isn't any detonation. Too much timing is obviously bad but so is too much timing retard as it raises the EGT's. I haven't installed the 5 grand worth of parts, plumbing, and electronics, software, and sensors. The dyno session was starters to figure out A/F ratios, and what effect the timing modification has. Going for big power next.
Take a close look at the pass. side valve cover right behind the cam gear. I think spare motor may be a little ambitious, "core" engine is a little more accurate. The pass side gear took a direct hit in the accident, and shoved the cams back into the head, and locked them up, I'm sure every valve is bent as well. It's probably only good for the block and crank, and the various small parts that were not damaged...

I ran E85 in a couple of MR2's in the past, and it can be best described as cheap race gas. I made 60 more HP on E85 than pump 93, at 25psi, vs. 17 psi on 93 pump. With a wideband o2 sensor I just tuned for gasoline AFR's which was about 30% more fuel than I needed with Gasoline. One problem with E85 is the ethanol content, it can vary, and when it is low like E70, you loose all the octane benefits. There are ways to verify ethanol content, and if I go that route I'll just stockpile a 55 gal drum of the good stuff, or get some E99 from VP and run that instead.

What boost levels were you seeing detonation with 25 deg. advance? what fuel?

I have a PLX wideband , and the wideband on the dyno. You are absolutely right about ignition timing, too much is a bad thing, but not many people realize that too little can be just as harmful.

Do you have a built bottom end? how much power are you shooting for?

Here's my MR2 I built a couple of years ago: Scott 91T MR2
I only need one fast car, the tundra I just want to experiment with. Not really planning big power unless the bottom end lets go and I am "forced" to upgrade. :)
 

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The galvanized looking gizmo is just a valve for the air system, it has a pressure sensor mounted to it, as well.

The 9th and 10th injectors have their own little fuel rail and damper, with a stock 12x1.25mm banjo connection. They bolt to the back of the SC and spray into the SC inlet. it's a pretty simple set-up, but should be effective, since it blows through the SC. Gadget mentioned the fuel helps to seal the rotors a little.

Bigger injectors and pump would be pretty easy, but then I'm stuck with only one fuel and no ability to run more octane without filling the main fuel tank, then whenever I'm off boost the additional octane is just being wasted. Also I risk causing more issues with the OBDII system. ANd I really don't want to ditch the stock ECU, then vehicle inspections get more difficult.

With a secondary fuel system, I can have the best of both worlds, 87 octane pump gas, and occasionally fill up the secondary fuel tank with E85, or some type of race gas. Gotta be careful with the racegas though, as most stuff over 104 octane is leaded and will coat the o2 and cats with lead eventually and make them useless. The stock injectors look to be pretty standard 11mm top-feed injectors, and I suspect there are tons of options out there for replacement if you want to go that route. And fuel pumps should be pretty easy to upgrade too, other than having to pull the tank.
it all makes perfect sense now. i am running a 93 octane tune. have been considering getting her tuned for a 91 octane as well just in case i can't find any 93. then i can switch tunes with my handheld as needed. right now, traveling out west is forbidden.

took a look at your mr2 also. you did a beautiful, beautiful job. quite a sleeper looking at her from the front end. when i look at the exhaust, if i didn't know what was under the hood, i'd be second guessing myself. you'd teach my stang a lesson or two with that one!

best of success with your install!
 

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it all makes perfect sense now. i am running a 93 octane tune. have been considering getting her tuned for a 91 octane as well just in case i can't find any 93. then i can switch tunes with my handheld as needed. right now, traveling out west is forbidden.
What are you tuning with? Do you have an S/C?

took a look at your mr2 also. you did a beautiful, beautiful job. quite a sleeper looking at her from the front end. when i look at the exhaust, if i didn't know what was under the hood, i'd be second guessing myself. you'd teach my stang a lesson or two with that one!
Thanks! It took 2 years for me to finally find the time to get it finished, I spend all my time working on other peoples MR2's. It turned out just like I was hoping it would. 400RWHP on pump gas (17psi), and a little over 500 on Q16 (32psi). Yours wouldn't be the first Stang that got a surprise. ;-)
 

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What are you tuning with? Do you have an S/C?
i have a rotrex supercharger on the stang. similar design as a turbo only it's belt driven with a planetary gear system instead of the exhaust driven. so it doesn't build up heat like a turbo. it brings on the power quicker than a turbo but not as fast as a twin screw. not many of them around these days. it came with a boxed program that was set up pretty rich. it is custom tuned and loaded in and out of the ecu via xct3 handheld. pretty simple simon stuff compared to what you are undertaking. the aftermarket support for mustangs is phenomenal. have you driven a ford lately? or should i say driven by one lately? HA! looking forward to you getting her done here.
 

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Gadget did mention the Closed loop addition, and if I needed it to let him know. I'm not sure exactly what I'll need as I have never messed with an OBDII vehicle before. All my experience is with Turbo MR2's, and we just swap out the ECU for an Autronic, or Apexi PFC and don't look back.

I don't plan to adjust anything on the stock injectors, just add additional fuel where I'll need it, whether it's in closed loop or open loop, the additional injectors should not care. Will the stock ECU start to fight me if I try to run richer than 14.7:1 in closed loop?
What is LOD percentage?

I'll use a little -6 stuff for the secondary fuel system, and an MR2 FPR. I can mod it if I need more secondary fuel. The primary fuel will stay stock, other than referencing the stock FPR to a vac/boost signal, instead of atmospheric pressure. 410's at 42psi should be enough for a little over 500rwhp at 42psi base pressure. From what I gather, the stock injectors are just barely enough for stock hp at stock base pressure.

Do Closed loop tuning, it is required. Its needed to change the 14.7 air/fuel ratio under boost levels.

Also you are gonna find out the 9th and 10th injectors are just a band-aide. They ran the truck way rich because it has big time un-equal fuel distribution. Take a look at the top of that Plenum for the supercharger unit and tell me that works well. At times my truck runs great. And at times a fast shift with my IPT transmission mod, the rpms rising faster than normal , going up a steep hill with engine Load (LOD) and there is no time for the fuel to spray through the rotors on the back half of the supercharger unit up to the top of the manifold and equally into all intake runners all the time. Even at 10.8 air fuel ratios and massive timing taken out the truck still detonates whenever it feels like doing so when you think everything is great and you're having a good time. And my EGT's are not too low or too high. It just the fuel isn't equal.

I am now running 10.8 air/fuel ratios as determined by the dyno session. I got the 8 injectors so I know its going to always be equal per cylinder since they're 3rd gen 4 hole convex Bosch injectors offer +/- 1% fuel trims. When looking on my OBDII AutoEnginuity scanner I was seeing fuel trims up to 10 ,14% when the auxilliary injectors come on. the entire ECU freaks out and there is nothing you can do about it since you start to max out the stock injectors and the 2 then are needed. My stock injectors were tested, cleaned, and flow tested prior to my supercharger install and had a 2-3 % +/- accuracy .

Also there is no way 410cc inectors can support 500 rwhp. That exceeds the 80% duty cycle maximum. The LS3 is using 62-72 lb injectors to reach 500- 600 rwhp. Anyhow.. I don't know what method you are using to figure that out. Stock injectors are 225-270cc's maximum for the 03' - 04' Tundra motors. And the 9th and 10th are 650cc's each. I have mine both turning on at up to 70-75 % duty cycle on the Unichip fuel map currently under 7psi of boost at WOT for up to 10.8 A/F ratio (11.5 - 11.8 at 4-6 lbs boost) while referencing boost to bump up the fuel pressure while maxing out the stock injectors. 410cc's at 43psi are good for : 8 - Toyota 4.7L Supercharged Bosch 410cc Fuel Injectors: eBay Motors (item 350316227056 end time Jun-11-10 22:07:05 PDT)

Here is the calculator I used when picking injectors: RC Fuel Injection . I used .60 brake specific fuel consumption, 80% duty cycle and 414 crank HP. And it comes up with:..... 410cc

Stealth 316 - Injector Duty Cycle Calculation : Another one I used in determining the 8 injectors for the roots type Supercharger.
 

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Thanks for all the info. I'll get the sensor adjust module on the way.
I see what you mean about the additional injectors, and uneven fuel distribution. That is a concern, especially if the stockers won't support much more than the current N/A HP. Are you getting audible detonation? Or are you watching the stock knock sensors?

From your description even with 410's and the 650cc secondaries at 75% DC and 10.8:1 AFR your getting detonation. So some cylinders are plenty rich and others are dangerously lean. That's not good. Hmmm I may need to re-think my fueling strategy. Oh, what kind of timing are you running when your getting detonation? Does retarding it further help any? I was told to pull 3/4-1 deg. out for every pound of boost. Have you been retarding it more than that?

Have you tried cranking up your duty cycle a little, or raising the base pressure and see if you can push more of the fueling to your primaries? then the uneven-ness will be less noticeable maybe.

BTW, I figure available Rear wheel HP for an injector at 100% DC. Most injectors can be run right up to 98% without issue. At 100% DC the 410's can make 516rwhp at 42psi base pressure (at 11.8:1 A/F). So your right at 80% you won't be quite to 500, and asking for richer AFR's will drop the available power as well.. RC's injector sizing has always been very conservative, and they ARE in the business of selling injectors. ;-)

I just ran some 1100cc injectors on an MR2 right up to 98% DC and made 680RWHP. Using the formula we developed after years of tuning MR2's says I should be able to make 693rwhp. I take the injector size in cc's and multiply by .63, that will give you the whp for a 4 cylinder, which is what we usually deal with. I don't usually size injectors to be running at 100%DC, I'm just saying it IS possible.
 

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Thanks for all the info. I'll get the sensor adjust module on the way.
I see what you mean about the additional injectors, and uneven fuel distribution. That is a concern, especially if the stockers won't support much more than the current N/A HP. Are you getting audible detonation? Or are you watching the stock knock sensors?

From your description even with 410's and the 650cc secondaries at 75% DC and 10.8:1 AFR your getting detonation. So some cylinders are plenty rich and others are dangerously lean. That's not good. Hmmm I may need to re-think my fueling strategy. Oh, what kind of timing are you running when your getting detonation? Does retarding it further help any? I was told to pull 3/4-1 deg. out for every pound of boost. Have you been retarding it more than that?

Have you tried cranking up your duty cycle a little, or raising the base pressure and see if you can push more of the fueling to your primaries? then the uneven-ness will be less noticeable maybe.

BTW, I figure available Rear wheel HP for an injector at 100% DC. Most injectors can be run right up to 98% without issue. At 100% DC the 410's can make 516rwhp at 42psi base pressure (at 11.8:1 A/F). So your right at 80% you won't be quite to 500, and asking for richer AFR's will drop the available power as well.. RC's injector sizing has always been very conservative, and they ARE in the business of selling injectors. ;-)

I just ran some 1100cc injectors on an MR2 right up to 98% DC and made 680RWHP. Using the formula we developed after years of tuning MR2's says I should be able to make 693rwhp. I take the injector size in cc's and multiply by .63, that will give you the whp for a 4 cylinder, which is what we usually deal with. I don't usually size injectors to be running at 100%DC, I'm just saying it IS possible.
Oh.. it was audible.. Also Gadget doesn't prolly know that the Tundra runs super crazy ignition timing. I know he said he's tuned a couple but I don't understand his methodology. Its all over the place. Depending on the LOD # (Load) , the RPM its at at the time, ect. At 4800-5200 rpms the timing is 38-43 degrees depending on what it wants to do with the knock thresh-hold on anti- knock with the Stock ECU. You cannot just pull 7-10 degree and call it good right there. Not on the top End especially around 3800rpms and above. I am pulling up to 14 degrees on the top end to get it down to 24 degrees as seen by my Scan-Gauge II. I have the Auto-Enginuity software on my laptop but its easier to watch the little screen on my dash. It would be the same regardless. But as the ECU tries to adjust to knock-thresh holds it puts more in when the ECU feels like it can get away with more while adding fuel or taking it out, ect. And at 25 degrees it will start to ping. I had it detonate one night at 110 mph ( I have 33's ) when the timing reached 25 degrees advance. I was going up a pretty good hill too though. Auxiliary injectors are un-safe PERIOD. Unless.... they are secondary: direct port to each cylinder on top the primary fuel system/stock injectors. Thus giving you a total of 16 injectors. 8 original ones and 8 supplemental.

Also I found out recently that the Volant Cold-Air Intake ( I put an Amsoil Air Induction nano-fiber #EAAU3560 Filter on it) . This works better than the stock air box with a brand new stock filter or the Amsoil nano fiber filter for the stock box. It now pulls more air in being it has a 3.5" Intake tube vs. The stock one that is 3". Since there is more air to compress there is more boost available too. I now see 7psi at 4200 rpm's instead of at just 5000 rpm's. Boost is built up faster and stays longer as well. Everyone now knows I have a supercharger on the truck as the whine is over 3 times louder with the Volant intake vs the stock airbox. It turns heads. And everyone wants to see under the hood. Or.... know where they can get one for their buddy that is asking them to ask me. That's why I started posting up in the classified ads here and telling them to go online and I'd post them up here as I find them.

Denso IK22 plugs I don't like either. They foul up. And the porcelain has carbon swirl marks on it where in other spots its cleaning like it should. I tested this on over 3 sets of plugs. Everytime its the same thing. I got NGK Iridium Heat Range 7 that is identical to the IK22's and . I have not changed a single thing. And they do not do the swirl thing and having the electrode cold on one side.

Also I don't have the 410cc injectors on yet. I was mentioning stock injectors with the 9th and 10the with the duty cycle of both with the 8 injectors left stock. I also don't know what cylinders are running leaner than others, while others richer since I don't have wideband 02 sensors on each of the 4 JBA primaries on each bank. I only watched my fuel trims do erratic changes as well as the O2 sensor voltage freak out. The Uni-Chip is tuning closed loop as well as turning on the 2 injectors on the back half. I also pull the plugs and see of the 4 sets how they are un-equal due to the swirl marks. Carbon on some outer parts of the ground strap, others cleaner burning. Some tannish in color. And I have cut an entire set down (Cutting the threads off down to the porcelain) to see the inner fuel ring and that proves on WOT the mixture. Some were lean with almost no ring. I found out on The passenger side the inner cylinders get leaner and the front and rear cylinders get more fuel. That's why even Gadget says to run it no leaner than 11.0:1 A/F ratio. Anyhow.. I have the 410cc injectors to allow me run 11.5 - 12.5 A/F ratios and run slightly lower fuel pressures. The stock fuel pump functions better and flows more with lower fuel pressures. Any fuel pump does. I won't be referencing the supercharger intake plenum to the Aero-motive fuel regulator either since I don't want 48-52 psi (stock is 38 -44 psi. ) in the fuel system. I am looking for 35-38 psi. This will aide in the tuning.

I monitor knock with my ears and also with the Auto-Enginuity software, the Enhanced Toyota OBDII code software. It reads everything on the PCM/ECU, ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
James,
Awesome info, thanks. That explains a lot.
Looks like bigger primaries are the only right way to go. That or 8 secondaries aiming at the top of the runners, like you mentioned.

Never saw the Auto enginuity stuff before, that is cool. So is the Enhanced Toyota Expansion necessary? Or will I be able to watch knock sensors, and a/f sensors without it?

When are you going to upgrade your injectors? Oh and what kinda power are you making with your current tune? I'm assuming your running it on a non-VVTI engine?
 

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James,
Awesome info, thanks. That explains a lot.
Looks like bigger primaries are the only right way to go. That or 8 secondaries aiming at the top of the runners, like you mentioned.

Never saw the Auto enginuity stuff before, that is cool. So is the Enhanced Toyota Expansion necessary? Or will I be able to watch knock sensors, and a/f sensors without it?

When are you going to upgrade your injectors? Oh and what kinda power are you making with your current tune? I'm assuming your running it on a non-VVTI engine?
No problem.

I got the Toyota Enhanced because it reads everything. It was necessary to get it to read/pickup all the sensors. There are a lot of things it reads. It can watch the knock sensors. And you can see the voltage signal from the o2 sensors as you will tune with the MAP-ECU2 to see if its adjusting it, and not just watching the air/fuel ratio at a particular RPM. This will help in adjusting the O2 adjust cells in Map Cal V.3.1.3 faster as you figure out what voltage is what A/F ratio. Same with the MAF signal , As you will be able to see the MAF voltage, and a break down of the lbs/per min of air. All this aides in the tuning.

I definately suggest doing the 8 secondary fuel option for your truck. The MAP-ECU2 can do this I believe to control the injectors using the 3 Switched outputs in parallel. Skip out on the 9th and 10th injectors. Whether its the methanol/ E85, or race fuel... It'll be more reliable and you will be able to keep the air intake charge down inside each cylinder. The hot compressed air will cool down dramatically with methanol, E85, or the race gas. Tap into the side of the supercharger upper plenum you took off and put an extra one or two 1/8" NPT threads on there. I did on mine so I get to see the Intake temperatures. I'll find out for sure what all that extra CC's of fuel getting sprayed on the rotors does for the air charge temps once and for all before my installation of the 8 injectors and after.

BTW.. I ran the truck tonight and it builds 7psi at 3900 rpms and above.:D The Volant Intake is much better than the stock choker air box. I tested it before and after. Intake temps are lower too. They would get up to 109 degrees with the engine idling for 5 mins with the stock air box and it being 65 degrees out. The Volant intake on the same day ( 15 min swap ) only went up to 85 degress after idling for 15 mins with the hood closed on both tests. I believe the Volant intake is better because of the thicker poly-ethlyene tubing, box, and it deflects the heat. And it doesn't absorb the heat. It stays pretty cool to the touch. I would of rayed it with one of those heat temp guns but I don't have one. And also because the heat isn't traveling down the intake tube from the supercharger plenum heating up the charge, the filter. ect as that all got hot on the stock air box. Especially the rubber. I did extensive testing. I suggest making that an addition to the supercharger unit as well. Get the Amsoil filter though. That provided oiled cotton gauze filter let in lots of dirt/dust. I only drove on the freeway and it was evident all over inside the 3.5" volant intake tube. And the MAF got dirty too. The Amsoil filter flows more, filters better too. I got a Hydrophobic Pre-filter as well for the air filter as well. Everything works great.

Get some Iridium NGK's Heat range 7 as well. You're gonna have to figure out though if you run the gap at .044" or whatever the VVT-i engine needs. Or to keep em the .032" gap

Haha... more info for ya.... Also I found out my engine at the very beginning didn't like the stock headers either. At least the supercharger didn't Its gotta breathe ya know... Get some aftermarket headers for sure. Put some free flowing exhaust on there as well with a True Y-pipe instead of that restrictive one that's on the stock system. Supercharged motors do not need restriction.

Also my first dyno session said 267 HP and 287tq on a Mustang (Real World Load Scenario) Dyno. I have a 4x4 and I was told there is a 28-30% drivetrain loss. I had major problems too. A slipping transmission with the IPT transmission valve body modification (get that done to the transmision too) I didn't install it right or it wasn't done right. I sent it back to John at IPT transmission and had him take a look at it. He said it was fine. But anyhow.. its fixed now. Also the timing is off and I'm running it really fat. The cylinders are now black. Before supercharging the cylinders were spotless. And even before the original dyno tune. So thats why I'm going back in to get everything fixed. I've changed alot on the motor since then too. It seems way faster now. And it'll get faster. Going back this Wednesday.

Gonna go back later to have all the -6AN fuel lines, fuel injectors, adapters, fuel pressure regulator, MAP-ECU2 , Bank 1 and 2: Innovate O2 Widebands with the XD16 digital gauge, and a Blue Sea 12 fuse block for all the accessories. I have the PLX Air intake sensor, PLX digital boost gauge, EGT probe/sensor, gauges, to install as well at their shop. So I can monitor/data log all the critical information to build big reliable power. I also picked up some Teflon 1/8" tubing, and some Neoprene 1/8" hose for the Map Ecu2 and the boost gauge. You gotta have a dedicated line for the MAP-ECU2 though. That's why I got the Teflon tubing (So it won't restrict the line) and the neoprene. I''ll use the neoprene just around the connections on the intake plenum barb fitting and on the ecu2 Map sensor. As you prolly know you cannot get Teflon tubing on the map sensor as its a nylon plastic and it would prolly break it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got the Map-ECU2 installed, and waiting. The Aux. fuel tank is about 80% complete, I have to add a top to it, weld on the mounting flange for the fuel pump, and figure out a fill cap. I found some level senders we had for an old aquamist kit, so I'll use that with a simple light on the dash so I know when I need more fuel. I may see if I can rig up the 4x4 light or something I'm not using for that.

The O2 adjust module is on it's way from URD. I need to get my PLX wideband installed, and then do some datalogging and see what kinda timing and fueling it runs without the S/C. I'll get a baseline dyno at that point.
 

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I got the Map-ECU2 installed, and waiting. The Aux. fuel tank is about 80% complete, I have to add a top to it, weld on the mounting flange for the fuel pump, and figure out a fill cap. I found some level senders we had for an old aquamist kit, so I'll use that with a simple light on the dash so I know when I need more fuel. I may see if I can rig up the 4x4 light or something I'm not using for that.

The O2 adjust module is on it's way from URD. I need to get my PLX wideband installed, and then do some datalogging and see what kinda timing and fueling it runs without the S/C. I'll get a baseline dyno at that point.
You are quick.

Cannot wait to see the power yours makes.

Pictures???
 
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