Toyota Tundra Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 toyota tundra 4.7L and Im looking for these parts. (ALL PERFORMANCE / UPGRADES please)

- Camshaft
- Rocker Arms
- Lifters (hydraulic NOT mechanical)
- Valver covers ( if possible, knowing that it would probably have to be custom )
- Crankshaft
- Intake and Exhaust valves

Ive looked on Summit, IPP, IPT, IPE, Jegs.... everywhere that I could think of, and ironically autopartswarehouse has 1.5 rocker arms for the 4.7 but the camshafts that are listed are universal fit? Im a bit lost, but im trying to raise the horsepower and im hopefully later incorporating either the supercharger (rare haha) or just getting turbos put on it. But for now i need Internal engine performance parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
Have you looked at lextreme?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Ttc performance. Get ready 2uz parts are high dollar. Or if your on tundra talk. Talk to cowboy he will hook you up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After looking at how much the separate parts that I would want added up, pretty much come up to the same price (off by a thousand or so) as a performance long block they are selling. Looking at all the stuff they offer is like putting me in a candy store, I want it all. Ha. I mean im planning to run twin turbo's on it in the future, but the way they sell their class IV motors out to be is that you cant run it without forced induction. So [email protected]#$. Any Ideas here as to whether I should Get the long block, or buy the parts separate?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
just get get with cowboy on tundra talk. Tell him your plans and he will set you up. Shortly I'm getting a piston and rod combo from him for a turbo build on my tundra
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
You may want to get yourself a service manual and familiarize yourself w/ the 2UZ motor before you go looking for parts. The valves are direct actuation, i.e. no rocker arms, no lifters (hydraulic or otherwise). also there are four camshafts .These are modern overhead cam engines, not 50 yr old Chevy pushrod technology
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,772 Posts
After looking at how much the separate parts that I would want added up, pretty much come up to the same price (off by a thousand or so) as a performance long block they are selling. Looking at all the stuff they offer is like putting me in a candy store, I want it all. Ha. I mean im planning to run twin turbo's on it in the future, but the way they sell their class IV motors out to be is that you cant run it without forced induction. So [email protected]#$. Any Ideas here as to whether I should Get the long block, or buy the parts separate?
I say... Buy a spare engine.
Tear it all apart.
Hone it.
If that cannot be done. Bore it over.
Order up some TTC Performance I-Beam Rods, they're on eBay.
1UZFE, 2UZFE, 3UZFE Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods - eBay (item 180628137340 end time Mar-20-11 13:28:12 PDT)

1uzfe / 2uzfe / 3uzfe Connecting Rods

Call Eric and talk to him about a package deal for the Engine rebuild.
You should go with the ARP bolts all through-out the engine
JE pistons with the TTC 2uz-stock spec I-beam rods (580g weight I believe). Bearings, etc.

The I-Beam connecting rods are a stronger rod than the H-beam Chevy modified style that Lextreme offers.
The JE piston is better than the Ross Piston as well.
The JE piston has the stock OEM piston specs where the Ross piston does not.
Just take a look and you'll see it for yourself.

Tundra / Landcruiser valve springs, titanium retainers - eBay (item 180636614047 end time Apr-06-11 12:27:06 PDT) << springs/retainers.

The rest of the items you can figure out based on your needs.
If you're staying a 4.7L instead of a 5.4L stroker.
There is NO NEED to upgrade the crankshaft.
Its living and staying strong in 1000+ HP motors,

Look for yourself and see on Toyota 1UZ-FE & 2UZ-FE V8 Technical and Performance Forums. << Ask over there for some CNC work. I think TTC is way overboard for pricing on the Head-work. I was seeing prices for around $2400 - $3300 for street-able - race ported/polished , flow tested, <<< charts provided showing the flow testing for the heads.

For superchargers:
You have these options:

A bullet supercharger kit
(Eaton 6th Gen superchargers) 1900cc. The new 5.7L Tundra engine is using the 2300 cc Eaton supercharger: 4 lobe 160 degree twist rotors. Its way More efficient than the 2000 - 2004 TRD supercharger that's available when they pop up every now and then.

Richmond supercharger kits (Whipple or Kenne Bell Style superchargers)

Or... The wimpy low boost M90 (1.475 Liter) TRD supercharger for the 4.7L
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,772 Posts
Here are the specs on the 2uz-fe rods:

TTC I-Beam Rods:

Center: 5.748"
BE Bore: 2.166"
BE Width: 0.901"
PE Bore: 0.866"
Weight: 580G

- Super strong I-beam design
- Material: Precision forged 4340 EN24 chromemoly quality steel.
- Hardness after quenching and tempering is HRC35-38.
- I-beam design offers the advantages of reduced weight without sacrificing strength.
- 2 piece forging for increased strength.
- Silicon bronze bushings for floating piston pins.
- Each forging is Fluorescent tested, magnafluxed and demagnetized.
- Special Doweled Cap for precision fit.
- Shot peened to relieve stress. - Fully CNC machined on all surfaces to produce the lightest and strongest rod.

Machining Tolerances:
Big End and Small End Tolerance: <= +/-0.00017"
Vertical, Parallelism and Distortion: <= +/-0.00018"
Center to Center Distance Tolerance: <= +/-0.001"
Sets weight matched to +/-1 gram.

These rods come with superior 8740 rod bolts installed for real strength. As an option, he can supply ARP 2000 or ARP CA625 for ultimate power goals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
You guys beat me to it, the heads are cam on bucket and the 2uzfe is a 'shim under' design. No rocker arms on the 4.7L. But from from what I'm reading, it looks like I can give you a good rundown. I just need to know what your ultimate goals are. I can work within your budget.

Thanks!

Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I tried sending Cowboy a PM but it looks as though he hasn't been very active lately. I am considering rebuilding my 4.7 as well and am looking for some advice. I haven't done much Motor work in the last 5 years and I def have not done any work on a Yota engine, so any advice would be great. I know I need pistons, rings, rods, gaskets, camshaft, a bunch of smaller items such as spark plugs, etc. Should I get new valves or will cleaning them with a wire bench brush be sufficient? I don't plan to bore the block out but would honing it out require any larger rings or will stock sized rings be alright? After the rebuild, I would like to have additional ponies, will the rebuild with new, stock parts give me more power since it will be like new or should I go to performance pistons, cam, etc. I read that the crankshaft will be just fine as is? Also, where is a reliable place, with relatively cheap prices that I could get these parts? Or even a rebuild kit?

Thank you in advance,
Ryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Did you ever get an answer? I have a 2004 4.7l, hat blew a head gasket and I am looking to rebuild, with min rebuild experience. Thx mike
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,772 Posts
Do a business look up of TTC Performance, FL
You'll find what you need this way.
Address & phone #
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top