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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the time has come to give the old Tundra a new lease on life.....I'm putting a 14-bolt w/ 4.88's & ARB in the rear, a Solid D60 up front, 4-speed Atlas (clocked to 0 degrees), full in-cab cage, and switching over to some TrailReady HD17 wheels.



 

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Goin 2 look sweet Jonathon :cool:, Garage Sale in the future?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've actually already sold both complete axles and the t-cases, so all I have left to sell are my (5) 17"x9" Allied steel wheels and the Staun beadlocks :cool:.
 

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I've actually already sold both complete axles and the t-cases, so all I have left to sell are my (5) 17"x9" Allied steel wheels and the Staun beadlocks :cool:.
I thought you said you were keeping the 60 center section and putting it up front?? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That was the original plan...until one of my friends offered to buy both axles, so the plan has now changed. My 14-bolt is currently being built and I am chasing down a lead on a partially built Solid D60 front axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You've used two or three different beadlock wheels now, why all the switching around? What worked and didn't?
Technically they all worked, the Staun's have been hands down the best so far, but since I have to buy new wheels to accomodate the new 8-lug pattern I figured I would give the TrailReady wheels a try.

The Stazworks were the mother of all wheels, but weren't too road freindly as far as balancing and were really heavy. But they are without a doubt one of the most bombproof wheels on the market.

The Allied beadlock wheels I had were ok to run on the road, but since the locking ring sandwiched the bead of the tire it was tough to keep them torqued against a rubber surface.

The new HD TrailReady wheels were ran on several of the UA rigs and they seemed to do really well. I like how the bolts for the locking ring are recessed so they don't get banged up nearly as bad.
 

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Nothing quite like the look of a Tundra with no axles! :tu: :D Can't wait to see it when it's done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good to know. How did the Staun install go?

Speaking of which, are they the 17x9 and narrower, or 17x9 and wider carcasses?
They are for 7"-9" wide rims. Install of the 1st one takes some time, after that they are pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got a little work done over the weekend, scraping (chiseling) that factory tar mat off the floorboard was a total beotch!!!!!! Got the interior about ready to lineX and start the cage build, still have to pull the dash sometime soon. Plan on going with two Mastercraft Baja RS recliners up front and one matching fixed in the rear, all mounted to the cage. Going with a tan LineX on the floor and back wall and will be leaving most of the factory interior out for good.

Also received a Saginaw (Cherokee) steering box that Tom Allen from PSC sent me to play with. As of now, the plan is to fab up a rectangular tube section with two bolt sleeves the same width as the frame rail and weld it to the top of the frame to catch the two upper mounting holes on the steering gear, then sleeving two more about mid-way up the factory frame to catch the two lower mounting holes. Even though the sector shaft is centered on the leaf spring, it appears that the box will be far enough forward that they won't hit.....hopefully :smokin:!

So far I'm leaning toward either Poison Spyder SpyderLocks or TrailReady HD17 wheels this time around.









 

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Got a little work done over the weekend, scraping (chiseling) that factory tar mat off the floorboard was a total beotch!!!!!! Got the interior about ready to lineX and start the cage build, still have to pull the dash sometime soon. Plan on going with two Mastercraft Baja RS recliners up front and one matching fixed in the rear, all mounted to the cage. Going with a tan LineX on the floor and back wall and will be leaving most of the factory interior out for good.
Yeah that stuff is just stupid annoying. Some just cracks off in sheets, but most takes a lot of time with a stiff spatula :rolleyes:.

It is so nice not having the carpet collecting grime, and the cab volume is so much larger without the bench in the back.

Got a louver die? You could make some real nice covers for those plastic vents...sandwich a filter in there and it'll be better than stock. The plastics ones stick out really far inside the cab...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good call on the vents Sean :tu:! I will start working on that since I've been trying to come up with an alternative for the plastic ones.
 

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Jonathon - how much sheet metal around the radiator support did you cut? Looking to see how much I'll need to remove. What else in the fender well (F&R) did you remove?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Jonathon - how much sheet metal around the radiator support did you cut? Looking to see how much I'll need to remove. What else in the fender well (F&R) did you remove?
So far I just threw it up there and it fit in place of the Toyota box (with the little bit I removed originally around the body mount for the Toyota box). So I don't think I will have to remove any additional material at all since it actually clears the radiator.
 

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With the new box, are still going to run the same steering shaft or are you going to part that out to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
With the new box, are still going to run the same steering shaft or are you going to part that out to?
Yeah, all I have to do is order a different Borgeson lower joint.
 
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