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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so it’s time to give the green tree some boost. I’ve got almost everything figured out. The only thing that I can’t figure out is where the heck to put the intercooler. If anyone has any ideas or where I can purchase a thin intercooler to put in the bottom grille please let me know. Also, does anyone know where to get a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator that will fit these engines. I really don’t want to use a universal one and make it fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #2

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Alright, so I compiled a list thus far of the turbo build. If anyone would want to chime in and see if I missed something please let me know.
 

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I found that RX-8 injectors seem to be a direct replacement with almost double the flow than the stock ones. if anyone has any other input as to why something on my list wouldn't work please just let me know. I'll be doing a full write-up when I get to put it on in late June. Thanks!
 

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I dont know much about unichip but I would contact AEM for a engine management. I've ran the AEM ems on a few of my cars and it made getting it tuned the easiest way possible.



Depending on the boost you plan to run. I would eliminate the cats to be extra safe otherwise the inside would just melt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The only reason why I would be running the Unichip system is that I would like to keep the factory ECU features and because it would be basically a plug and play system. I plan on only running about 5 psi max because I want my engine to be fairly reliable still. I've heard good things from Unichip and for a low boost setup, I think it will work fine. I do not plan to run cats because this will mostly be an offroad vehicle and in SC there are no inspections. I'm going from a 3-inch down-pipe, I think, to two 2.5 inch into a Flowmaster super 44 series dual in dual out. shouldn't have any restrictions on that setup and should sound pretty mean. The kit that I ordered appears to come with JBL stainless headers and I think I'm going to wrap them just to keep the temps down. Much easier to unwrap them later than to wrap them when they're installed if I don't like it. I think I'm going to stick with the factory fuel pressure regulator because I'm going with the bigger RX-8 injectors so I won't need the extra fuel pressure. If you have any other questions just let me know. Sorry for the late reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry that I haven't gotten back to it. We're just getting the concrete poured and getting the lift to do it. probably going to get it done in mid-July with the way things are going. I wound up going with the Unichip PNP kit for the Sequoia and just selecting the stock option because the map is going to be drastically changed anyway. I also got a turbo module to plug in with it and a boost solenoid that plugs into the turbo module. They don't make it very clear on their website but you also have to purchase a separate Uni-Tune Kit to tweak the map directly and to gain access to the entire system. Anyway just wanted to provide you with a little update.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright so I just got both the headers on. If you plan to not reuse the old manifolds then you actually don’t have to remove the motor mount to get the manifold off. All you need is a really long sawzall blade to cut the manifold off and get to the bolts from the top side. After you got the manifold completely off, then install the header. You can actually get to all the bolts with the new header design. Will attach some pictures once I get everything done. RX-8 injectors fit in perfectly btw and have a good spray pattern. They should be able to provide plenty of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So here is the final product. It turned out pretty good but there were some struggles along the way. I cannot confirm if all of these struggles were the result of me trying to fit a Tundra turbo kit on a Sequoia or if the kit had some downfalls. The first struggle that came up was trying to fit the crossover piece into the passenger side header. It seemed as though it was impossible to fit into the space available so naturally, I made more space with a big hammer lol. By denting the firewall a little bit, I was able to fit the passenger flange into the spot where it had to go on the header. I apologize by not taking many pictures as I went but I had a pretty strict deadline to make. The next problem that came up had to do with the crossover piece again. I couldn't fit both sides together at once because I couldn't go into the passenger side any further because the dipstick tube for the transmission and the power steering lines were in the way. I managed to heat the dipstick tube up enough to be able to bend it a little for the flange to match up with the passenger side header. The next problem had to do with the up pipe for the turbo. In order to fit the two flanges together, you have to loosen up the bracket holding down the power steering lines to the frame and bend them down so the flange can go over the top of them then take the return line and bend it up slightly so it can go above the flange then squeeze in the up pipe and have someone up top pushing it down while someone underneath put the clamp over the two flanges. Keep in mind it is very tight in this area and small hands are preferred lol. For some reason, the kit did not come with the bolts to attach the turbo to the flange. The turbo flange comes pre-tapped with 3/8 in. I had some rod laying around so I made that into some makeshift bolts that worked great. Then came the time to put the downpipe in. The best way to put it on and get the flanges matched up is to put the downpipe in and mount the turbo to the downpipe first then bolt it to the up pipe because the rear air conditioning lines were right in the way preventing the downpipe from rotating down enough for them to line up. I am about 99% sure you would have no problem if it was installed in a tundra as they do not have rear air conditioning lines. finally came the wastegate. I am telling you this right now they did not do the wastegate right. You have to drill out the top holes because for some reason they tapped both sides of the flange. you also have to get the top bolts because it didn't come with them for some reason either. I don't remember exactly what size they are but you can use the two bolts that they give you for reference to buy the top bolts. That brings us to matching up the flanges. Now remember how the downpipe couldn't go up on the bottom because of the AC lines, well that's where it bites you now. The only way to bolt both flanges up is if you start with the bottom one and press down with all your might to line up the top bolts. you have to start with the one closest to the firewall otherwise you won't be able to line up both of them. After everything was bolted up on the exhaust side I turned my attention to the intake side. I chopped the cold air intake into two pieces. One was for the vacuum lines and the other was for the mass air flow sensor as seen in my photos. this worked great with a 4" to 3" silicone elbow that I bought online but I didn't have a 3" 90 so I had to step it down to 2.5" for now. The 3" 90 should be coming in the mail today though. The intercooler piping kit mentioned in the list was exactly perfect for plumbing the intercooler. In order to fit the intercooler, you need to cut off the bottom brackets. They are just aluminum so it cut pretty easily. The only way I found to actually get the intercooler in there was to cut out the bottom grille. I know not the best option but I made it work because I have a lightbar that mounts there so I mounted the grille to the light bar. It is a simple 3" whole saw near the headlight (which will need to be taken off to get the hole saw in the right spot) in order to plumb the intercooler. I used a 45 and 90 to make the turn on both sides. I decided to mount the MAF sensor as close to the intake as possible to try and cut down on boost leaks and inaccurate airflow. I used that 2.5" to 3" silicone reducer to attach it to the 2.5" intercooler piping. The blowoff valve is hidden down on the driver's side in between 2 90s. To mount the MAF sensor was a little bit of a challenge. The wire leading to it was quite short so I had to take the bracket holding the main wiring harness off in order to get enough stretch out of the wire to mount the MAF sensor. Wiring the MAP sensor on the Unichip turbo module was actually a piece of cake but it DOES NOT come with a Molex connector required for the turbo module. Luckily I had some old computer parts lying around so I used those. All of the wiring directions are either online or in the manual that comes with the Uni-tune software. I tapped into the bottom star bolt on the oil filter to get oil pressure but after seeing how Lextreme did his teeing off of the oil pressure sensor would be easier than ordering a part or in my case buying and taping a bolt to fit adaptors to lol. For the return, I followed Lextreme's guide and drilled and tapped a barb fitting right underneath the crank pulley. Basically, that's it. If you have any other questions don't be afraid to post them. I'm going to get it dyno tuned sometime in the next few weeks so stay tuned for the numbers! Also, I will be updating the build list to reflect any parts bought to do the project. Also also I bought a Wideband O2 sensor because there was a convenient spot to put it in the kit and it will assist in tuning later.
 

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Make some video clips! Any future plans for a name brand turbo? I've seen some chinese turbos fall apart within a couple months
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah I plan on replacing this turbo once it goes but I’m in no hurry right now. Since I’m running such low boost it should be fine for now. Once I get the money I’ll change it out. I will post videos of the tuning and once I get it tuned.


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Looking good! What headers did you end up going with? Long tubes or shorties?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
They are the ones that come with the kit. Looks like JBA shorties.


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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Well we went to the dyno Monday. I have to say numbers are a little low but we could only get it up to 4psi. We tried every arrangement possible but seeing how we have about a million exhaust leaks I wouldn’t doubt that that is the reason why we couldn’t spool it up. I have to get the exhaust leaks fixed and then we can actually get some numbers from it. The numbers that I got were 230 rwhp and around 310 lb ft of torque. Not that great but for only 4 psi what can you expect. He also couldn’t go more than 3/4 throttle because it would just downshift like you wouldn’t believe. Man these transmissions like to downshift. If you know of any solution to keep it in third gear or to try and not make it upshift please chime in. On the way back home however I notice the transmission really didn’t like the extra power and wanted to slip really bad between the shifts. I plan on probably getting a shift kit for it to try and mitigate that. Eventually I will build it. If you know of any companies that can build a strong A341F please let me know. Anyway I will be taking vacation soon so it will be probably a couple of weeks before we can get the exhaust leaks fixed and get it back on the dyno. Until then I guess I’ll just be gentle with it lol. Btw the transmission is 168k and I don’t think it was well maintained but the fluid doesn’t smell that bad and is not dark.


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