No I mean like to force it in third and to get it to stop upshifting to second because the tuner couldn’t go wide open on it because it would always upshift
So, I got a manual shifter from RADesigns and am planning to hook it up. That should solve my problem with dynoing an automatic and it upshifting. The problem I have now is where is the world is the transmission control box. Is it integrated into the ecu? This weekend I’m installing the transgo shift kit. I decided to just go for the hot rod shift cause you only live once lol. Will post some updates when I get that done. So far the kit is great. Just have to fix my two header leaks then I can get it back on the dyno.
So, I got a manual shifter from RADesigns and am planning to hook it up. That should solve my problem with dynoing an automatic and it upshifting. The problem I have now is where is the world is the transmission control box. Is it integrated into the ecu? This weekend I’m installing the transgo shift kit. I decided to just go for the hot rod shift cause you only live once lol. Will post some updates when I get that done. So far the kit is great. Just have to fix my two header leaks then I can get it back on the dyno.
So I got the transmission shift kit installed. I went with the hot rod shift and I can tell you it honestly isn’t that bad. Shifts are quick and under power are nice and crunchy. Would definitely recommend this to be done on every transmission. Even on stock vehicles. Still planning on wiring up that shifter and getting it dyno tuned. Stay tuned!!!
installed the shifter today. Everything works as planned and I got my exhaust leaks fixed. I’m also attaching a picture of the pin out for our transmissions because it took me forever to find it. Everyone that I was finding was for the older style. Hope someone can use this information. Should be back up on the dyno soon.
Update: so I was using the Unichip to tune my engine but it has serious drawbacks that I didn’t consider. For instance: when I reset the battery to clear the check engine light so I can have traction control the stock computer goes haywire and goes super lean then flips the other way and goes super rich. Eventually it “learns” to go back the way it was but it is super inconvenient. Also I’m not able to take full control of the injectors that I have. One day it will be just fine running 11.5:1 then another day it might be 12.5:1 then it might just flood out the engine. The tuning is really at the control of the stock computer when you’re trying to run the Unichip in this configuration. Now I do think that if you just had simple maps for normal mods then this would be a totally viable option and I get why someone would want this. What I plan on doing from here is getting a MegaSquirt 3 and wiring it in parallel with the stock computer. This will give me all the benefits of a stand alone with the stock computer still able to control things like evap and the drive by wire system and other things that would be difficult if not impossible to do on the MegaSquirt. I have already finished mapping the pins for the injectors and coils to the MegaSquirt along with all of the necessary sensors. I have opted to go get a ford intake air temperature sensor because the stock one is found in the MAF sensor and doesn’t look easy to tap on to. I will update you all again when I buy the MegaSquirt and get it running.
Update: so I was using the Unichip to tune my engine but it has serious drawbacks that I didn’t consider. For instance: when I reset the battery to clear the check engine light so I can have traction control the stock computer goes haywire and goes super lean then flips the other way and goes super rich. Eventually it “learns” to go back the way it was but it is super inconvenient. Also I’m not able to take full control of the injectors that I have. One day it will be just fine running 11.5:1 then another day it might be 12.5:1 then it might just flood out the engine. The tuning is really at the control of the stock computer when you’re trying to run the Unichip in this configuration. Now I do think that if you just had simple maps for normal mods then this would be a totally viable option and I get why someone would want this. What I plan on doing from here is getting a MegaSquirt 3 and wiring it in parallel with the stock computer. This will give me all the benefits of a stand alone with the stock computer still able to control things like evap and the drive by wire system and other things that would be difficult if not impossible to do on the MegaSquirt. I have already finished mapping the pins for the injectors and coils to the MegaSquirt along with all of the necessary sensors. I have opted to go get a ford intake air temperature sensor because the stock one is found in the MAF sensor and doesn’t look easy to tap on to. I will update you all again when I buy the MegaSquirt and get it running.
Yesssss. Even with the bad tune it still is so much fun to rip. Honestly the only thing that has gone wrong so far has been the tune and keeping exhaust gaskets in this thing because they always want to rattle the nuts loose causing the gasket to blow out.
Yesssss. Even with the bad tune it still is so much fun to rip. Honestly the only thing that has gone wrong so far has been the tune and keeping exhaust gaskets in this thing because they always want to rattle the nuts loose causing the gasket to blow out.
It’s already been on the dyno twice but the Unichip would not let me get a clean run without throwing the computer into limp mode or running super lean. I will go back on the dyno when I get the MegaSquirt wired up.
It’s already been on the dyno twice but the Unichip would not let me get a clean run without throwing the computer into limp mode or running super lean. I will go back on the dyno when I get the MegaSquirt wired up.
UPDATE the oil pump has been slowly going out and I had been denying it thinking that it may be something wrong with the gauge but the inevitable happened. Oil pressure dropped when the turbo was pretty hot so it blew the seals on it. The next step would be to pull the engine and replace the oil pump. It will be a lot easier to pull the engine then to work in the engine bay so that’s what I’m going to do. While I have the engine pulled I can put forged rods in so I can boost more safely. Other than that I decided to switch to a mega squirt 3 xtra and had been loving it. So much easier to tune than the Unichip. I will update you again on how the build is coming soon.
I still don’t have a new turbo for it but I didn’t blow the oil pump. What was actually happening was that the turbo was heating the oil up so much that it made the oil so thin that it slipped past the seals on the turbo and I lost oil pressure. Imma get some more money soon so stay tuned for a new turbo and a new tune and some dyno results.
Ok. I finally got enough money to buy a new turbo. I went with a cx racing t4 ball bearing gt35 style turbo. 0.81ar on exhaust and 0.70 intake. This one should flow more because of the bigger exhaust housing while still spoiling quick with the ball bearings
this was a before and after tune. It made just about 300 wheel and 390 lbft of torque. And boy can you feel it. The shift kit that I put in there is too aggressive though causing me to brake 3 teeth off the ring gear. I swapped that out and now only do pulls in awd. If you have any more questions post them here. Also I’m going to try and fit a later style plastic intake with the variable length runner to improve the rpm of it and shift the torque curve further up.
2001 Sequoia 2WD Limited
Recently I have a fuel smell inside after it sits coming from the back seat. I don't have any fuel leaks on the ground, no strong fuel smell under hood near fuel rails, no fuel smell from under vehicle near tank or fuel lines.
Any idea what could cause this and where it...
Hello to anyone reading. Not sure how active this forum is but I'll post my build on here. I don't have Facebook or anywhere else to post it (Let me know if there is somewhere better).
The Story Begins
I've been looking for a camping vehicle. I'm sick of working on all my Chevy...
Hi everyone - I just recently purchased a 2003 Toyota Sequoia 4WD Ltd. with 200k miles. Definitely needs a little TLC but my only plans with it are to shuttle my friend and I on ski trips on the East Coast. I will post a build thread soon once I've taken care of a few things.
Anyways, I bought...
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-gFSER8qfZpx/p_151L2700/PowerBass-L2-700.html
This is the best option for replacement speakers for the front when removing the blown factory JBL 2 ohm ones and they are only $49.99 for the pair! The PB speakers fits flush in the factory location but the mounting...
VG2007 · updated 
Alonsowolstenholme · updated 
TRD-98TT · updated 
