[Toasted Coastie]

exactly

they're injection molded plastic, yes? seriously, i'd only buy that kit if i could get just the tube and rubber adapters...i can get my own fasteners and so forth, all i want is the tube. the tube itself i dont see costing more than 50 bucks, i suppose considering r&d costs and profit and whatnot maybe just maybe a hundred bucks. the unichip, at max gain, is about 30 bucks a horse. that same scale puts the worth of that complete intake kit (including filter) around 120-150 bucks, and there's no telling how much of that gain was the filter and is therefore similar to a k&n or trd drop in (which run 40-60 bucks). i suspect the high price is so it seems comparable to the "cold air" cone style kits, and some r&d recoup.

i'd consider the product if there were some data supporting the tube itself, not the tube and the filter, since the tube is the eye candy but i suspect the filter is what packs most of the punch, and a lot of us already have a filter.

that said, a raps goes for a hundred bucks and shows about the same gain. an underdrive pulley falls in or around the same category. i could justify going for the kit if there were some data to support the utility of the tube separate from any other modification, and if it were priced similar to other modifications providing the same benefits.

-sean

I just want the tube and adapters, I'm going to stick with the paper filter.

 

[Verndog]

they're injection molded plastic, yes? seriously, i'd only buy that kit if i could get just the tube and rubber adapters

I haven't read what material the tube is...but it's a coated metal tube not all plastic. I'll check that out later. If they are asking more then $150.00 tops for this kit IMO it's too much...given the filter is worth $50.00 like K&N or TRD.

I just put the stock filter back on...there is too much oil and I don't want MAF problems. As we have seen with TRD filter dyno results...I don't see much loss if at all, by going to stock filter.

I'm going to call my buddy Bob tonight about doing this...he actually suggested this when I showed him my TB cover a few months back...I didn't see the demand being worth it...so never persued...but now that we have some hard numbers...the interest may justify.

Also...let me take a moment to thank Tony (unichip tuner) for putting up with the many requests. If you look at pics...you can see we took the time to put the high volocity fan onto a shop smith and played with the angle while I pulled RAPS tube off and felt for best positive airflow to test. Also my play doh test....he thought I was nuts....but really knew I wasn't when this proved open loop comes at half pedal after testing. And this proves theory on hitting the floor with pedal likely just signals a small delay to keep drivetrain intact.....no more power is there.

I am thinking of making a billet pedal with adjustable stop to overide this safety feature :tu:

Kevin

 

[AC]

Intake Tube

I talked to my bender bud and he said "no problem" on the tube. I am going to e-mail him the picture of that other tube tonight and probably be at his shop Friday fer some r&d. It should be faily cheap. I think that the tube is the most important part of this. The fittings should be easy to find. Mass quantity is not an issue, small runs are ok.

 

[Toasted Coastie]

connections

I talked to my bender bud and he said "no problem" on the tube. I am going to e-mail him the picture of that other tube tonight and probably be at his shop Friday fer some r&d. It should be faily cheap. I think that the tube is the most important part of this. The fittings should be easy to find. Mass quantity is not an issue, small runs are ok.

you can find connecting parts here

 

[AC]

After looking more closely at mine, i'm not sure what would happen with that box that's connected to the factory model with all the hoses.

 

[Toasted Coastie]

After looking more closely at mine, i'm not sure what would happen with that box that's connected to the factory model with all the hoses.

3 hoses. Brass plumbing will do it. Home depot. I broke a fitting off my FIPK II and replaced it with a brass fitting. Drill hole, insert brass fittings and wammo, you're all set. I still would like to know if you can just buy the tube from them though.

 

[DevinSixtySeven]

this is going to make it sound more complicated, but it would be better if the main tube were drilled out and had a couple small tubes brazed on to accept the hoses. keeps the flow smoother inside the tube.

ac, i'm interested, even if it's just the tube, no holes or fittings, i'm sure i can make good use of it.

also, those hoses and whatnot are actually rerouted with the otto filter...thats what the little mini filter is for. no reason something similar can't be done to accomplish this.

-s

 

[Toasted Coastie]

this is the link

this is actually the web page I was looking for for the hose couplers.

hose

They also have heater hose, and hose kits for tacos. I emailed them not to long ago for a hose kit for tundra's, they said they needed a truck to do it with before they could sell a package.

 

[Verndog]

Dyno Sheet is Up!

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photopost/data/500/178492003-Headers-Catback-Intake.jpg

Also I updated Unichip page...link is in my signiture.

Update on Delivery and contact date.

Most everyone has been patient on the in process developement of our new PnP unichips. There has been some concern posted about "creditability" and why a there has been inconstancy in actual shipping date. Well the reason is this....the shipping dates are best estimates because Jack is not in control of the delivery of his suppliers. He calls a supplier, gives an order and gets a date....passes that on to me with his additional turnaround time. Well, there is one source for these plugs the ECU uses. They are direct Toyota suppliers, and these are difficult to get, and you need connections. Jacks source is their South Africa division so to further hinder things we are dealing with customs.

So...long story short....there is no real date till the day it hits your door. By this I mean when he gets pushed back by supplier, this is out of his control...he is all over this guy daily...but as we all know that doesn't MAKE it happen. So...now... Jack has gotten a "nasty agram from one of us"....and he will not give an "estimated date" until they're in hand. I too am reluctant because it's a setup. I will say there has been a tracking number issued to Jack on the 2000-2002 plugs...and they should arrive by early next week...a couple days to turn around....and... well you guys figure it.

Reality is this is a new product, that has a chain of issues to overcome....suppliers, test trucks, configurations, trouble shooting, assembly, uploading data....blah blah. So... this is for real...and it is coming...and all possible is being done to give accurate information and get this to us....please consider the whole picture before reacting....I believe you'll all find it's worth the patients.

Also...this is why people are not being contacted...Jack will not bill us till he knows they are in hand and he is then in control of delivery...then payment will be arranged and final configs confirmed.

Kevin

 

[Toasted Coastie]

Kev, you ROCK! I can wait man, now lets work on that intake piping :clown:

 

[DevinSixtySeven]

...so y'all get off jack's case, ya heard? :tu:

toyota japan was extremely slow getting s&s the oxygen sensor connectors for the header extensions. hopefully toyota south africa will be a little quicker...but dont worry, they will arrive, and dont blame jack...

-s

*edit* GOOD LORD. i just looked at the dyno sheet ...permagrin, anyone? kevin, how's it feel? why's the torque curve so lumpy? are those numbers corrected such that they can be compared to the orginal 2000 dyno sheet?

 

[Verndog]

Kev, you ROCK! I can wait man, now lets work on that intake piping :clown:

OK...I'm in for that...but suggest someone start a new thread "xxx intakes" to help keep this on topic. Alot of people in the GB aren't on daily like some of us motor heads, and have trouble getting to the UNICHIP info they like to see.

Kevin

 

[Toasted Coastie]

ok

OK...I'm in for that...but suggest someone start a new thread "xxx intakes" to help keep this on topic. Alot of people in the GB aren't on daily like some of us motor heads, and have trouble getting to the UNICHIP info they like to see.

Kevin

true flow thread

 

[Dude Boy]

I've been kind of quiet lately and have been doing some catch up with all the new posts. I jotted down some questions that I want to ask Kevin or anyone who wants to respond:

1. Is the readout on the Dastek dyno always factored to indicate flywheel BHP? I think it would be neat to see rear wheel, or road HP so we could compare it to what the others got when they dynoed.

2. Is the 5500 RPM for real, or is that interpolated or something? Mine used to shift at 5400 and sometimes the limiter would hit right at, or during the shift. Jack told me they could raise the limiter, but don't usually.

3. How did they get the converter to stay locked? I thought the converter would stay unlocked unless you let up on the pedal. Maybe in OD, it will eventually lock up? Do you have to lift to get it to upshift into OD? This is too many questions for #3, but I just don't understand what happens on the dyno with the automatic OD trans.

4. How about A/F ratio? What kind of readings did it show, especially in open loop mode?

5. Intake pipe question: Is there enough flexibility with the rigid tube and just the connectors? Remember the box is mounted solidly to the fender apron and the engine has to move around a bit on it's mounts. I realize the flow is better without the flexible part, but I wouldn't want the couplings to pull loose or the pipe to crack and leak in dirty air.

 

[aspenh1]

"newbie" questions

I guess I'm not the only one with questions and I know Kevin is being poked at from all directions SO, if anyone can explain to take some pressure off of Kevin.....

What is the best setup?(I know everyone has there own opinion) Which of the following?
1 - N/A w/unichip and Borla exaust? HP achieved?
2 - SC w/unichip and Borla Exaust? HP achieved?
I know the SC will have more but in some previous discussions it might not be enough to warrant the extra $4000 for the SC and premium gas for life. These are the ONLY 2 options I am interested in. I just can't make heads or tails of all of Kevin's charts and other lingo. I am a "newbie" when it comes to the engine talk. I just now the basics.

 

[Verndog]

I've been kind of quiet lately and have been doing some catch up with all the new posts. I jotted down some questions that I want to ask Kevin or anyone who wants to respond:

1. Is the readout on the Dastek dyno always factored to indicate flywheel BHP? I think it would be neat to see rear wheel, or road HP so we could compare it to what the others got when they dynoed.

2. Is the 5500 RPM for real, or is that interpolated or something? Mine used to shift at 5400 and sometimes the limiter would hit right at, or during the shift. Jack told me they could raise the limiter, but don't usually.

3. How did they get the converter to stay locked? I thought the converter would stay unlocked unless you let up on the pedal. Maybe in OD, it will eventually lock up? Do you have to lift to get it to upshift into OD? This is too many questions for #3, but I just don't understand what happens on the dyno with the automatic OD trans.

4. How about A/F ratio? What kind of readings did it show, especially in open loop mode?

5. Intake pipe question: Is there enough flexibility with the rigid tube and just the connectors? Remember the box is mounted solidly to the fender apron and the engine has to move around a bit on it's mounts. I realize the flow is better without the flexible part, but I wouldn't want the couplings to pull loose or the pipe to crack and leak in dirty air.

This Explains Drivetrain Loss and TC slippage

1) I've asked to the calculated drivetrain loss that is used to get to flywheel...likely I'll need to ask a couple more times Jack is a busy camper...they have 12 other vehicles in process right now.

2) The true RPM is input at 3000 RPM....and there apears to still be some torque converter slippage bejond that that scews max RPM. You see a slight drop in the after unichip curve below 3000 RPM...this likely is inaccurate...he doesn't hit WOT untill 3000 to keep slippage down to a minimum....but trust me...there is MORE power there!

3) Answered above...WOT is held back till 3K and runs done in second gear in 4wd to reduce tire slippage. But....this is only the actual dyno runs...the TUNE. is THROUGH THE ENTIRE RPM RANGE! And it broke my heart to watch this happen....I wanted to go yank his foot off my throttle

4) I asked Jack for those as well- (dont have yet) they shot for 12.8-1 in open loop. Closed loop is useless to adjust A/F...OBD2 will change it back over time...the increase in more data points and adjusted optimum timing is where closed loop is improved.

UPDATE:
Jack gave me the ranges for A/F ratio. He didn't send the full printout, but said before A/F ratio was 10.0 to 10.5 to 1 and after unichip held very close to 12.5 to 1.

5) I dont think there is an issue with cracks. The pipe is coupled on either end with the rubber tube adapter...so it is totally flex mounted with no "hard to hard" connection. I've looked at alot of intakes and never bought one from the reading I've done....I don't like the open filter drawing in the hot air...this on solves that....and the ribbed section in our stock pipe is calculated to reduce flow by 12-15%.

Now a word on power...I just got back from a little hard run. I stopped and waited for no traffic and then floored it from a dead stop. I hit 70 quicker then a cat can lick his a$$....and it scared me....I am dead serious. You can feel the truck hit open loop for sure still but it just keeps pulling hard...do not try this with small children in the car

Kevin

 

[Verndog]

I guess I'm not the only one with questions and I know Kevin is being poked at from all directions SO, if anyone can explain to take some pressure off of Kevin.....

What is the best setup?(I know everyone has there own opinion) Which of the following?
1 - N/A w/unichip and Borla exaust? HP achieved?
2 - SC w/unichip and Borla Exaust? HP achieved?
I know the SC will have more but in some previous discussions it might not be enough to warrant the extra $4000 for the SC and premium gas for life. These are the ONLY 2 options I am interested in. I just can't make heads or tails of all of Kevin's charts and other lingo. I am a "newbie" when it comes to the engine talk. I just now the basics.

I had to make my decision on my map before I left. I looked at the results of the 3 runs (I will try to get this dyno as well before unichip with the 3 different configs.). I chose to keep the intake....worse thing that can happen is you take the intake off and go back to stock....this will go back a small amount toward rich...rich is safe (small power loss) and lean over a certain point can be dangerous.

The headers in SC run showed only a small gain with unichip installed...but on my truck torque was about the same gain and HP slightly less as the stock truck. This brings up a new line of questioning about SC and where the wall is with it. I believe the headers now do help after because look at my before HP and compare to the 2000 that should be + 5hp on me because of emission changes. I started before unichip at 252 HP and he was at 238.

I am way up on him and my end HP rating after unichip is about 25HP from the SC truck before he installed the unichip for prob. around $1600 worth of perf. mods. I throw in the exhaust but we all know there aren't many gains there other then awesome sound.

For the $1600.00 and great sounding smooth running truck....and reduced chances of drivetrain damage...I really like where I'm at. I tow a 3000# boat...and have MORE power then I need 99% of the time.

But if money isn't holding you back...go for the SC...no doubt it'll still smoke me. :tu:

Here is look at my dyno run.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/images/Unichip/Unichip_Tune/Dnyo_1.AVI

Kevin

 

[aspenh1]

Kevin,
Please answer this - if i get a sc unichip tuned for a na engine, then i can always add the sc, right? Is there any issues or loss by not ever adding the sc? and if I get a na tuned unichip, then I can not add the sc because the chips are actually different, not just a retune?

I believe this is the root of my questions. If the unichip is the same and it is tuning only, then I can always retune for the sc. But if it is a different chip then I would be stuck.

Agian thanks for your valuable time.

 

[Verndog]

Kevin,
Please answer this - if i get a sc unichip tuned for a na engine, then i can always add the sc, right? Is there any issues or loss by not ever adding the sc? and if I get a na tuned unichip, then I can not add the sc because the chips are actually different, not just a retune?

I believe this is the root of my questions. If the unichip is the same and it is tuning only, then I can always retune for the sc. But if it is a different chip then I would be stuck.

Agian thanks for your valuable time.

1) Yes you can always add SC and never lose anything except the additional cost if you never use.

2) If you buy for N/A it still can be upgraded to SC....just that it will need to be sent in, and the end cost will be a bit more because it needs to be reworked. Plus the additional downtime to send in. So getting it ready for SC first is best only if you KNOW your going to add the SC later.

Kevin

 

[keiphers]

*edit* GOOD LORD. i just looked at the dyno sheet ...permagrin, anyone? kevin, how's it feel? why's the torque curve so lumpy? are those numbers corrected such that they can be compared to the orginal 2000 dyno sheet?

Ditto! Anyone notice that torque jump that's got to be in the mid 30 range..

Kevin, thanks for your continuing hard work.

Nother question though... If I got TRD cams or a Lexus 4.3 L crank to get 5.3 L of displacement, would I need a custom tune or would my current map be ok?