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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering if anyone who upgraded there stereo with subs and amp had to do a big 3 upgrade, install a capacitor or buy a bigger better battery. im putting a 1200 watt amp (500rms) amp with two 10" fosgate subs and a sony deck in this weekend and not sure if anyone had to do those upgrades, just trying to see what im in for........ i have a 2012 DC 4.6L
 

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A capaitor is marketing and is never needed. Your OEm battery is plenty large and unless you're listening with the engine off, isn't anything to worry about. You can do the big 3 but it's really not necessary. A 500 Watt amp, even at full tilt, will only, if ever, put out 1200 Watts for milliseconds. A 500 Watt amp is a fairly easy load. Just install and enjoy.
 

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I had the same thoughts when buying my 2012 DC 5.7L. Mine has the tow package which adds (among other things) a 170 amp alternator and a bigger battery. As a former car stereo installer, I think this will be enough to power the system I'll be putting in... which will consist of a couple Zapco amps.

If you have the tow package, then you should be good. It probably wouldn't hurt to put a .5 or 1 farad cap inline with the battery, though. I know there's plenty of room for that in my 5.7L, so there should be even more room in your 4.6.

If you don't have the tow package, then I'd recommend upgrading the alternator and battery. You most certainly don't want to starve the truck's existing computer and electrical systems.

Hope that helps.
 

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I've been running a 300 watt Alpine amp for doors and a 750 mono class D Rockford Fosgate amp for two 10" subs for about a year without the big three. Ran 0 gauge and good grounds though. Occasional pounding but nothing crazy. I believe the 2011 with tow package came with the 150 amp alternator. No voltage drops or issues thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks sounds like a sweet set up. I dont have the tow package but sems as if my setup should be ok on the battery pull.
 

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Big capacitors are useful if you have an amplifier that has a lot of headroom. The Sony amplifier you mentioned should do fine without a capacitor. I'm not sure how big the alternator is on the non-tow package 2012 Tundras, but I'm sure it's big enough to handle that amp. Here's an easy way to test it out: Turn on the engine, headlights and all interior lights. Then start turning up the volume on your radio. If you get to a high volume and the lights are dimming with the beat of the music, then you need more power to the amp. This could be as a result of not a large enough gauge wire feeding it, a bad ground connection to the amp, or the truck not putting out enough power to feed everything at one time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the feedback, I'm gonna install this weekend and I'll be sure to test it. I bought a 4gauge wire kit cuz that's what crutchfeild recommended.
 

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Good luck, You probably have the 130 amp alternator so you could comfortably drive another small amp if you choose for the doors. I would go ahead and run the extra RCA cable while I had the sills and radio out just in case. I'm using my head unit to power tweets in the dash. and it sounds super clean when balanced with the amps.
 
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