While this doesn't address your question/request for pad/rotor material, I just wanted to chime in about the importance of proper rotor installation technique. I've been plagued with "warping rotors" with both my 07 Tundra and 11 Sequoia. I've replaced rotors, pads, even calipers on the Tundra, and in each case I get brake pulsation (in the pedal and steering wheel) within 5k miles. Especially when braking moderately hard from highway speeds.
I recently found a Raybestos technical paper which contends rotors don't warp. Instead, they develop high/low spots due to improper rotor installation. I can't find it anymore (link is broken), but the concept is making sure the rotor is squarely on the hub - and verify with a run-out gauge (<$50 from Amazon). It should be no more than +/- 0.002". Rotate rotor on hub to compensate for any variation above the 0.002". Then, when installing the wheel, DO NOT TORQUE TO MORE THAN 97FT/LB ON ALUMINUM WHEELS. This is probably where I went wrong with all my previous installs.
I was using my impact wrench and torqued it until it was "good enough". Turns out that was WAY over the spec. Being too tight puts tension on the rotor, which causes a very slight deflection as it heats up (like a spring). That, in turn, allows the pads to rub on the rotor, which over time will deposit pad material on the rotor, or wear the high spots down.
I recently changed the rotors again (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NQF8J8B which ARE drilled/slotted). Using a run-out gauge and proper torque wrench, I have now driven over 10k miles, and have not experienced any brake issues. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
A few weeks ago, I had a local tire shop replace all four tires. When I got home, I double checked the torque. They were all over 200FT/LB! I broke them all loose, and reset them to 97. Do not assume the dealer/shop will use the correct torque. Check, and recheck any time wheels are taken off the car (i.e. balance/rotation).
