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Driver of 2 Tundra trucks
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Discussion Starter #1
2007 with 18" Alloys.

I am looking for suggestions on upgrading the rotors and pads on the front of my Tundra.
Improved resistance to heat, reduced fade, and reduced stopping distance are desired.

I do NOT want rotors that have been cross drilled.


What can you recommend?
Thank you.
 

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I have slotted and dimpled rotors on my 01. From EBC. The drilled rotors are prone to fractures, is that why you don’t want them? My EBC’s aren’t drilled for that reason. They just dimple the rotor with the tip of the drill bit (or whatever type of machining tool they might use). Had them on for several years now and still no problems.


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Pretty happy with my setup. That’s the same reason I avoided drilled rotors. Braking performance is increased greatly as well


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I used Greenstuff but I don’t remember the series. It was the cheaper series though, and they didn’t last a long time. I think I got around 50,000 miles out of them. I kept them when I replaced them, could probably get another 15,000 out of them I just didn’t wanna chance it. I put the oem pads back on. The Greenstuff had a bit more of a bite than oem for sure. I just like the longevity of the oem pads


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Driver of 2 Tundra trucks
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6,275 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I used Greenstuff but I don’t remember the series. It was the cheaper series though, and they didn’t last a long time. I think I got around 50,000 miles out of them. I kept them when I replaced them, could probably get another 15,000 out of them I just didn’t wanna chance it. I put the oem pads back on. The Greenstuff had a bit more of a bite than oem for sure. I just like the longevity of the oem pads
I appreciate the feedback... I put maybe 10,000 miles a year on this truck, so the Greenstuff would probably last me a good long time.
 

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I purchased Centric Slotted Rotors and Wagner SX1303 Semi-Metallic Sever Duty pads all from Rockauto.com........$79 for each rotor and $26.79 for the pads. I pull a 3k boat WITHOUT brakes so I wanted to beef up the front brakes. I also have Semi-Metallic pads on the rear. I did this 3.5 years ago and still going strong.

One other thing if you experience a spongy brake pedal chances are it's the old rubber flex brake hoses........a quick cure also from RockAuto with stainless steal brake hoses.
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I installed EBC slotted w EBC pads about 10K miles ago (I forget for sure what compound but I think green). Stop much better than OEM- brake harder without fading. Not sure on longevity, but I don't doubt they will last a long time.
 

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While this doesn't address your question/request for pad/rotor material, I just wanted to chime in about the importance of proper rotor installation technique. I've been plagued with "warping rotors" with both my 07 Tundra and 11 Sequoia. I've replaced rotors, pads, even calipers on the Tundra, and in each case I get brake pulsation (in the pedal and steering wheel) within 5k miles. Especially when braking moderately hard from highway speeds.

I recently found a Raybestos technical paper which contends rotors don't warp. Instead, they develop high/low spots due to improper rotor installation. I can't find it anymore (link is broken), but the concept is making sure the rotor is squarely on the hub - and verify with a run-out gauge (<$50 from Amazon). It should be no more than +/- 0.002". Rotate rotor on hub to compensate for any variation above the 0.002". Then, when installing the wheel, DO NOT TORQUE TO MORE THAN 97FT/LB ON ALUMINUM WHEELS. This is probably where I went wrong with all my previous installs.

I was using my impact wrench and torqued it until it was "good enough". Turns out that was WAY over the spec. Being too tight puts tension on the rotor, which causes a very slight deflection as it heats up (like a spring). That, in turn, allows the pads to rub on the rotor, which over time will deposit pad material on the rotor, or wear the high spots down.

I recently changed the rotors again (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NQF8J8B which ARE drilled/slotted). Using a run-out gauge and proper torque wrench, I have now driven over 10k miles, and have not experienced any brake issues. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.

A few weeks ago, I had a local tire shop replace all four tires. When I got home, I double checked the torque. They were all over 200FT/LB! I broke them all loose, and reset them to 97. Do not assume the dealer/shop will use the correct torque. Check, and recheck any time wheels are taken off the car (i.e. balance/rotation).
 

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Nobody has mentioned anything about Powerstop. Does anyone have any good or bad experience with them? I just bought the Z36 Truck and Tow kit (w/o calipers). Looking to get these installed over the next few weeks.
 

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My Power Stop Z36 Truck & Tow kit (w/o rotors) arrived on my doorstep today. Will be installing this week.

Tye
 
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