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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone experienced their 4.7's emitting a rather evident vibration revving the motor in park up to and beyond about 2300 rpm's? Because the entire driveline is eliminated by being in park or neutral while this vibration occurs, my best guess is torque converter or flywheel out of balance. (the engine mounts and the tranny mounts are fine). This vibration is also felt while driving at most speeds, reaching its peak at about 70-mph (2300rpm), so this really has made this beautiful truck a no-highway driver. It drives me nuts! Any solutions? thanks for your replies. -Rob
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Based on your ability to link it to specific rpms and not driveline motion, it sounds like a torsional vibration setting up a resonance frequency. Problems with the crankshaft/harmonic damper maybe?

Q: Is the vibration on the highway the same as while sitting at idle in Park revving the engine to and holding it at 2300rpm?
Q: How old is your serpentine belt?

This is what the 4.7L 2UZFE damper looks like:


They're $125/ea at Rock Auto. I don't know if it is a rebuildable/refillable part or not; the damn things weigh 5 lbs! They aren't really known for being a failing part.

Maybe a member with more experience addressing this might step up and offer some opinions. Anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply. The serpentine belt is new. I have owned the truck for almost three years and it has been an issue since then. The previous owner did not have any of these issues. The vibration on the highway is the same as in park or neutral. One note: the timing belt was replaced just before I purchased it! I wonder if that is relevant. Motor does not exhibit any skipping or any lack of power, just heavy vibration. I am curious about the damper.....thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I assume this is the actual crankshaft pulley...remove the old pulley and replace it with this? thanks again. -Rob
 

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Yeah man. Take your old sep. belt off. Then take the one bolt out which can be a pain in the *** to get out. Next pull the part off and slide the new one on. You may have to get a puller, but when i changed my timing belt mine slide right off for the most part. I dont have a mech. radiator fan on my motor anymore, so I cant tell you if the fan would be in the way but I dont think it would. If it is, theres four ( i believe 10mm nuts holding the fan on. The radiator shroud is a two piece design im pretty sure too, so you wont have to take the whole shroud out to pull the fan out. If you have a pretty decent impact gun, the crank pulley wont be a big deal. I used a chain wrench and just a breaker bar. Others have put a breaker bar on the frame, unhooked the coils, and bumped the key once to break the bolt free.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the info, 400! Did that cure the vibration problem I described earlier? It really is driving me bonkers! On top of that, now, after replacing the rotors, calipers, pads and drums, the exact same pulsating that occurred with the old parts is happening again, immediately after install!! I replaced the rotors thinking that was the obvious reason, having the old style calipers on the truck and all. Unbelievable! I am going to continue searching here to find that fix! Otherwise, a trade in might just happen! lol -Rob
 
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