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Hey Guys,
Well it's time to tap into the collective minds of the Tundra Solutions team once again. It's proven to be invaluable in the past.

I have a 2003 V8 Tundra 4x4 with 115,000 miles on it and when I brake at speed (above 35 say) I get a bouncing/low frequency vibration in the cab and seat of the truck. I down think it's the front rotors, front suspension, ball joints, etc as I don't feel it in the steering wheel.

The shock absorbers are still originals - could they be worn and are allowing the rear axle to hop under braking?

Maybe warped rear drums?

Axle/differential problems? The rear diff oil is still original as well.

Any thoughts would be appreciated,
Kris
 

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Hey Guys,
Well it's time to tap into the collective minds of the Tundra Solutions team once again. It's proven to be invaluable in the past.

I have a 2003 V8 Tundra 4x4 with 115,000 miles on it and when I brake at speed (above 35 say) I get a bouncing/low frequency vibration in the cab and seat of the truck. I down think it's the front rotors, front suspension, ball joints, etc as I don't feel it in the steering wheel.

The shock absorbers are still originals - could they be worn and are allowing the rear axle to hop under braking?

Maybe warped rear drums?

Axle/differential problems? The rear diff oil is still original as well.

Any thoughts would be appreciated,
Kris
My guess is a warped rotor. Can you feel a pulsation in the brake pedal?

Not that I think its related, but I'd say its time to replace your rear diff fluid. If you have LSD, you definitely definitely have to put in LSD fluid. I had mine replaced, they put in the regular stuff, I drove the truck home, then came back to the shop, I could feel the difference immediately.
 

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I don't feel any pulsing or vibration in the steering wheel or the brake pedal. That's the strange part. Could it be that while I'm decellerating, the drive line is bucking and wobbling do to wear? Or maybe the helical gears in the diff need some new oil.... Strange.
 

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does the vibration seem to get slower as you slow down? I too would say that you have a warped rotor. when is the last time you had them turned or replaced?

Andrew
 

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Hello...115k miles with original shocks and diff oil? What else is original? Drums, rotors, ball joints?? Man you need to get some shop time and start with the regular maint because even a Tundra needs some loving care every now and then. You vibration could be a whole bunch of things that regular work would have fixed. If it happens when you press on the brake then its very likely the rotors/drums that need replacing. Don't turn them, just replace them.
 

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Haha. I hear you guys. I replace the filters, oil, rotate the tire, etc. all myself and I keep up with it regularly. The diff oil and shocks of course have been carefully ignored. I have diligently replaced them with past trucks and to be honest I haven't noticed a difference. Plus other friends of mine have gone 180,000 with their vehicles and never replaced the diff oil. In fact sometimes as you mess with things, the inverse seems to happen. I got some axle seals leaks right after I replaced the oil in the past. Then when I had a truck with zerk fitting to pump grease into the ball joints, they seemed to wear faster then the permenantly sealed type which I have now on the Tundra (and I was careful to wipe the dirt and grim away from the fittings and grease gun nozzle while doing it).

Anway it looks like it's time to start checking off the diagnostic list. I'll check/replace the diff oil, shocks, rear drums (because if it was the front rotors I would think I would feel it in the steering wheel right).
 

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Your rotors are probably warpped and I'm pretty sure you wouldnt feel it in the steering. Another thing being that I work at a Toyota dealership, you should change your diff fluid every 60k miles in the front,rear and transfer case since you have 4x4. Make sure it has the LSD additive in it. You will hate life if it dosent. Also look into a trany flush, replacement of your timing belt and water pump since you have so many miles on your truck, also do a power sterring flush as well. You could also do a engine flush but I wouldn't if you havent already because you have all the crud in the bottom and it will just stir it all up and cause your injectors to suck it all up. Just some advise to everyone.
 

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Just came home from the mechanic who fixed a vibration problems, I thought the rotors went bad (I cut them a while ago). It turns out that on the passenger side one of the caliper piston seized up. It was the one at the bottom on the inside. Supposedly a common problem. It did messed up the rotors.
 

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yea that will deiffinitley do it siezed callipers is never a good thing. Are you going to go ahead and change out both rotors along with your calliper?
 

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Hey Guys,
Well it's time to tap into the collective minds of the Tundra Solutions team once again. It's proven to be invaluable in the past.

I have a 2003 V8 Tundra 4x4 with 115,000 miles on it and when I brake at speed (above 35 say) I get a bouncing/low frequency vibration in the cab and seat of the truck. I down think it's the front rotors, front suspension, ball joints, etc as I don't feel it in the steering wheel.

The shock absorbers are still originals - could they be worn and are allowing the rear axle to hop under braking?

Maybe warped rear drums?

Axle/differential problems? The rear diff oil is still original as well.

Any thoughts would be appreciated,
Kris
If you have a 4x4 as stated in your original post you don't have sealed universals... that is on the 4x2. There are 8 grease points on the drive/propeller shaft(s). So, if they have never been greased you could have one or more failing. I would get under there and see if the front or rear drive shafts move at the universals.

The rear diff has a breather. Water can get in there and contaminate the diff oil. I changed mine at 60k miles and it looked nasty. I had to add friction modifier because I have LSD.

As stated your problem could be number of things. If it was a warped rotor you would most likely feel it in the pedal when applied. Stuck caliper? Bummer.
 

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yea that will deiffinitley do it siezed callipers is never a good thing. Are you going to go ahead and change out both rotors along with your calliper?
Yes I did, lucky enough to catch the loacl supply store for the caliper, I had brand new rotors and pads in stock from Toyota
 
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