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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello! I have a 2006 Tundra DC. We had heavy rain here in Texas the whole day yesterday and my truck started to act weird last night. The low beams were turning on randomly and not turning off, and then truck starts to run when i turn the ignition to ON position and not start. After hours of diagnosing finally found out that water has been leaking in to the cabin on to the junction box on the driver side under the instrument panel and shorted circuits. Just ordered a new junction box from the dealer and it's on the way. Any leads where water possibly could leak in to the driver side cabin?
TIA
 

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Here is a good start.
Passenger Side it would most likely be thru the cowling where the Factory white plastic Screw Receivers have paper gaskets disintegrated and is dripping straight thru the blower. A dab of silicone around offender stops it.
On driver side either Sunroof drains or Evaporator Drain exiting from firewall is clogged. A burst from a compressor will clear that.
Recommend getting some Evap Foamy Cleaner Kit and giving it a good bath upon clearing drain.Have a catch pan down. Some nasties will release the Krakens.
I went thru several learning curves since Sept2005 when I got my 2006.
Tons of threads on here. Just search 'Water Leaks In Cab'. LOL
You have a great year Tundra worth doing everything to her she deserves.
How many miles?
Good Luck!
 

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What XS said. Use the search function. Top of any page where it says "Search Community" type in there and hit enter.
An easy check before you start doing any work on it is the water test. Pull off the LH A pillar and have someone run the hose on it and watch to see where the water comes in. I could be wrong but if I remember some of those water leak threads ones like yours usually have root cause of sealer bead on the front glass but again, thats what the water test will prove.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is a good start.
Passenger Side it would most likely be thru the cowling where the Factory white plastic Screw Receivers have paper gaskets disintegrated and is dripping straight thru the blower. A dab of silicone around offender stops it.
On driver side either Sunroof drains or Evaporator Drain exiting from firewall is clogged. A burst from a compressor will clear that.
Recommend getting some Evap Foamy Cleaner Kit and giving it a good bath upon clearing drain.Have a catch pan down. Some nasties will release the Krakens.
I went thru several learning curves since Sept2005 when I got my 2006.
Tons of threads on here. Just search 'Water Leaks In Cab'. LOL
You have a great year Tundra worth doing everything to her she deserves.
How many miles?
Good Luck!
My truck got 149k miles. I don't have a sunroof. Could you advise me on where the evaporator drain is located?
 

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Not sure if this might help you but I thought it could help you find where the problem might be.

Larry
 

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My truck got 149k miles. I don't have a sunroof. Could you advise me on where the evaporator drain is located?
[/QU
My truck got 149k miles. I don't have a sunroof. Could you advise me on where the evaporator drain is located?
153074

OTE]
Passenger Side under AC Lines on firewall. The black rubber drain thingy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the AC drain, it seems to draining good. I have not found any trace of water on the passenger side. As for now, all I know is it's dripping few drops of rain water on to the instrument junction box on the driver side. Gonna do a water test tomorrow and see where it will lead me to.
153075
153077
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Okay, so we did a water test today. Started from the bottom of the windshield and worked the way up to the top slowly. No leaks initially but once we started spraying from the top we found that there's water starting to leak in through the top area in the windshield seal on driver side A pillar and flows down along to the floorboard. Some of that water gets in to the harness and flows straight in to the backside of the interior fuse box (INSTRUMENT PANEL JUNCTION). This kind of a leak can lead to a total chaos, period..especially after a heavy rain all day. Driving around with an issue like this is like driving around in a time bomb. I read in a different post where a guy had a similar problem and he had mentioned when he was driving his truck oneday the starter kept trying to engage constantly. Stuff like that can do some serious expensive damages. When my tundra started doing that whole "starting the motor up whenever i turned the ignition to ON position" it freaked me out. I thought some module or the PCM was fixing to take a shit. I was this close about to take my truck to the toyota dealership looking for a solution. But a good friend of mine who is a lead tech at the Honda dealership convinced me not to take it to the dealership as it will end up with a very expensive bill. He pulled out the wiring diagram for the truck, went through it slowly and ended up pulling out the interior fuse box that had water in it. Some of you'll might wonder how come I never saw any water on my mats or floor board. Well, i never did. I got husky floor mats and never seen any water residue on them. The water drips inside the kick panel along the chanel and out.

Solution for my problem: I purchased a new fuse box from Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories Online for $300 as the local toyota dealer wanted neary $450 for it.
Getting an auto glass company to come out next week to take out the windshield and reseal it. (The truck has a Benson windshield not an Toyota one, so that mean it was replaced somewhere along in the last 14 years and whoever put it on didn't do a good job.)
I'm also going to put some silicon and seal those plastic retainers where the fresh air cowling screws in to avoid any future leaks because i've read that alot of people has leaks from those retainers on the passenger side.

Hope this helps people with similar issues.

Here is a pic of my 06 Tundra! Cheers!
153079
 

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Glad you found the problem and that you took the time to do the trouble shooting to find it yourself. Yeah, if you just dropped it off at the dealership they might have charged you hundreds just to do the trouble shooting, plus nail you for the parts.
But I think the best thing that came from this is you were good enough to come back and explain what the problem was and what you needed to fix it. There's so many dead end threads on here from guys who post with a problem but never come back with a fix. Nice work.
 

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2001 Toyota tundra access cab 4.7
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Glad you figured out how the water was getting into your Cab, just goes to show you how even a little bit of water can cause Chaos on the electrical system,thx for sharing as it will help other Tundra owners who may run across this Issue in the future 👍🏻
 

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Not sure if this might help you but I thought it could help you find where the problem might be.

Larry
Hey LGL002,
03' Tundra with 355k miles. Had that happen to me, air wasn't as strong coming through the vents as it used to be, and what was blowing out smelled really bad. Wish I had a picture of it to share, but I removed the evap and you talking about a mess! Leaves, mold, grime, some of the nastiest stuff you can imagine was plugging up the evap. I guess because there's no cabin filter in these 1rst gens the stuff just gets sucked up in there and over a few years it starts to collect. Took mine completely out and got some a/c fin cleaner and hosed it all off. Reinstalled, pulled a vacuum, recharged 22oz , and a/c working like new! Only thing is you have to remove some of the dash to get the evap out, but all n' all it wasn't that difficult to do. There's you tube video's showing how to remove what needs to be on the 1rst gen tundras to get the evap out. Hope that helps.
 

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Okay, so we did a water test today. Started from the bottom of the windshield and worked the way up to the top slowly. No leaks initially but once we started spraying from the top we found that there's water starting to leak in through the top area in the windshield seal on driver side A pillar and flows down along to the floorboard. Some of that water gets in to the harness and flows straight in to the backside of the interior fuse box (INSTRUMENT PANEL JUNCTION). This kind of a leak can lead to a total chaos, period..especially after a heavy rain all day. Driving around with an issue like this is like driving around in a time bomb. I read in a different post where a guy had a similar problem and he had mentioned when he was driving his truck oneday the starter kept trying to engage constantly. Stuff like that can do some serious expensive damages. When my tundra started doing that whole "starting the motor up whenever i turned the ignition to ON position" it freaked me out. I thought some module or the PCM was fixing to take a shit. I was this close about to take my truck to the toyota dealership looking for a solution. But a good friend of mine who is a lead tech at the Honda dealership convinced me not to take it to the dealership as it will end up with a very expensive bill. He pulled out the wiring diagram for the truck, went through it slowly and ended up pulling out the interior fuse box that had water in it. Some of you'll might wonder how come I never saw any water on my mats or floor board. Well, i never did. I got husky floor mats and never seen any water residue on them. The water drips inside the kick panel along the chanel and out.

Solution for my problem: I purchased a new fuse box from Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories Online for $300 as the local toyota dealer wanted neary $450 for it.
Getting an auto glass company to come out next week to take out the windshield and reseal it. (The truck has a Benson windshield not an Toyota one, so that mean it was replaced somewhere along in the last 14 years and whoever put it on didn't do a good job.)
I'm also going to put some silicon and seal those plastic retainers where the fresh air cowling screws in to avoid any future leaks because i've read that alot of people has leaks from those retainers on the passenger side.

Hope this helps people with similar issues.

Here is a pic of my 06 Tundra! Cheers! View attachment 153079
when they reseal the windshield, have them check the chrome rails on the pillars, they have tabs to align the windshield. The toyota windshield is about 800 bucks. When my window was done, the guy doing clipped off the tabs, said they were not needed and I had a leak. Just sayin, the rails were about 20 bucks each, since the windshield was replaced, it is likely they clipped the tabs. I would replace them if I were you.
 

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What tabs are you talking about? The bead of urethane that is to be applied to the inside of the glass is the one thing that is solely responsible for stopping water. If you lay the bead right and center the glass right it will never leak. Curious where you mean.
 

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Hello! I have a 2006 Tundra DC. We had heavy rain here in Texas the whole day yesterday and my truck started to act weird last night. The low beams were turning on randomly and not turning off, and then truck starts to run when i turn the ignition to ON position and not start. After hours of diagnosing finally found out that water has been leaking in to the cabin on to the junction box on the driver side under the instrument panel and shorted circuits. Just ordered a new junction box from the dealer and it's on the way. Any leads where water possibly could leak in to the driver side cabin?
TIA
I had the same thing happen to my 2005 Tundra DC in Grapevine, TX. Had reputable windshield shop said the window wasn't leaking. I know a retired Toyota mechanic that works out of his house and he pulled off the upper right chrome and driver side pillar cover and found water running down the post under the dash to the junction box. When he removed the windshield there was a lot of rust so make sure you do a good repair of the area before reinstalling the windshield. My mechanic charged me $900 which included a used fuse box parts and labor. The dealer wanted $800 just for the fuse box and told me I had to figure out where the water was coming in. Glad you figured it out so fast.
BA
153138
 
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