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Discussion Starter #1
We've never been thrilled with the performance of our AC, especially here in Vegas in the summer. So, when I took the Seq in for the ball joint recall, I had them look at the AC. They called back later and said the thing needed a refrigerant purge and refill. (Cost to me $185.)

I picked up the Seq at the appointed time and yes, it was over 105 degrees that day and the vehicle had been sitting in the sun for a couple hours. However, in driving the Seq home, a distance of over 10 miles on the freeway, the interior of the vehicle never got below about 85 degrees with the cooling control set in the full "COLD" position. I'd say the performance of the AC was worse than before I brought it in. Using a laser thermometer to check, the air coming out of the vents was never below about 60 degrees.

Any other folks had trouble with their AC and what was the cause and remedy?
 

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I agree... the AC has always felt weak in the SEQ. Maybe it's the large cabin or the wrap around glass that lets in so much radiant heat, but the air from the ducts should blow colder.

It's been more than 4 years with the SEQ but it's my wife's daily driver, and she parks in a covered garage at work, so the cabin never gets really hot.
 

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Mine is weak too. It must just be the way this suv is. I closs the vents I'm not using so more cold here comes out the vents that we are using. Other than that I think we are stuck with weak AC.
 

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The cure is simpler, and considerably cheaper, than you can imagine.
Go the local hardware, or Home Depot type center, and buy some pipe insulation.
It's dirt cheap....like 16 feet for less than $2.50....be sure to get the right size inside, with the self stick edge.
And a small bag of wire ties.

Then insulate the "Cold" line, all the way from the compressor, to the firewall.
You won't believe the difference this cheap fix makes.

But just taking one good look at all that exposed aluminum line, that absorbs heat from the warmest parts of the engine compartment, and you will begin to understand why a lot of that "Cold" refrigerant doesn't make it to the interior.
 

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I FREEZE inside my Sequoia, I'm not sure of the temp of the air comeing out my ducks but it gets so cold I need to turn the temp up. I will check the temp comeing out my ducks tomorrow. Johnnnny
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks Johnnny.

Regarding exposed aluminum lines, I'm not seeing much of that under the hood-- a few inches here and there especially near tight bends, most of it has some form of insulation on it already. Maybe I don't know what I'm looking at.
 

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OK, it's 98 degree's here in New Jersey. It's nasty out hot and VERY humid I checked the temp. coming out my vents and it went as low as 38 degree's useing my laser thermometer. Johnny
 

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I cant imagine what Vegas in the summer is like. During our breif 90+ heat waves here, I found you have to "Manage" the system. Plus, you need way more than a 10 mile drive to start cooling down.

Air out: If your rear windows are not tinted, get them tinted. Close your sunroof shade. Get a dash shade. When you first get in, lower all the windows to blow out all the hot air. Even if its 100 outside, its probably 120 inside! As you drive ad the hotter air blows out the vehicle, close the windows.

Controls: Set the temp as low as it will go, crank the fan as high as it will go, and set the vents on fresh air. Once the interior starts getting a little cool, set the vent on Recirculate. This helps it cool down a lot faster.

Vents: If no one is in the rear, shut the rear vents off. Point the dash vents UP, as hot air rises, cold air falls. Set the vents on Face if your feet are not sweaty.

Once you start cooling down, I like to save gas: Turn the temp up to 75, but the fan down to 70%-80%. The compressor works less this way than if the temp was at 65 and the fan was on low.
 

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I have all my windows tinted and that does help keeping the air cool inside my truck. But I use auto start with my A/C on from the day before and just let the truck sit for 10-15 minutes and when I get outside it's ice cold inside. Johnnny
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks guys. we've done everything you suggest including procedures and addtion of tint, windshield reflector etc. We did the tint a year ago and that reduced the heat in the vehicle dramatically.

I finally had the chance to drive ours this weekend and break out the infrared thermometer. Output from the AC standing still does not produce air less than about 50 degrees F (outside air 105F). Started with car in garage, not in sun. Driving for about 5-10 minutes and getting some air thru the radiator gets air output down to 40 degrees, but the vehicle and cockpit is still pretty warm . The IF readings were taken pointing up into the vents on the radio console.

Our older Windstar and Explorer vehicles with dual zone AC in this same LV climate cooled the vehicles completely down within 10 minutes, standing still or driving. Those vehicles did not have any aftermarket tint, either, but did use the windshield sash religiously. I recently picked up a new Honda Pilot and that cools down much quicker than the Seq. also.

I don't know what to think about my options at this point. The general response from the thread would support a dealer's opinion that "this is how they all are."
 

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I cant imagine what Vegas in the summer is like. During our breif 90+ heat waves here, I found you have to "Manage" the system. Plus, you need way more than a 10 mile drive to start cooling down.

Air out: If your rear windows are not tinted, get them tinted. Close your sunroof shade. Get a dash shade. When you first get in, lower all the windows to blow out all the hot air. Even if its 100 outside, its probably 120 inside! As you drive ad the hotter air blows out the vehicle, close the windows.

Controls: Set the temp as low as it will go, crank the fan as high as it will go, and set the vents on fresh air. Once the interior starts getting a little cool, set the vent on Recirculate. This helps it cool down a lot faster.

Vents: If no one is in the rear, shut the rear vents off. Point the dash vents UP, as hot air rises, cold air falls. Set the vents on Face if your feet are not sweaty.

Once you start cooling down, I like to save gas: Turn the temp up to 75, but the fan down to 70%-80%. The compressor works less this way than if the temp was at 65 and the fan was on low.
I LIVE IN RENO AND WE SEE 105+ HEAT WAVES. I FOUND THAT IF YOU HAVE A SUN ROOF OPEN IT ALL THE WAY WITH THE AC ON FULL AND IT COOLS DOWN FASTER BECUASE HOT AIR RISES AND THE COLD AIR PUSHES IT OUT.
 

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Make sure that the heater control valve is shutting off. It sits in the middle of the firewall at the very top. One hose (the right hand one I think) will be engine temperature hot and the other hose should be no hotter than anything else under the hood. I had to adjust the cable to get mine to shut off all the way.
 

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My AC is also not cold. I have given up on this. Several trips to dealer did not get me anywhere...
 

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I agree. I am very disappointed with the AC system on my wifes 2005 Sequoia. I also agree with 98xlt...because we too had a Ford Windstar it was a 1995, ten years older than the Sequoia and it's AC system puts the Sequoia's to shame! Wait I got one better...my 1985 Subaru Brat blows air so cold you cant keep your hand in front of the vent for more than 20-30 seconds before your hand will feel uncomfortably cold, and No it's not even R12 it is converted to 134a! I finally had my wife take the Sequoia to the dealer, they said the schrader valve was leaking, but I don't think they did anything because I can't tell any difference. I have a fancy high tech digital temperature probe that is very accurate and the lowest reading I could get out of the vents was 55.6 F. I took readings from my car and friends vehicles who's AC was running good and 40 degrees seemed to be the norm or average output at the vents. I saw a thread on here about some heater valve that may not be closing all the way. I will check that out tomorrow. If it's not that, I WILL be going back to the dealer and demand some satisfaction. I've read on here that some of you say your vehicles will freeze you out, so why shouldn't mine work just as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
checked out the heater valve two days ago and it appears to close all the way against the external "stop"

Went boating on Lake Mead yesterday and it was about 112F when we came in off the water. Did everything with windshield reflector, windows open, sun roof open. Cooling was still sub-par. In driving over 1 hour we never got the temp below around 80.

Also burns me up that the oil pressure gauge again showed a "zero" reading a good deal of our trip after they just replaced a computer module for this problem for $650 against my warranty. Thank goodness for extended warranties!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
why can't we edit our posts anymore?

Just to clarify my last post, we just opened windows and sunroof just long enough to try to get the baked air out of the cabin before we buttoned up for recirc cooling
 

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I don't know what model years the TSB covers but my AC compressor failed twice and overall never performed well. Last year the TSB was done, this repaced many of the lines with larger lines and increased to cooling capacity. This made a big difference in performance although I still don't think it's the best AC system around. Both my Ford trucks have better AC.
 

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I agree, my 93 Honda Accord A/C is twice as cold and its A/C has never been service with 235,000 miles! Thats o.k. I still rather have my 01 Saquoia SR5 than the Honda.
 

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I FREEZE inside my Sequoia, I'm not sure of the temp of the air comeing out my ducks but it gets so cold I need to turn the temp up. I will check the temp comeing out my ducks tomorrow. Johnnnny

I freeze as well I'm not sure what people say when they think it is weak.
 
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