Toyota Tundra Forums banner

went shopping for a 27F battery today (results inside)

149K views 62 replies 35 participants last post by  Jonesy  
Stick with atleast a 27F-72 (72 is heavier than a 60 and is also a 72month warranty) If you have accessories, winch, speakers, aftermarket lighting etc, i would use a optima yellow top, it has reserve power to run those accessories. The 24f(cause it is smaller) will fit but is not recommended for larger trucks. The cca is the starting power in the cold. you want atleast 700cca. Funny thing people do not understand about batteries is heat is worse than the cold for a battery, and the "insulators" are more for hotter climates. Batteries are a perishable item, so the younger the better. There are only a few manufactures, most of of mexico now, but a gel cell or AGM is better for life and power, safety, also more expensive.
Honestly, I run what Me and my Dad ( opened battery specialist in 84 )( opened exide in alaska in the 90's, now opened deka up here. ) call Refurbs, used batteries (yr or newer ) that came in to our shop that when charged still held a good load. People often leave lights on which discharges the battery, making it "dead" a new battery that has been discharged can be fully charged and brought back to almost as good as new, im sure you will lose some CCA, but in most instances if will be perfectly fine. Another good thing when battery shopping, If your cables are long enough, and the battery fits in the tray, ANY battery will work. Make sure it has enough CCA however, I have done/seen many mods to accommodate cheaper or even larger batteries, a simple bungee cord will suffice, if your battery comes out, you have more worries than a simple battery.
 
27f also has more reserve than 24f..... here is the issue with heaviest group 24F, They are a smaller dimension, but have a lot of lead plates, therefore less acid, less cooling, less life, also know as acid starved. The 27F is bigger with more acid, meaning longer battery life. the heaviest 27F i have seen is around 800cca and the heaviest 24f is about 750cca. the heavier 24f has less life/warranty.
 
My 2002 V8 Tundras battery is finally going bad..... It is a 27R as it was part of a "weather" package. The battery is 8 years 9 months old (truck has 63,000 miles on it)
I am in a cold climate (can get into the negative digits)

Does anyone know where to get a 27R or a 27F...... In Bend Oregon (before I drive to costco, wally world, sears ETC)

And what is the difference between the 27 "R" and the 27 "F"

Thanks in advance
The "R" and the "F" have the same "Reversed Terminal" Meaning
 
I have a few questions for the battery people in here. I have the stock Toyota battery in my 06 Dcab, with All Weather Package and Tow package. I know one of those options upgraded to a heavy duty battery.
When I bought the truck last June with 26K on it, the battery was causing puffy green corrosion on the mounting brace, and spilling down the sides of the battery, onto and over the tray, and onto the paint underneath. I thought it was just lack of maintenance and cleaned up the battery and surrounding area.

So, 8k miles later, its doing it all over again, and this time I can tell that it looks like the battery is out-gassing or something, because the top of the battery around the vents looks damp and collecting dust.
Also, the battery check window is black.

So does all this mean its time to replace the battery?
If so, what options do I have for a completely sealed unit that will not need vents?
What exactly does the 27F mean? I am pretty sure mine says 27R...
I am only used to choosing a battery by how high the CCAs are…

I battery Eye being black means it is discharged, or going bad, still might work for awhile while black but it is a maintenance free indicator that the battery is bad. The corrosion build up is normal, It is cause but the gasses venting from being worked. It was be worked "too hard" which will meaning more gasses venting and will eventually evaporate your acid. Cold water and a scrub brush is an easy method to clean this up. then make pads and spray to help prevent corrosion. Corrosion is bad but it you let it get out of control it will cause a poor connection to your battery, if you are having starting problems check your connection first to make sure they are clean an tight. every battery has a vent so in most cases all battery terminals corrode. Mileage has nothing to do with battery life, actually the more you drive the longer the life assuming your alternator is good. Batteries are meant to be used and charged. Letting your battery just sit there, cold or warm, is the worst thing for it. If you aren't using your battery, such as seasonal vehicles, put a small 2amp automatic charge on it until you use the battery again, the auto feature will not let it over charge and will greatly prolong the life or your battery.
 
i know you are probably trying to be helpful, but what you have failed to do is read the entire thread. had you read the thread, you'd have learned that most of us find it nearly impossible to find a 27F locally, and if we do its at the Yota dealer. and that 27F at the Yota dealer has LESS CCA than the abundant 24Fs we are finding in just about every vendor in town. as far as your optima experience, good for you. there are probably just as many of us here that had crap experiences with them as those that have had good experiences with them. i believe there was a rather popular thread here about those batts that pretty much summed up that at least 50% of those that shared their experiences thought they sucked.

at the end of the day, american quality of just about anything has declined over the years...my grandma has a microwave from the early 80's that still works, however I've gone through three of them in 11 years. water heaters used to be built with better quality steal tanks, but not anymore. same goes for batteries. so i'll continue to buy an affordable batt that has a good warranty that can be easily replaced at a walmart in just about any town in America, and pass on getting a special order batt for twice the price that may or may not have a longer warranty and won't be in stock if i need to replace it.
My optima was also a original, made in usa. You are very correct though in your explanation, a group 24 will do just fine. I wouldn't personally go on a man hunt for a27 when a 24 if right there. Also, any battery can be a dud no matter the specs. Just like anything else.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App