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Check out this page TUNDRA LIFT and go to PART # TUN 275AD. Every other lift/leveling kit I've seen requires a spring compressor how come this one doesn't? Also the price seems to good to be true. What do yall think?
 

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It doesn't require a spring compressor because this lift is a spacer that installs on top of the top plate. It is bolted to the top plate and then you bolt it to the truck.

I'm not much a fan of spacer lifts on this truck.
 

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The Problem Ive had with this lift on my truck, is that the ball joint knocks on the spring when hitting speed bumps and such. I think the looks out weigh the negatives. Took me about an hour to do the front spacers.


BTW Imdone, your truck is so awesome
 

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Check out this page TUNDRA LIFT and go to PART # TUN 275AD. Every other lift/leveling kit I've seen requires a spring compressor how come this one doesn't? Also the price seems to good to be true. What do yall think?
I agree the price does seem too good to be true that's what I thought but I own the kit and i'm very pleased with it talk to Hank he's the owner of the company he'll set you straight he'll explain why the price is so inexpensive
 

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have fun with your CV's if you get a spacer lift.[/quote
you'll have no problem with a spacer lift as long as you install a diff drop
 

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This is by far the worst way to lift a truck. It's very cheap for a reason. This type of lift puts a lot of stress on the upper ball joint especially if you go over 2". At full droop your struts will over extend. So if you plan on doing any offroading at all I would steer clear. If you're always on the streets, then it should be fine.
 

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Don't plan on going offroad just going for looks and I'm happy with that
 

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BTW Imdone, your truck is so awesome

Thanks.



I don't like spacer lifts, They aren't garbage, if you lift less than 2" you will be okay, if you add a diff drop then you will be golden.

The whole CV boot leakage issue has been around since this truck was made. If you do a search you will see them back as far as 2002.

The boots have clamps that are sometimes too loose or too tight and they tear, usually they are too loose, you can fix this with a couple different solutions and they are not always due to lifting your truck.

I have seen plenty of posts on this forum over the last 6 years from trucks that have leaky CVs and they dont have any lift. My service tech buddy at the local Toy Dealer has seen plenty without lifts that are leaking.

The lift is either aluminum or steel, they are strong enough not to cause any problems, go with a smaller lift rather than a taller lift when it comes to a spacer.
 

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Hello everyone, I 'm a newbie, I have been reading all the postings on spacer lifts for a few years and finally decided to try them last month on my 06 Tundra Double Cab, I didn't really like the idea of using add-a-leafs , A friend of mind told me about a web site called lift-concepts.com
that carries a 3” lift that includes a rear block kit instead of the add-a-leafs, I purchased there kit it came with everything I needed , ( front spacers, a diff. drop kit, rear bock kit and all new hardware)
I paid 211.95 + shipping for it. I was able to install it in my drive way in about 3 hrs and 4 beers.
I don’t like messing with leaky cv boots so to avoid the problem before it may start I cut off the stock cv boot bands off and replaced them with hose clamps, I have been driving the truck every day on and off road
for a month now and couldn’t be happier. I also have a 3” body lift and was able to run 35” tires.
I did have to change my rear shocks, I went with rancho RS9000 they are 2” longer then stock and have a knob on them so they can be adjusted for the ride you need on or off road.
 

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Sheez dude, you have a $35k truck? And then you go with the ultimate poor boy lift. Chuck the body lift and spacer junk and spend some coin on quality...
 

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Back in 99 I had a Tacoma TRD I installed adjustable coil overs and raised the truck 3" as the ad said I could, I never took the truck off road, I only used it to drive 20 miles to work and then back home after 2 weeks the lower rubber bushing split in half, I called the manufacter and the gave me what they said would be better bushings, I spent about 4 hrs installing them and 2 weeks later had the same problem, It wasn't only splitting the bushing that bothered me, but also the ride was so stff it felt like even if I ran over a dime in the street the truck would bounce, I pulled the coil overs out and sold them for 500.00 I paid 1100.00 at the time I bought them, After doing a little research I found that Trailmaster had a 6" lift, So I tried it after it was installed they could not aline the front and told me the truck was so light I didnt need to worry about it. At 10,000 miles the front end was leaking grease from the additional struts needed for the lift, I took one look at that and cleaned the truck like new and traided it in on a 2000 Tundra
I installed a 3' body lift, lift lips and a 3" Suspension lift a friend made for me and drove the truck over 150,000 miles and never had a problem, Other then everyone that had a Tundra would almost run into me as we drove down the street trying to ask me where I got the lift.
I was the first person in Orange County California that could run 35" Superswampers. I sold that $35000,00 truck with 150,000 miles on it for $42,0000.
 

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Hello everyone, I 'm a newbie, I have been reading all the postings on spacer lifts for a few years and finally decided to try them last month on my 06 Tundra Double Cab, I didn't really like the idea of using add-a-leafs , A friend of mind told me about a web site called lift-concepts.com
that carries a 3” lift that includes a rear block kit instead of the add-a-leafs, I purchased there kit it came with everything I needed , ( front spacers, a diff. drop kit, rear bock kit and all new hardware)
I paid 211.95 + shipping for it. I was able to install it in my drive way in about 3 hrs and 4 beers.
I don’t like messing with leaky cv boots so to avoid the problem before it may start I cut off the stock cv boot bands off and replaced them with hose clamps, I have been driving the truck every day on and off road
for a month now and couldn’t be happier. I also have a 3” body lift and was able to run 35” tires.
I did have to change my rear shocks, I went with rancho RS9000 they are 2” longer then stock and have a knob on them so they can be adjusted for the ride you need on or off road.

why did you change your rear shocks? I didn't change mine, should I? would like to see pics of your truck with 35's and was the body lift hard to install I'm sure it looks badass

nothing wrong with poor boy lift kit to each their own I'm happy with my spacer kit truck drives great looks tough just not sure if I need shocks if I do purchase shocks I'm looking at bilstein 5100 what do you think about them
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok so after hearing and reading more and more I don't think I want to go with the spacers, just seem like a cheap way out. Now I don't plan on doing crazy off-road, but I do take my truck on some fun trails from time to time, plus I plan on keeping this baby till the wheels fall of so I want to put quality on it. Looking at these Camburg Coilover Shocks and Upper Control Arms - Wheeler's Off-Road, Inc , somewhat expensive but it seems like they are high quality and from what I have found have great reviews. Now do they just lift the truck because they are taller, or is it the adjustable part?
 

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This is a reply to BLOWN 86, If your not toping the shocks out on the up strock then you should be fine, I changed mine to longer shocks because I was toping out, The stock shocks would have worked but I felt I didn't want to drive a truck that was at it's limit on travel plus with the Rancho RS9000 you can adjust the ride for the condition you might be driving under, You can set them at zero for a soft ride on the street or firm for off road or hauling heavy loads, When you run Ranchos with add-a-leafs and set them at zero it takes a lot of the stiffnest out of the ride.
 
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