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The M.F.I.C.
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Hey fellas... Trying to install my aftermarket seat-heaters...

I tried tapping into the constant 12v source-wire going into the stereo, but apparently it's not cutting it, and I'll have to find a better source (I don't know what size fuse they have for that source wire, but it seems like it's not enough, cause it wouldn't work).

I'd rather NOT have to run a wire from the battery if I don't have to... so, What source-wire are you guys using as a constant 12v to run your accessories? I'm sure there's a good one near the wire-cluster at the driver's side kick panel, but I didn't have the patience or the time to look around there today.

Any help would be much appreciated - PICS are always nice if u got em!

AS ALWAYS - points will be handed out for informative & otherwise colorful comments.
 

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There should be unused power sources in the fuse block to tap into. Use a test light to find if it is keyed or constant 12v. It's easier than running a wire to the battery or finding a power wire under the dash and splicing into it.
 

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popo, one of the 12v outlets is switched and the other is on a 2 hr delay. those should be fused probally the highest of the circuits in the truck anyway, plus those would be super easy to get to. also, im assuming u looked, are there any prewired plugs under the carpet for the 12v for the power seats? never know whats prewired or not..oh but those would not be switched..never mind. dont tap into the bright yellow ones though...:) but u should be able to get it at the 12v outlet.

and im curious as to why they didnt work. the size of the fuse wont have anything to do with if they work or not...unless you overloaded it and popped the fuse....but 12v is 12v....if it didnt pop the fuse, u should get them to work....good luck and keep us posted...u go with the rectangular switches or the round ones?
 

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Go with unused source from the fuse box. Things like seat heaters are going to suck away a lot of wattage and may adversely affect the other components powered by another line that you're tapping in to. Optionally go with a line (fused) from the battery. Either way, it isn't a big deal to do. You have a number of options and at worst you would need to drill a small hole through the firewall to wire it under the driver/passenger side kick panels and sills to get it under the seats...
 

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You can use the constant 12 volts at the trailer brake controller connector above the drivers kick. If you want a switched 12 volts, I would use the same source but wire in a relay controlled by the wire at the cigarette lighter. This will give you 30 amps.
 

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The M.F.I.C.
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Discussion Starter #7
Perhaps I'm not understanding, but what is wrong with the under-console source?
The seat heaters require a constant 12v lead, a ground, and then an "accessory" or turn-on lead. The constant lead wire has a 40amp fuse block wired in... awesomebase is right that these draw alot of power. I attempted to use the 12v constant lead that runs the radio (since I'm familiar with it and it's easy to find...) but it apparently doesn't have enough current, since it didn't work. Of course, I found that out after I put everything back together, so I'm not really happy at the moment.

So, I was hoping to find another power source inside the cab that was easy to get to. There are empty spots in the fuse block inside the engine compartment, but I was hoping to find something inside the cab, as I don't really feel like drilling a hole in the firewall unless I absolutely have to. I took a look at the main electrical line's hole-grommet today, and it's tight as a (insert pun), so with my patience at an all time low (19 month & a newborn at the house) I don't know how much I'll have left to try to snake a wire through.

I was just hoping someone already tried this and/or knows of a lead that's easily accessible before I go that route...

Barney- Well, I ordered the "rectangular" switches instead of the round ones, since the guy said they'd fit. Turns out they're about 1.5 times the size of the cut-out. I contacted him, and he says "oh, just trim the panel..." But it's seriously not even close and I'm not gonna go that route. So, he says he's gonna find one that fits, or send the round ones. It's too bad, cause these switches look fantastic... they even have the proper color illumination. Oh, and since this guy's in China (stupid ebay!) I'll probably have to wait another 2-3 weeks for it to arrive. So, I'm just trying to get everything pre-wired so I can just wire the toggles into the dash-plate once they get in. I'll be sure to post pics, as it'll include my Clazzios that I just put in.
 

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The M.F.I.C.
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Discussion Starter #9
Go with unused source from the fuse box. Things like seat heaters are going to suck away a lot of wattage and may adversely affect the other components powered by another line that you're tapping in to. Optionally go with a line (fused) from the battery. Either way, it isn't a big deal to do. You have a number of options and at worst you would need to drill a small hole through the firewall to wire it under the driver/passenger side kick panels and sills to get it under the seats...
Thanks awesomebase! I used your suggestion and ran a wire into the fusebox. Getting through the rubber grommet in the firewall was a PIA, until I made a home-made hollow punch that pierced it (used a Bic pen casing, cut it to a point... like a prison shiv!).

Anyhow, that gave me the power I needed and everything's wired up... now I'm just waiting on my new switches to arrive so I can actually use them!

OH - I tried to send you some points Base... but it says I hafta spread the love first! :beavbutt:
 

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Thanks awesomebase! I used your suggestion and ran a wire into the fusebox. Getting through the rubber grommet in the firewall was a PIA, until I made a home-made hollow punch that pierced it (used a Bic pen casing, cut it to a point... like a prison shiv!).

Anyhow, that gave me the power I needed and everything's wired up... now I'm just waiting on my new switches to arrive so I can actually use them!

OH - I tried to send you some points Base... but it says I hafta spread the love first! :beavbutt:
Glad I could help! Sorry to hear about the switches... I know the frustration with going in to a project full steam and then having to be held up by something mundane!! BTW, I feel your pain... I have a son that is 3yrs4months and a 9-month old daughter, so spending any kind of extra time doing this is just plain frustrating. I'd rather be spending my time with them, but at least when its done, its done! And my son is old enough to help in his own way and participate when I'm doing the work. I try to get him to hand me the tools (i.e. sockets and wrenches) when I'm working on something in the truck and he is pretty good at that, but can get bored between tool changes! :beach:
Anyhow, thanks for trying to get me points, they're always welcome!! I can't wait to see pics of the seats and the install once its done! OH, BTW, just wanted to let you know... it gets easier on the nerves after the first couple of holes you have to drill (I know, I keep asking myself what am I doing when I'm taking a drill to my new truck). But keep in mind, it is well worth doing... did it for the rear-door speaker wire, the amp wire in the firewall, and the other audio/alarm wire installation... but wouldn't have done it any differently! Enjoy!
 

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Good job popo...BTW, I used a tire plug tool (the one with the slit in it) looped my wire through it and jabbed it through the big firewall grommet. It was sharp enough to poke through the grommet but small enough not to let any thing else pass through like fumes, heat, etc.
 

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I thot they were pre-wired for power seats & heaters. Mine came with P/S and heaters, (yes in FL. they were well used this winter) installed at "the port" my heater switchs are round and on the side of the seats. I wanted to put them on the dash in the reg spot , but never followed thru. Under the seats looks like a spagetti factory for all the wiring, with several open plugs.
 

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The M.F.I.C.
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Discussion Starter #13
I thot they were pre-wired for power seats & heaters. Mine came with P/S and heaters, (yes in FL. they were well used this winter) installed at "the port" my heater switchs are round and on the side of the seats. I wanted to put them on the dash in the reg spot , but never followed thru. Under the seats looks like a spagetti factory for all the wiring, with several open plugs.
Yes - mine are pre-wired, although I don't have any clue as to which wires would be for the power seats, heated-seats, etc... also, there's no harnesses or wiring going to the blanks in the dash for the switches, so that would have to be added as well.

In short - better off adding aftermarket wiring IMO
 
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