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did a swap of my spark plugs,>> the old ones were all denso iridiums, put in ngk ix. took four hours but i cleaned all the coils and put on anti seize on the new sparks, despite the being suggested antisieze wasn't required. the ones on the drivers side took a little longer cause of all the fuel, brake, and vacum lines being sort of in the way along with a neighbor coming over and chating me up. but i also took my time and made sure not to cross the threads and torqued every thing down properly, i thought of indexing them but rather they be snug as opposed to indexed and to loose. now i need an oil change. the belt is sqeaking a bit. other wise she seems to be purring. i have a 4.7 v8 double cab 4wd with 109999 miles on her.
I finally changed my oil at 110,165 with some royal purple 5w-30 (can't find penzoil ultra any more) thought i would try it out and am quite pleased with it so far, but can i really go safely for 10,000 miles on this oil, have an oil filter garanteeing 10,000 protection if i can go that long before an oil change i won't have change oil til this time next year. which would be awesome.
also was pissed to discover when toyota did the coating to my frame they took off my engine cover/skid plate and only put 4 new bolts in stead of 5 old or new bolts, but it went in with 5. so i will have to go ***** at them.
 

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Drove him to the liquor store for some "refreshments".
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa........:clown:
 

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Huh...Again, not sure if it was a fluke, but I had a couple days where my MPG was high around 18MPG, right after I pulled the one drum off to inspect the brakes...Then I started using the ebrake again, and it dropped...IIRC, we also had some rain over a couple days, then...

Ever since then, i try to park on level ground and not use the ebrake...When I DO use the ebrake, when first starting to go somewhere, I have also been driving forward a few feet, then reversing a few feet, back and forth a couple times before driving, to try to loosen up the shoes just in case the ebrake is freezing. Mileage is still pretty consistent at 15.5-16.5MPGs though...And the vibration has just started over the past few days... I guess I also need to pull the drums soon and get going on adjusting/taking a look at the ebrake closer...

The other thing is, my tires were never match balanced, so (I'm thinking) there has always been some vibration from that...Would vibration from out of balance tires be magnified during braking?...Especially hard braking?...The vibration gets worse the harder I lay on the brakes...
Mine does it under light braking and at slow speed. Really weird. Did not get an opportunity to pull the rear wheels and drums today so will shoot for tomorrow.
 

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Finally got the 5100's and gave her a lube job. Im lovin the new feel of the ride, I just want to get bigger tires now!!

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recharged the k+n drop in filter, took her for a ride and can feel a better thottle response. it been about 10000 since last recharge of filter.
 

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The dealership I work at is getting all new flush machines and products and they needed a Toyota to demonstrate on, so my Ol girl received a trans flush, p/s flush, rad. Flush, brake flush and a injection cleaning all for free


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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when toyota did the coating to my frame they took off my engine cover/skid plate and only put 4 new bolts in stead of 5 old or new bolts, but it went in with 5. so i will have to go ***** at them.
Manufacturers run their bolts dry, and the service department doesn't grease them. Those particular bolts rust, seize, break, and the tack welds come loose inside the frame if they're not properly addressed. There's a good chance at least one is rusted to the point it won't accept a bolt, which is what I'd guess is the reason they left one out. Check to be sure, pull every bolt, run the correct tap up the nut to clear it out, add a light coat of grease to each bolt, and reinstall.
 

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Manufacturers run their bolts dry, and the service department doesn't grease them. Those particular bolts rust, seize, break, and the tack welds come loose inside the frame if they're not properly addressed. There's a good chance at least one is rusted to the point it won't accept a bolt, which is what I'd guess is the reason they left one out. Check to be sure, pull every bolt, run the correct tap up the nut to clear it out, add a light coat of grease to each bolt, and reinstall.
I prefer to use a copper or nickel based anti-seize on those threads.
When I purchased my truck used with 96k miles, the skid plate had 3 of the 5 bolts, all seized halfway in, and 2 broken off, that I had to drill and re-tap.
No mechanic loves your truck as much as you do.... :lol:

Jim
 

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Leer 100R installed today. $2k with sliding windoors x2, front boot, 3-outlet 12v power at the rear of the shell, and sales tax. I think it was $1300 base. Unfortunately, because I have a stepside there are only two shells available - the Leer 100R and the ARE Z which was $500 more base price. Those ARE Z's are very nice and I like the clean lines of the rear window and the latching mechanism, but $500 is $500.

Stone blue, I bought the two tailgate hinge assemblies at the dealer ($27.28 each) and installed them, tailgate is nice and tight now (Toy PN's 66110-OC012 (right), 66120-OC012 (left)). Still need to weatherstrip to keep dust out of the shell, but the tailgate doesn't shift around at the bottom anymore. The bottom Torx bolts were rusted but came out ok, thank goodness. White greased them on the install (don't have any anti-seize, Ssizler, but I do have plenty of white grease!).

Got the rear diff breather mod union and breather Toy PN 90404-51319 (union) and 90930-03136 (breather), $12.48. Since I have a shell I guess I'll run it up through the oval plastic plug at the rear of the bed and secure it onto the shell. Since I have new rear axle seals this will go along just great with them.

On a side note, the Toy dealer got pounded by hail a week ago (as well as the Jeep dealer, the Subaru dealer, the Chevy dealer, the Mitsubishi dealer, the Mercedes dealer, the Lexus dealer, etc., and a couple of used car dealers). Every single vehicle has about 30-40 dimples in it. Can you imagine standing there in the showroom watching your entire new and used inventory decrease in value by $10k each? That has to be a sickening feeling. I wonder if the dealers actually recoup their losses from insurance. There's always a deductible they have to pay, right?
 

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Got my 3rd amp back in last night. This time the power supply didn't short! Tonight the PA speakers arrive and I will post pictures. Mounts for the speakers into the bed rail are being fabbed this weekend... Get ready to PARTY!
 

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For now.... no mounts...

IMG_2140.jpg

Approximately what each will look like.

IMG_2141.jpg
 

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I installed an intermittent wiper switch (OEM) and an old LG Ally re-purposed for powertrain monitoring using the Torque Pro Android app. Also collected some more "garnish"; the large tufts of weeds that catch in the plow mount brackets when driving thru the long grass, reminiscent of a walrus with a negative orbit trajectory over the kelp beds... reminds me of that Larson one about Popeye on the dating scene; he and his girl are parked at an overlook and she's thinking "Oh my God. He's got something green stuck between his teeth."
 

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Used it to haul my new paddle board to the lake. Beautiful day and lots of fun.

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I finally changed my oil at 110,165 with some royal purple 5w-30 (can't find penzoil ultra any more) thought i would try it out and am quite pleased with it so far, but can i really go safely for 10,000 miles on this oil, have an oil filter garanteeing 10,000 protection if i can go that long before an oil change i won't have change oil til this time next year. which would be awesome.
also was pissed to discover when toyota did the coating to my frame they took off my engine cover/skid plate and only put 4 new bolts in stead of 5 old or new bolts, but it went in with 5. so i will have to go ***** at them.
If Royal Purple says so, I'd go with it. They're not in business to cause failures and they've been in business for a long time with a lot of return customers. I use Amsoil Signature Series and it's rated for 25k miles or 12 months whichever comes first. 15k miles or 12 months for severe service. All top end synthetics like Mobil1 Extended Life or whatever it's called, Royal Purple, Amsoil, they aren't afraid to say they will hold up with extended change intervals, and I believe them, they've been in business a long time with proven track records.

They're expensive at apx $9/qt, but worth it IMO. Cold starts like at -20F they're worth it. Put conventional in with below zero starts and you can literally hear the valves rattling for 5 seconds waiting for lubrication, synthetic nope. Same goes for synthetic in the driveline, especially with manual transmissions, those manuals love synthetic on below zero days.

I use the Amsoil EA15K51 oil filters, they're rated to work with the Signature Series 5w30 to get the maximum change intervals. They filter out quite a bit more than paper filters, especially the smaller particles. You can use Toyota OEM filters, but you'd have to change them at the OEM intervals of what 5k miles? The EA15K51 costs $15 each, but at three or four times the change interval as an OEM filter at $5 each you're not getting ripped off.

I've used Mobil1 synthetic, never Royal Purple, but I'm sure they're excellent oils. The filters, all the guys like Fram, etc., they have "premium" grade filters from what I know, but I just prefer the Amsoil EA's.
 

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Looked sternly at the CRE flexible universal mudflaps for the rear. Marked the drill points with a yellow wax pencil. Found some used shock bushings in the garage that will suffice for spacers. Went to Ace hardware and bought some 2" bolts that should fit through the spacers and thread into the OEM nylon nuts. 1 3/4" would probably work better, but Ace only had 1 1/2" or 2".

It's amazing how difficult it is to put flexible mudflaps on later model trucks. There's this trend to hard plastic molded for some reason, and they don't work worth a damn offroad over rocks. The last good mudflap I saw on a Toyota truck was the 1st Gen Tacoma. Well, I'll get it fixed up front and rear, just takes a little time.
 

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Finally back from vacation in Orlando, Fla, seems to be a bunch more Tundras down there than here in Columbus Ohio. The first thing I do to my Tundra when I get home is put the Battery on charge, I parked it 15 days ago. It always amazes me how much the charger is cranking out. The charger peaked at 50 amps & after 20 minutes it's still putting out 20 amps
 

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Scored a good deal on some new front and rear shocks a little over a week ago, so I put them on my DC today. Got myself a set of Rancho "ready lift" RS9000's for the front and another set of RS9000's for the rear. Total cost $316. I also threw in a set of Wheelers 1-1/2" rear lift springs for good measure. I set the damping on all the shocks to their highest setting and I'm really happy with the ride quality so far. It finally rides more like a truck, not a Camry.
 
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