Toyota Tundra Forums banner

11341 - 11360 of 11382 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Replaced RS3000 ecu with upgraded to the newer OEM key fob. Replaced entire windshield wiper system. Upgraded all exterior lights to LED from VLEDS. Replaced rear speakers. Replaced tailgate handle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
I refinished my headlights & installed LED bulbs.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
This was about a year ago. New Pioneer Avic 7200NEX Navigation Head Unit.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
About 6 months ago. New Shoes.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
About 4 months ago. Bilstein 6112 front & Bilstein 5160 rear with Wheeler's Offroad Add-a-leafs.

1: Bilstein 6112 front with Bilstein spring.
2: Bilstein 6112 vs 5100
3: Bilstein 6112 vs 5100
4: Bilstein 5160 vs 5100
5: Bilstein 6112 vs Monroe that I replaced.
6: Bilstein 6112 installed.
7: Bilstein 5160 & add-a-leafs installed.
8: With the new Bilsteins & add-a-leafs.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
About 4 months ago. Shiny new Borla exhaust to replace the rusting franken muffler.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
About 4 months ago. Bilstein 6112 front & Bilstein 5160 rear with Wheeler's Offroad Add-a-leafs.

1: Bilstein 6112 front with Bilstein spring.
2: Bilstein 6112 vs 5100
3: Bilstein 6112 vs 5100
4: Bilstein 5160 vs 5100
5: Bilstein 6112 vs Monroe that I replaced.
6: Bilstein 6112 installed.
7: Bilstein 5160 & add-a-leafs installed.
8: With the new Bilsteins & add-a-leafs.
My 5100's are destroyed my front tires with really bad cupping. They can't even take little bumps in the road. How do the 6112's compare to the 5100's?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
My 5100's are destroyed my front tires with really bad cupping. They can't even take little bumps in the road. How do the 6112's compare to the 5100's?

I've had Bilsteins on all my past Toyotas & never had a problem. I had to replace a set after about 130,000 miles on one of my vehicles when it started leaking.


To be honest I only have 200-300 miles on the 6112 because my CV boots tore & I haven't replaced them yet. That's my next project. The on-road ride is great. I can take dips & speed bumps without slowing down. Can't wait to try a washboard road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I finally ordered some cheap LEDs off eBay, and last night I replaced the large bulbs on the back of the gauge cluster, and behind the heater controls. Only one was working on the dash, and all the large ones on the heater control had toasted themselves.

The speedo cluster is relatively easy to extract--there are lots of Youtube vids; basically it is on 10mm bolt under the key, and two screws at the top of the bezel. With the bezel out, it is four screws to remove the cluster and four wire clips. I found it easier to remove it and work on the flat with the bulbs. The little green socks came off the old bulbs easily; I tried it with plain white, and took it back out and put the green socks back on.

Heater/stereo is two screws in the top of the air vents and screws behind each of the heater control knobs which are a straight pull off. It is a little harder to snap out--use a good blunt pry tool to go around the edge. Again I found it easier to take it completely out to do the bulbs. For these the green 'socks' were in much worse condition, so one is white and two are green.

Make sure you test before buttoning up--the little wires on the bulbs are like Christmas tree light bulbs (flimsy) and I found it seemed to help to bend the little brass tabs on the bulb holders up a little to make more positive contact.

But I can now see in the cab at night!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Last Sunday, 4/7/19-
I'll offer a narrative so that anyone looking for tank drop info can gain some insight...

What was done:
Dropped the gas tank, replaced the siphon plate gasket. Gasket was cracked, Obd code P0442, small vacuum leak, and dripping gas with a full tank with the truck front downhill.

Used a lift and transmission jack to do the work.

Ran fuel low until the low fuel light came on.

Pulled fuel pump relay, ran truck until the engine shut of.. just a few seconds.

Left the large evap hoses attached to tank, didn't want to break 16 yr. old plastic rings. Evap canister came out with the tank.

Cross pin was rusted into the rear strap, outboard side, didn't want to chance breaking the attached bracket - frame bolt, so just bent the strap down & out of the way. The rest of the stuff came out fine, no problems disconnecting any lines. Despite being in Connecticut, my truck isn't very rusty- I spent many summer afternoons every year de-rusting and rustproofing, The advent of Fluid Film was a big step forward... I digress. Disconnected in stages: straps-filler neck-vent line-evap bracket- gas lines- wrapped rag around the feed line- still quite a bit gas in it!-, dropped down some more, pump & solenoid wires, abs wiring connector at back of tank, slip-on evap lines at canister & purge, drop a bit more, unclip wiring harness connectors across tank top. Put a ratchet strap around the tank for security.
Drop out, move tank to the floor.

The tank exterior was rust-free, but the siphon plate tank flange had some creeping rust, outside-in, which made lumps. No loose flakes, I didn't want to deal with rust falling into the tank, so I just wiped it off. Gasket was cracked through everywhere.

Put a new gas pick-up sock and rubber bumper (goes on the the pump bracket, holds the pump in place...). Side note- the sock retainer is a tiny metal tinnerman (toothed ring) fastener- don't lose it when gently prying it off and pushing it back on!

The siphon plate was rust-free.... so I used old-school Permatex fuel proof gasket maker (aka "black death")on both sides of the new gasket to reassemble. Torqued the 8 flange clamping screws to 20 in-lb, zig-zag pattern. Factory number is 31 in-lb; would have been too much - plate defection, gasket squeeze-out, for my particular parts. Judgement call.

Reverse to reinstall. Getting the tank up & tight enough to the frame, in order to get the tank retainer straps reattached, pins in, was a royal PIA. Had to really press with the trans jack to lift the tank and wiggle the tank around to find the sweet spot... and was worried about denting the tank.
Note- this is a 4wd truck with the plastic tank "skid plate bucket", so there was a lot of "squeeze factor" involved.

Got it all done, so far so good. The only casualty was the little ABS connector bracket that is peripherally attached to the rear tank flange - the steel bracket strap that holds the chassis-side half of the connector crumbled. The connector should be secured- I'm sure that the wiring would eventually break if it remained flapping around. The bracket is part of the axle section of the ABS wiring harness. I'm not going to buy a new harness just for the bracket, so I'll make my own stainless piece, probably an l-bracket using the same bracket mounting stud, to secure it.

HTH.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,019 Posts
My p.o.s. Interstate battery died after 30 months. Truck is weekend only driver now and is stored in the garage. I used to swear by Interstate batteries way back when but the last three have been terrible. Went with a NAPA brand Legend series 775 cca for $135. We will see...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Started my front end rebuild. After lifting my truck, the CV boots tore. I was just going to replace the boots, but when I pulled the driver side out, I found that it was not OEM, but some kind of aftermarket unit, so of course the boots I had didn’t fit right. I managed to make an outer boot fit the inner CV joint, but that meant that I now had 2 inner boots. After pondering for awhile, I decided to rebuild the entire front end. So today I pulled the passenger side CV shaft and then I pulled the axle seal. Of course I didn’t know there was a left & a right, and I have 2 left seals. So now I can’t install the new shaft. I did do the lower ball joint & after a lot of pounding, I finally got the brake rotor off. So I did the rotor & pads. I also found that I need another adapter to remove the upper ball joint, so I just ordered that. I also cleaned a lot of the grease that the shredded boots flung all over.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
My 5100's are destroyed my front tires with really bad cupping. They can't even take little bumps in the road. How do the 6112's compare to the 5100's?
What is your alignment like? I've got 20k on my 5100s with no tire issues. I had to do SPC uppers to get my alignment correct though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Today I took out the shift cable because it snapped at the transmission yesterday. Waiting for the new part to get here.

My 5100's are destroyed my front tires with really bad cupping. They can't even take little bumps in the road. How do the 6112's compare to the 5100's?
What is your alignment like? I've got 20k on my 5100s with no tire issues. I had to do SPC uppers to get my alignment correct though.
My alignment is all off now but was aligned when I had them put on. I think the mechanics installed the 5100’s incorrectly. Sadly, I have to pay the price for it...again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
My alignment is all off now but was aligned when I had them put on. I think the mechanics installed the 5100’s incorrectly. Sadly, I have to pay the price for it...again.
I’d be willing to bet that the spring seats are upside down. 4Wheel Parts did that on my 4Runner once. It over compressed the front springs and made the ride very stiff. That’s why I do them myself now.

It's subtle, but if you look at the first pic, the spring seat is installed correctly. The second pic shows the spring seat upside down. The 3rd pic shows how the front was too high with the upside down spring seat.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
I’d be willing to bet that the spring seats are upside down. 4Wheel Parts did that on my 4Runner once. It over compressed the front springs and made the ride very stiff. That’s why I do them myself now.

It's subtle, but if you look at the first pic, the spring seat is installed correctly. The second pic shows the spring seat upside down. The 3rd pic shows how the front was too high with the upside down spring seat.
Thanks for the info!
They are installed correctly. The driver side is missing the top bushing and it looks like they put 2 upper mounts (rubber pieces) on and the passenger side the top nut isn’t tight and the washer rattles around a lot. Ugh, so much for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Thanks for the info!
They are installed correctly. The driver side is missing the top bushing and it looks like they put 2 upper mounts (rubber pieces) on and the passenger side the top nut isn’t tight and the washer rattles around a lot. Ugh, so much for that.

Here's the installation diagram for the front shocks. Hope you can get them corrected soon! Good Luck!


If you have a 4wd, you probably don't want to go more then 1.5" - 2".
 

Attachments

11341 - 11360 of 11382 Posts
About this Discussion
11.4K Replies
610 Participants
UPbuilder
Toyota Tundra Forums
Tundra Solutions Forum - the best community to talk, mods, price, repair and research your Toyota!
Full Forum Listing
Top