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I got the correct CV axle oil seal for the passenger side, so I was able to install the new Toyota CV Axle. Tomorrow I’ll do the driver’s side with a new Toyota CV axle.
 

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Changed out original spark plugs in 2005 Tundra with 135,000 miles on it. I went with Denso Iridium TT plugs, optimistically hoping that they can somehow find another mpg or two somewhere in the 4.7 liter V8 :flypig:
 

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Why is everything soooo clean? ^^^^^

Partially because my torn CV boots puked CV grease all over the place & I spent an hour or so cleaning it up. Also because half the parts are new :grin2:



New shock & spring, sway bar end bushings, lower Ball joint, CV shaft, brake rotor & pads. Will also be doing the upper ball joints, tie rod ends, & brake hoses soon.
 

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New Toyota CV axle on the driver’s side. Also Toyota lower ball joint, tie rod end and ceramic brake pads as well as a new Brembo rotor.
 

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Took my boat and trailer to a public scale and weighed my rig:

Front: 2360lbs

Rear: 2800lbs

Trailer/Boat: 6640lbs

Total: 11800lbs

204,000 miles and pulls like new... Yahoo!

Thinking about buying a TRD Pro...:cool:
 

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Well it happened to lots of other people, and I don't know why I missed it, but both end links failed. It took the guys doing the NY State safety test to spot it for me. Meanwhile I'd noticed that the front end was getting a little play in it.

It is a fairly easy job to replace them--except plan on cutting the old ones out--mine were rusted beyond belief and I could not separate the nut at the bottom. (Tops fell out on their own, so that was easy!) The Toyota ones are spendy--$83 on McGeorge, so I went economy with aftermarket ones from the local CarQuest--~$40 for the pair.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-stabilizer-link-4882034010/?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmk9RjgxNzA3MDQmcj0zMSZhPXRveW90YSZvPXR1bmRyYSZ5PTIwMDMmdD1iYXNlJmU9My00bC12Ni1nYXM=

You do need a thin wrench to hold the shaft of the bolt--I modified a bike wrench, since it was nice and thin>

And I did the muffler before the test--bought the economy 'Quiet Flow" version on Amazon for $125 delivered. Can is much smaller than OEM, but all of the mounting brackets lined up nice.

It was also time for my second drain and fill on the auto--it has been quite a few years, and probably 70,000 miles. Pretty dirty fluid coming out, but it did not smell too bad. Took the usual 4 quarts give or take....
 

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Installed front and rear Hellwig sway bars and replaced the left front cv axle Saturday. I welded the rear sway bar brackets to the rear end so they wouldn't move. Handling and ride is so much better now. Next weekend the headers are coming off and going back to stock exhaust, after 7-8 years they are rusting out. I've welded a couple holes near the collectors but there's more that I can't get to. After that the front Bilsteins are coming off and either putting in Kings, Icons, AFE's or Fox coilovers.
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Well after 8 years my headers are rusting out, there's holes near the collectors between the tubes that I can't weld up so this weekend I cut them all out and installed a factory system with a Magnaflow muffler that I had. Got all the parts from Rockauto for under $500 and that's with new cats, I did save the manifolds from when I installed the headers. Sounds good and running great.
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After 16 years of driving my 2002 SR5 around with a LEER cap on the 8 foot bed, I am now driving without a cap. I removed it earlier this week so it can be returned to the factory for warranty repair or replacement... it's great to drive this truck without a cap again, she feels nimble & light on her feet again.
2002SR5.JPG

150222
 

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After 16 years of driving my 2002 SR5 around with a LEER cap on the 8 foot bed, I am now driving without a cap. I removed it earlier this week so it can be returned to the factory for warranty repair or replacement... it's great to drive this truck without a cap again, she feels nimble & light on her feet again. View attachment 150221
View attachment 150222
Hey, just think of it like this. At least you don’t have a leer on the truck for the time being! What’s the warranty work? I’ve had problem after problem with every Leer topper I’ve ever owned, including the 2 I own now. The Leer on my Tundra was on it when I bought it. The other Leer I got for $100 on CL. Can’t complain about the $100 CL find. But the one on my Tundra, someone spent a pretty penny on. All it does is leak and the roof is caved in on it.


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Hey, just think of it like this. At least you don’t have a leer on the truck for the time being! What’s the warranty work?
This one has served me well since it was installed in '03, but the hot Georgia sun has cooked the roof section. There are deep cracks in the structure at the curved areas above the glass door and on the roof... the seals on the large fixed windows are beginning to fail. The clear coat failed a few years ago, but that's not covered under their limited lifetime warranty. I am hoping for a new top, but repair & repaint will be fine.

Driving around cap-less after all of these years is nice, but I have to move my gear to and from a dry & safe location - that's a minor pita.

I do know that there is a correct way to R&R these tops that involves a fork lift, if you don't use the forklift method you are going to have problems down the road.
 

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Just completed a full leather interior install... brand new seat covers with the addition of heated seat pads for the two fronts... pics will follow once the rain lets up!
 

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This one has served me well since it was installed in '03, but the hot Georgia sun has cooked the roof section. There are deep cracks in the structure at the curved areas above the glass door and on the roof... the seals on the large fixed windows are beginning to fail. The clear coat failed a few years ago, but that's not covered under their limited lifetime warranty. I am hoping for a new top, but repair & repaint will be fine.

Driving around cap-less after all of these years is nice, but I have to move my gear to and from a dry & safe location - that's a minor pita.

I do know that there is a correct way to R&R these tops that involves a fork lift, if you don't use the forklift method you are going to have problems down the road.
Yeah mine have all leaked through every glued in window. Every window that opens seals up perfectly. But the permanent windows have all leaked. Can’t complain, haven’t spent much money on them myself, but I don’t think I ever will with my experience with them


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I bought a Lund sunvisor from ebay a few weeks ago, got it painted and installed this week. I know...I know but I'm a kid of the 80's and I like them. Also installed new foglight bulbs, SilverStar Ultra High Performance. I also have some Rancho quicklift shocks and slotted rotors and brakepads to install when I get time. IMG_0326.JPG IMG_0333.JPG IMG_0330.JPG IMG_0334.JPG
 
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