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I am seriously considering buying an 07 DC SR5 5.7 4x4 TRD Tundra and was wondering what other people have paid for there Tundra's and how much they got off of MSRP or any incentives. I was looking for a place to start haggling with my dealers, although I am not sure if there is much wiggle room since it is such a new vehicle. Does anybody know the approximate invoice pricing on these bad boys?
 

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Since you live in Texas, you should get an extra 1k on your trade, and then there is an additional 1k dealer cash involved. So I would figure after incentives about 1500-2000 below invoice would be a good price (if you take into account the 1k for trade).
 

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Too much but they had only been out a couple weeks and my wife gave me approval because she liked it. I paid about $1500 under MSRP or got $1500 extra on my trade however you want to look at it.
 

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You can get close to invoice pricing by subtracting 13% from MSRP.
You should only be paying for the vehicle (and options) plus the delivery charge, plus whatever title/tax/license charges that apply.
Do not pay advertizing fees, paperwork processing fees, dealer prep fees, etc. That's all the dealer's cost of doing business, so read the paperwork carefully and don't let the dealer pass those charges on to you.
Also, do not pay second sticker markup, sometimes called "market adjustment." It's just a dealers way of increasing his profit margin.
If you don't mind spending a few dollars, Consumer Reports has an excellent service that will give you actual dealer cost for a vehicle, all options, etc. That's what I used to get my Dodge Dakota in 2004.
 

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I have had a few dealers at invoice +$500. But, the question becomes what is invoice? THe TDA on the Vehicle Inquiry Reports varies from dealer to dealer. I just looked at one at $708 and the other at $810. Then you have the Wholesale Financial Reserve, (1% of base MSRP), and Holdback, (2% of base MSRP).

So are buyers paying the inflated invoice price? That is almost $2K of questionable items on the invoice.
 

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You can get close to invoice pricing by subtracting 13% from MSRP.
You should only be paying for the vehicle (and options) plus the delivery charge, plus whatever title/tax/license charges that apply.
Do not pay advertizing fees, paperwork processing fees, dealer prep fees, etc. That's all the dealer's cost of doing business, so read the paperwork carefully and don't let the dealer pass those charges on to you.
Also, do not pay second sticker markup, sometimes called "market adjustment." It's just a dealers way of increasing his profit margin.
If you don't mind spending a few dollars, Consumer Reports has an excellent service that will give you actual dealer cost for a vehicle, all options, etc. That's what I used to get my Dodge Dakota in 2004.
So the dealer shouldn't make any money? Not to get into an argument here but I don't know how many businesses stay around like that. Would you go to work for nothing?
 

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I got my truck for approximately $4000 off MSRP.

PM me for details.
 

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I purchased a DC Limited in early February when very few were in stock locally (Tennessee) and there was only one with NAV in the whole region at the time.

My truck MSRP was $42,103 and I paid $39,200 which was 7% below MSRP but still 3.4% above invoice. If you factor in the 2% holdback and a $300 processing fee then the dealer actually made 6.5% total profit, which I felt was fair since we split the difference right down the middle at a time when these trucks were in limited supply and very high demand. None of the other dealers would go lower than MSRP even if they could get the truck, which they couldn't.

The bottom line is that you should only pay the lowest price that is available from the best dealer within a 200-mile radius of your home. Do your homework, find out who has the exact truck you want, then visit a few of the closest showrooms and call all of the other dealers. Keep notes and use this info to bargain. Or if you are lazy then just take the best deal you can get on the spot but be willing to spend a little more than others are paying.
 

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Have not taken delivery, but I have all the paperwork set:

MSRP: $43,446
My Cost: $38,874

w/ TT&L: $41,584.55

Plus the extended warranty I'm getting. This also includes my TRD Dual Exhaust. :tu:
$4500 below MSRP? That would be well below invoice. What is your secret?
 

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I trading in my 06 AC limited and paid $9000 for a DC sr5 trd-offroad 4x4.
 

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I got my truck for approximately $4000 below MSRP.

PM me for details.
 

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CrewMax Limited 2WD 5.7 (ordered)
factory options: 20" alloy wheels; nav; running lights; sonar; moonroof; cold kit; mudguards
port options: mats, spare tire lock
MSRP $43769
paid $39928 + TTL

This was ordered from the internet sales person in a small dealership in the Denver port distribution region so I'm going to have to fly out to pick it up when it arrives. This is the only way I could get a truck that was configured with lots of factory options and next to no port options. I believe that MSRPs in the Gulf States region are inflated because they include high-priced port options so I'm not as impressed at a seemingly larger discount off of MSRP. I really just wanted all of the factory options and I wanted someone that would take the time to look around to try to acquire the color that I wanted so I didn't negotiate much at all.

Comprare this to the most similar truck I could find locally:
Same truck with: nav, tow mirrors, running boards, bed extender, dvd headrest system - MSRP $43,179. There really is only one factory option (nav and perhaps the $975 tow mirrors). No 20" wheels, no moonroof, no running lights, no sonar, no cold kit. If they had loaded this up with these factory options, the truck would have probably carried a $47K MRSP which would have been a big turn-ff. And who knows if I could have gotten them that much off MSRP for a truck hasn't even been built yet.

No thanks. I'll pick the color I want and be very happy to fly out and make the 10 hour drive in my new CrewMax and will enjoy every minute of it.
 

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So the dealer shouldn't make any money? Not to get into an argument here but I don't know how many businesses stay around like that. Would you go to work for nothing?
Didn't mean that at all. I was firm in my negotiations and using the information I got from Consumer Reports, allowed for $1000 profit for the dealer. After all, he has overhead.
I paid $1000 more than it cost the dealer to have it on his lot, taking into account incentives and holdback, and the dealer knew I had these figures with me.
Using my own calculator, I doublechecked the paperwork numbers before I signed, to make sure I wasn't charged for anything "extra," and that the finance charges were as agreed (I had to correct the dealer on the finance charge percentages a coupla times until they matched what he was telling me).
There were no surprises.
 

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Didn't mean that at all. I was firm in my negotiations and using the information I got from Consumer Reports, allowed for $1000 profit for the dealer. After all, he has overhead.
I paid $1000 more than it cost the dealer to have it on his lot, taking into account incentives and holdback, and the dealer knew I had these figures with me.
Using my own calculator, I doublechecked the paperwork numbers before I signed, to make sure I wasn't charged for anything "extra," and that the finance charges were as agreed (I had to correct the dealer on the finance charge percentages a coupla times until they matched what he was telling me).
There were no surprises.
Does the Consumer Reports pkg. include all those numbers like TDA, Financial Reserve, and Holdback?
 
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