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Discussion Starter #1
Title says it all..............I am sure everyone has there favorite product and process.
I am not one to be waxing my truck every weekend, but don't want it to look like crap in 1-2 years.
How do you keep the grill clean....does not take much driving to get the chrome full of bugs.....just soap and water??? daily?? weekly??
Not sure how much scrubbing the chrome can take
Just wondering what to use to keep it shinny and new???

Thanks
 

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Title says it all..............I am sure everyone has there favorite product and process.
I am not one to be waxing my truck every weekend, but don't want it to look like crap in 1-2 years.
How do you keep the grill clean....does not take much driving to get the chrome full of bugs.....just soap and water??? daily?? weekly??
Not sure how much scrubbing the chrome can take
Just wondering what to use to keep it shinny and new???

Thanks
You will have better luck posting this here, in the detailing forum...
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/detailing/

:D :tu:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I should have checked first......seems there are a few threads on this subject

Thanks
 

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Zaino...it's the best...I got my 2004 tacoma mud bunny looking brand new...in one day, and I've kept my corvette looking better than new for 2 years.

it's pricey, but worth it...long-lasting stuff:

www.zainobros.com
 

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Zaino...it's the best...I got my 2004 tacoma mud bunny looking brand new...in one day, and I've kept my corvette looking better than new for 2 years.

it's pricey, but worth it...long-lasting stuff:

www.zainobros.com

I second the Zaino products. Will never use another wax. Great product. Especially for dark colors like Blue, Maroon, Black, etc.
 

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I used Zaino for years but have since switched to Meguiar's NXT. Seems to be just as good and I can get it at the local stores.
 

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I used Zaino for years but have since switched to Meguiar's NXT. Seems to be just as good and I can get it at the local stores.
I started with NXT on my Vette, but was talked in to switching to Zaino...IMHO the difference was positive and noticible for the Zaino. I fell in love with what it did to my finish...not to mention the Zaino products smell veeeery nice:clown:
 

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I'm using Meguiars NXT but I'm interested in trying Klassse All-in-one polish and wax. Zaino is nice but sounds like too complicated and too much work.

Anyone know how good the Klasse All-in-one is?
 

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I have listed products I have personally used.
No Rinse Washing
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine
Conventional Washing
Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.
Drying
Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.
Wheel Cleaners
Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.
Clay Bars
Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.
Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.
Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.
Polishes and compounds
My favorite polishes and compounds are:
Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze
Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
Use by hand:
Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.
By Porter Cable polisher
Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.
Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.
Final Polishes and Glazes
You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.
Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One
Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.
Waxes
As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.
Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba
Sealants
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant
Quick Detail Sprays
You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.
Clearkote's Quikshine
Poorboy's Spray and Gloss
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection
Zaino Z-6 or Z-8
Wax Shop's Slick Stuff
Interior Cleaning Products
I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.
Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.
Interior Protectants
Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-
Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex
Leather-
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)

Miscellaneous
Glass cleaners:
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass
Tire/fenderwell dressing:
Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)
Trim dressing:
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black
Engine Cleaning
1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.
** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **
2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.
3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.
4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.
5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.
6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.
7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.

pics:















Hope this helps!
 

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I'm using Meguiars NXT but I'm interested in trying Klassse All-in-one polish and wax. Zaino is nice but sounds like too complicated and too much work.

Anyone know how good the Klasse All-in-one is?
I use Klasse AIO and it is awesome. Very easy to use and on average gives me about 2 months protection(beading stops), I don't have covered protection so my truck is out 24/7. I've had some friends with cars very oxidized and I've used Klasse AIO and totally rejuvenated the finish with no effort at all. Keep in mind Klasse is a cleaner wax but uses no abrasives, it has a chemical formula that actually does the cleaning. It also leaves no left over residue on the rubber trim. Try searching the car detailing forums and many people swear by it.
 

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I use Klasse AIO and it is awesome. Very easy to use and on average gives me about 2 months protection(beading stops), I don't have covered protection so my truck is out 24/7. I've had some friends with cars very oxidized and I've used Klasse AIO and totally rejuvenated the finish with no effort at all. Keep in mind Klasse is a cleaner wax but uses no abrasives, it has a chemical formula that actually does the cleaning. It also leaves no left over residue on the rubber trim. Try searching the car detailing forums and many people swear by it.
Thanks Pakakz! Looks like I'm going to have to give it a shot. The polish + wax bit is what appeals to me because I don't have the time or equipment to spend hours on detailing and want a quick and effective product (appearance + protection)
 

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If you want a good polish wax that lasts a long time, check out like many said AIO. Also some great alternatives to try are, #21, Poli-Seal, Color-X (actually really good). Be warned though, AIO is a cleaner/sealer of sorts, so it wont last nearly as long as a dedicated sealant. Hardly anyone just puts AIO on the paint, it's mostly used as a polish/cleaner, then topped with a sealant.


Most people are going to say Zaino. Its a great product, but not the only one out there. Duragloss products (#105 and AquaWax) are the exact same formula IMO. They are cheap and available locally. Check Duragloss Car Care Products for the product, and where it is available in your neighborhood. Duragloss #105 with Aquawax every wash will give you the ability to not have to wax the truck more than probably 2-3 times a year. Thats about the longest you can go on a single wax/sealant. Duragloss seems to be what is needed for your application, i'd check that out first.

As far as bugs, if you seal/wax the truck including all the chrome on the front, bugs come off much much easier with little to no effort. You may have to apply the sealant/wax more often on the front though.


Read my detail writeup and detail product list at the top of the page for some great info on how to detail/wax your truck, and what products to use. Try some, then you can make your own decision. We can all tell you what OUR best products are, but every person is different. :tu:

Brandon
 

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Thanks Pakakz! Looks like I'm going to have to give it a shot. The polish + wax bit is what appeals to me because I don't have the time or equipment to spend hours on detailing and want a quick and effective product (appearance + protection)

An old favorite of mine has always been the Klasse Twins topped with PUPP for lighter colored cars as well as darks, but the Twins really make a white or silver car "pop".

The Klasse Twins are Klasse AIO (red bottle) and Klasse SG (sealant glaze in the silver bottle). Those two together are a great combination and so simple to apply. Wipe on, wipe off. Then for that extra "pop" I like to use Four Star Premium Ultimate Paint Protection or PUPP for short. I have yet to find another product that leaves a slickness like PUPP does.

For Klasse AIO you can apply by hand or with PC. You will of course see better results with a PC, but for those without, by hand is fine.

Zaino is a great sealant, and is not complicated to use at all. Infact, you can use both Klasse AIO and Zaino Z2p at the same time. I do it all the time for customers and there is no bonding issues. Do your prep work, wash/clay, polish. Or use AIO as your cleaner/polish. After AIO is buffed off apply Zaino Z2p to the car in very thin layers and let it set up for about 1 hour. I usually clean the interior while it sets up. Then just come back and wipe it off. Zaino couldnt be less complicated. I think what scares people about Zaino is that he has so many different products with all those different numbered codes. Your basic Zaino products are Z2p (sealant) Z7(wash) and Z16 (tire dressing) and Z6-Z8 (detail sprays).

Rule of thumb with Zaino, a little goes a LONG way. Usually if you can see it going on youre using too much. I apply it with a PC and a black finishing pad for a more even and consistent coat. You can put up to 2 layers on the same day, but wait 24 hours before the rest. There is a law of diminished returns with Zaino, but it keeps getting wetter and deeper with every coat.

If you want quick and easy with great results, I would go with the Klasse Twins or Klasse AIO topped by Zaino Z2p.

Hope that helps.

Mark
 

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Jumbo, did you get a new truck?
 

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Hey Brandon,

Yeah, I bought the new Tundra a few weeks ago. Why? Whats up?
 

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Oh, I just remember seeing a different sig last time I talked with you.

What kinda wax you got on that thing? I have heard #21 or Acrylic Jett looks killer on silver.
 

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Over the last few weeks it has about 6 layers of Z2p, and that is topped with about 4 layers of Prima Epic to make it look "wet".

Did you ever call DP and order that Prima Epic?

Mark
 

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I did not yet, but I know I have too. I just hate ordering another LSP when I already have like 15.:cry:
 
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