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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
The local dealers near my home do not have the truck that I would want in stock. They have stated that they will order it, and it will take about 3-4mo and all I would need to do is put a deposit down.
But my question is this, I have never ordered a truck before. At what point do you bargin/haggle/hassle over the sale price of the truck? If you put a deposit down, when the truck comes in and you don't like the price can you get the deposit back? Also what about trade in, when is the trade price given? I am nervous about the idea of placing a truck on order. I don't want to get screwed!

Oh and I want a Double cab, 4x4.,5.7, 6.5 bed (I guess?), TRD, and Naut Blue color, SR5, cold weather package, and towing package. Ya know where I can one just like that, and how much should I pay?

Thanks,
Zack
 

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This is what I did, and it seemed to work pretty well. I say "seemed", because the truck is due in about a week or so, so I don't actually have it in my hands. Only then will I remove the disclaimer!

On my region's web site (SET), I am able to look at trucks in inventory (in various stages of delivery) throughout the region. I found a truck that was exactly (or close enough not to matter) to what I wanted. The trucks have an identifying number on the web site.

I then looked on the website for dealers reasonably close (as far as you are willing to go). Then go to each dealer website and submit a request through their "internet department" for a best price quote on the exact truck number you found in inventory.

You get decent prices without much hassle this way. They know they are competing with other dealers, and if they don't give you the best price up front, you'll take one of the others. In fact, if you really want to deal with your local dealer, bring the best internet price on the specific truck you found to them, and they'll probably beat it.

Now, you can take the truck you found, or use the price as a ballpark for a custom order. In my case, and this is probably typical, the specific truck I found wasn't available (it was probably custom ordered for somebody else with good taste :clown: ).

So, I just asked if it could be ordered for me (at the same price), swapped around a few minor options (mudflaps, floor mats, etc.) and I was all set.

I may not have gotten the absolutely best price in the world (who know, really), but it was quite a bit less than list, and that is what everybody was asking initially as a "walk on to the lot" customer, so I know I at least saved a lot of time and hassle trying to negotiate down to the price I got ("let me talk to my sales manager" :rolleyes: ).
 

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I have ordered a couple of Toyota's in the past. I always negotiated price of the vehicle and trade in value before the new vehicle was ordered. When we ordered our 2005 Sienna, I didn't even put down a deposit.
 

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I did my research on deals that other dealerships would offer me and made them come to me with their offers.
No dealer likes for another dealer to give a better price ;)

When I decided who was giving me the best deal. My trade was evaluated and all incentives/rebates/discounts were given to me in black in white BEFORE the order was submitted. I was given the Consumer sheet which lists EVERY SINGLE option that my truck is suppose to have. I also have the Deal Worksheet that breaks down the numbers and includes the bottom line price of my price out the door....to include tax title & tags. There is also a disclosure that if my vehicle does not have what I want to a T when it comes in; I am not obligated to purchase. I wanted that option, because I don't wanna be stuck with the wrong Rear DVD Entertainment System. That shouldn't be a problem because every option was listed on the sales order slip and signed by myself and the dealer.

Good luck!!!
 

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I was wondering the same thing. I have negotiated the price of my truck, and I have negotiated the price for my trade-in (they are letting me drive my trade-in as much as I want until my custom order comes in...very cool). I custom ordered it on 3/26 and the Tundy (see signature) will be in in 2 wks. The MSRP on the truck is a CH above 38,000, and I talked them down to 36,500 when I ordered it and laid down a deposit. I'm not happy with how little I talked them down, because the invoice is around 33,775. Since they pulled some underhanded crap with the pricing when I was negotiating...they added 700 to the MSRP and didn't tell me, and a couple other things that I caught. I ended up sitting in the internet salesman's chair, and he in the visitor's chair...grilling him. I'm going to use that to my advantage, and say that they were trying to bamboozle me from the get go.
They gave me more pricing paperwork than they should have, because it gave me information to use against them in negotiations. They gave me a price sheet that gave the price of the truck (the +700 price) a 'discount' that took off 2,300 (made the price 36,500 as negotiated) it also added in fees (TT&L, 'processing') and factored in my trade-in. I'm going to ask to see the build sheet/invoice whatever when I get there. I will use the invoice and REAL MSRP pricing, and do some quick calculations that I've already run through to give them a deal...I'm going to shoot for 1,000 over invoice. I think that's fair for both.
They never did show me the actual appraisal that toyota (an actual toyota appraiser) gave my trade-in truck, so I will get a look at that too and make any price adjustments there as well.
Also, I have been shopping other dealers via the internet, and have gotten some farkin' sweet prices on a similarly equipped truck, and I will use that in the negotiations.
I could have saved myself a lot of hassle by negotiating more up front when I placed the order...and I should have, but I thought I had ironed out all of their wrinkles...now I see more wiggle room. Hind-sight is 20/20...thankfully it's not too late.
Oh, and one last thing to make the negotiation easier...I'm going to tell them that I want to finance...they will be more willing to drop the price. Then, when I get to the Finance Mgr stage of the game, I will tell the guy that I changed my mind and I just want to pay for it outright. That is, if I sell my corvette before the new tundy comes. If I don't, I'll just finance, refuse all options, and pay off the loan when I sells the Vette.

That's my plan FWIW
 

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Sounds like you'll be able to rework your deal Woody!

It's really cool about them letting you keep and utilize your trade. Mine is doing the same, but it just sits in my garage anyway.
 

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Sounds like you'll be able to rework your deal Woody!

It's really cool about them letting you keep and utilize your trade. Mine is doing the same, but it just sits in my garage anyway.
Yeah, I'm hoping I can renegotiate it to my liking. The guy knows that I need my truck to do farm work. he said "You can take your truck, and drive it however you want, wherever you want. You can off road it and take it to the farm in GA. We don't care; don't worry about putting too many miles on it. Just, please don't wreck it or put 40k miles on it...then we might have to reappraise it!"
I LOLed and said "thanks!"

My Vette is the one that sits in the garage, I want to keep it clean and keep miles off of it since it's for sale.

:tu:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So the general feedback is that all the deals are made before the order is placed! I like that, I want to know in advance what I am getting!.


Zack
 

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So the general feedback is that all the deals are made before the order is placed! I like that, I want to know in advance what I am getting!.


Zack
zack,
where in nj are you? I can tell you what dealers were jerks, and which were good when I got my crewmax.
Of course, price before placing the order. WHy would you order something if you dont know if your paying the price you would like?
 

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This is what I did, and it seemed to work pretty well. I say "seemed", because the truck is due in about a week or so, so I don't actually have it in my hands. Only then will I remove the disclaimer!

On my region's web site (SET), I am able to look at trucks in inventory (in various stages of delivery) throughout the region. I found a truck that was exactly (or close enough not to matter) to what I wanted. The trucks have an identifying number on the web site.

I then looked on the website for dealers reasonably close (as far as you are willing to go). Then go to each dealer website and submit a request through their "internet department" for a best price quote on the exact truck number you found in inventory.

You get decent prices without much hassle this way. They know they are competing with other dealers, and if they don't give you the best price up front, you'll take one of the others. In fact, if you really want to deal with your local dealer, bring the best internet price on the specific truck you found to them, and they'll probably beat it.

Now, you can take the truck you found, or use the price as a ballpark for a custom order. In my case, and this is probably typical, the specific truck I found wasn't available (it was probably custom ordered for somebody else with good taste :clown: ).

So, I just asked if it could be ordered for me (at the same price), swapped around a few minor options (mudflaps, floor mats, etc.) and I was all set.

I may not have gotten the absolutely best price in the world (who know, really), but it was quite a bit less than list, and that is what everybody was asking initially as a "walk on to the lot" customer, so I know I at least saved a lot of time and hassle trying to negotiate down to the price I got ("let me talk to my sales manager" :rolleyes: ).
Where did you find your regions website. I've googled for a little bit and got nothing.
 

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Where did you find your regions website. I've googled for a little bit and got nothing.
Just go to the Toyota website, put in a zip code for the region you want (or your correct zip code if you want "your" region), and build your Tundra. You will be sent to that region's website.

In the case of SE Toyota region, you get sent to an inventory site first, and get shown all the "available" trucks. You can then go to a link called "still not finding what you want" and then you can "custom build" a truck.

But the first data you get is the trucks in inventory for a certain truck/color/option combination (you can get as detailed on the criteria as you want).

Each regions is somewhat different. I know California has a cool 3d build program that I was using to get a visual idea on interior/exterior color combinations. I'm not sure if they all show an available inventory search though...
 

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At what point do you bargin/haggle/hassle over the sale price of the truck?

Before you give them a deposit have all the negotiating done. The way i do it it is ask them what trucks are coming in in the next month or so. They can tell you if they are honest. Then if there's one you want in the colour you want you can settle on a price. This way no one else drives it either.

If there are other dealers within driving difference call and ask them what they have coming in. Ask to speak to the sales manger. They love to sell a vehicle from an outside area as it's a sale they would not normally get.

I don't know why there is such a problem to get certain models in the US. here in canada it's not hard to find the one you want.
 

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yeah you most definitely talk numbers before you leave a deposit or sign ANYTHING. Although i dont know the laws in your state but here in the sooner state,OK, if you dont know, there is always a way to get out of the deal anytime before you take DELIVERY of the vehicle. I sold toyotas for a while and i know the deal isn't a deal until they drive off the premises. Also whats the best deal anyone has heard so far regarding the new 07? I know i got a ridiculous deal on my reg cab reg bed 5.7. I got it at invoice minus holdback.
 

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Got my '07 DC SR5 4x4 Long Bed for $20 under invoice ($30800). Was simple really, found the truck I wanted, then went dealer to dealer telling each one that the dealer I had just visited would do the deal for $500 less than they actually had :devil:. Finally a dealer said uncle and told me to buy it from the other guy so we went up from there. This worked for me due to three main things:

1. I live in SF bay and there are literally a half dozen toyota dealers within 30 min. drive.
2. I had no trade in since I prefer to handle that myself to maximize return.
3. I had a pre approved financing check from my credit union in hand so all we had to talk about was out the door pricing, period. The dealer knew all I had to do was pick the shop that was going to take my money.
 

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Got my '07 DC SR5 4x4 Long Bed for $20 under invoice ($30800). Was simple really, found the truck I wanted, then went dealer to dealer telling each one that the dealer I had just visited would do the deal for $500 less than they actually had :devil:. Finally a dealer said uncle and told me to buy it from the other guy so we went up from there. This worked for me due to three main things:

1. I live in SF bay and there are literally a half dozen toyota dealers within 30 min. drive.
2. I had no trade in since I prefer to handle that myself to maximize return.
3. I had a pre approved financing check from my credit union in hand so all we had to talk about was out the door pricing, period. The dealer knew all I had to do was pick the shop that was going to take my money.
Agree that there are a ton of dealers all in our area. But interesting to hear how easy you find it to lie to someone, or anyone. Everyone claims they want the truth but dont seem to be willing to tell it themselves. A shame really. The industry isnt going to get any better until both sides start acting right.
 

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Yeah maybe it was a little rude, but I didn't want to get taken for a ride. I wouldn't need to do this if dealers would show me the factory invoice and truthfully tell me what the "hold back" amount is. In fact the design of the "hold back" itself is set up to mislead buyers. In the end I don't feel bad at all, the dealer still made money and I got my truck.

Just my .02

Tom
 

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Yeah maybe it was a little rude, but I didn't want to get taken for a ride. I wouldn't need to do this if dealers would show me the factory invoice and truthfully tell me what the "hold back" amount is. In fact the design of the "hold back" itself is set up to mislead buyers. In the end I don't feel bad at all, the dealer still made money and I got my truck.

Just my .02

Tom
So it is ok to lie to save money but not lie to make money, I got it. I wouldnt like to do either but I guess that is why they call you terrible tom, lol
 

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So it is ok to lie to save money but not lie to make money, I got it. I wouldnt like to do either but I guess that is why they call you terrible tom, lol

You're right, I lied and it was by all definitions wrong. For what it's worth I try to be a good person and what I did I would call a "white lie".

Dealer hold backs (read:kick backs) are thinly disguised lies. If I went into the dealer and knew nothing about them would he tell me? Heeeelllll no! If I went to the dealer and asked them what the hold back for my particular truck is would he tell me, probably not. When you shop for cars, the dealer hold the cards in that only they know what their kick back is from the factory. Without them telling you their hold back, you basically don't know what you're paying for the truck and what you're paying the dealer for their "services" (as the truck costs what it costs and the dealer profit is what they get paid for their serivces). What I did was try to level the playing field. I found out what other dealers were willing to take for their services then went to the next dealer and gave a lower number to see if they'd take that. It was the fastest way to get to the minimum possible cost for the dealer services part of the deal.

What would be easier?
I know what I'm willing to pay for the services the dealer offer by brokering the car deal for me. "Umm dude, will you take $200 for brokering this car deal for me yes or no?" Call another dealer, rinse, repeat. However this is impossible if they won't tell you the hold back. They will tell you sure, I'll take $200 over invoice but they could be making 1200 or 2200, way more than I'm will to pay for pushing through some paper work and washing my new truck. I'm sure I could have worked my deal in a more ethical manner but I would put a great big bet on the odds that the dealer (even yours) bends people over daily and hold way less remorse than I do.

Thank you for pointing out my misgivings, I will trthully take your comments to heart. But I don't really feel bad about what I did, I simply respect the principal.

Nice Busa, I ride an '05 ZX12r. Fits my 6' 2" 195lb frame a bit better but I wish I got your mileage rather than my crappy 32mpg.
 

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Just go to the Toyota website, put in a zip code for the region you want (or your correct zip code if you want "your" region), and build your Tundra. You will be sent to that region's website.

In the case of SE Toyota region, you get sent to an inventory site first, and get shown all the "available" trucks. You can then go to a link called "still not finding what you want" and then you can "custom build" a truck.

But the first data you get is the trucks in inventory for a certain truck/color/option combination (you can get as detailed on the criteria as you want).

Each regions is somewhat different. I know California has a cool 3d build program that I was using to get a visual idea on interior/exterior color combinations. I'm not sure if they all show an available inventory search though...
FYI most of us will not find a complete inventory listing for our are. SET is different becuase it is on owner of the whole region. So that owner post the inventory. My dealer claims they won't trade with SET do to a higher cost.
 
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