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Thanks, I had thought of that and also read that some people are finding their rear ride height is higher after the TSB. I will for sure try to get that done before i mess with it. I also have a 3" lift kit with rear add-a-leaf waiting to be installed, that's why I haven't really bothered to play with it yet. Fingers crossed, with the TSB, add-a-leaf and maybe a driveline centre support bearing drop shim, things will be better or fixed.
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Not only a little higher in back, but a little firmer which should help with the
diff nose pointing up & down upon acceleration/deceleration due to the long, relatively soft leafs flexing/winding up. Might also help a little with the "just got bumped in the rear" syndrome that some notice.
 

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Not only a little higher in back, but a little firmer which should help with the
diff nose pointing up & down upon acceleration/deceleration due to the long, relatively soft leafs flexing/winding up. Might also help a little with the "just got bumped in the rear" syndrome that some notice.
I had the leaf srping TSB done and it didnt really help the shuddering, you can rock the truck back in forth in park and see how much the axle wraps. The leaf spring / traction mod did way more to get rid of the issue.
 

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See if it does it in 4wd, I bet it doesnt, I have the same issue, its axle wrap. I actually mounted a video cam under the truck one day to video what was going on and only in 2wd does the axle wrap, release, wrap release, Im eventually going to try out a budbuilt traction bar and see if that fixes it.
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My RCLB V6 2002 Tundra would wind up and release at times, and sometimes I would just make it wind up to show friends and have them take some photos. I would do a mild powerbrake; holding brake just short of letting a rear tire spin, then before releasing accelerator hold brake tight, let off gas and put truck in neutral while holding brake tightly. It was amazing to see how the springs were flexed totally different from one side to the other, and the rear was ~2" higher than level on one side and ~4" on the other. While everyone was looking I would release the brakes and the pinion angle would return to normal and the truck would return back to normal ride height; looking almost like it was a bagged lowrider. All due to the long, soft leafs serving as the springs and the torque medium. Some bars or even horizontal 50/50 shocks would be beneficial to keeping the rear axle located properly.
 

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Can someone explain the concept of "axle wrap" please? Thanks.
 

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I had the leaf srping TSB done and it didnt really help the shuddering, you can rock the truck back in forth in park and see how much the axle wraps. The leaf spring / traction mod did way more to get rid of the issue.
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Well, I was guessing it might help, due to the slightly stiffer leafs, but they are still long leafs with a not too stiff rate. As for rocking; I have a flatbed cabover truck with driveshaft/tailshaft mounted parking brake, and on level ground I can pull brake lever up @ 1-2 MPH, get out and still have time to watch the pinion nose up and down for several cycles before stopping. I had been thinking about removing a few of the leaves out of the spring pack and adding Firestone of AirLift air bags, but unless I add some traction bars, the pinion angle will prob go out of range quite often during normal driving due to the engine torque and the fact it has an exhaust brake.
 

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Bill,

If you have a limited slip differential I would suggest changing out the lube and be sure to use the proper limited slip additive.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Bill,

If you have a limited slip differential I would suggest changing out the lube and be sure to use the proper limited slip additive.
Thanks Jiha. I called the previous owner's dealership who performed maintenence on the Tacoma, and they told me the all oils and lubes were changed out at 29,000 miles. I am not sure if they used friction modifier or not. I was set to take the truck into my local dealer on Friday, and as it goes, the shuddering disappeared, so I cancelled. Friday night the shuddering came back. I plan to stop by the dealership on Monday to have it checked out. It it really annoying though. I will keep this thread updated. Thanks for all the replies.
 

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Get a bottle of friction modifier and add about 2oz's. This will cheaply ID the diff if that is the culprit. Worst you could do is end up with too much modifier, which would cause the diff not to lock when needed. If it does fix the shudder, then go ahead and make plans for a fluid change anyway with your choice of fluid, and do it yourself. Get a GL5 rated fluid that has some modifier already, and some separate modifier, as no fluid can have the exact "right" amount due to differing friction plate types, as well as varying spring preload levels. Add fluid and 2-3oz of modifier, drive truck in circles or a figure 8 in a vacant lot to work fluid in. If no noise, then leave as is, but drive awhile and let FM work into plates, then test by placing 1 rear tire on soft surface, 1 on hard surface and test for engagement on both tires. A lot of shops just install GL5 lube and let it go at that, and in some cases it works fine, but not in all, and that is why you fine tune it if it chatters. For ~33 years I have used GM, Ford, Chrysler, and K&W FM, and all work fine. My BIL works for Mitsubishi, and when the Mitsu FM was on backorder a few years ago, the dealers were told to use either Ford, GM, or Chrysler, and to obtain from a local dealer, and that all would work fine regardless of color, smell, or minor viscosity differences. I have heard that Eaton is the major friction plate/friction material supplier for most all US built clutch limited slip diffs. Traction adding diffs (all types, not just clutch pack type) and fan clutches are about the two most difficult items to figure out if ,when & why they do or do not function correctly.
 

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My '05 4.0 automatic 4x4 (no rear locker) access cab with 27K miles has just started to do this in the last couple of months. It feels a little bit like the shudder you get if you try to turn tightly on a dry toad with 4WD engaged. It does it when I back out of my garage in the morning and turn slightly to the left. Since I make this same move every time I back out I know that it is something new, but I have absolutely no idea what is causing it. I almost never see it happen again during the day and it does not do it every morning, just from time to time. Since it did not do it when it was new I am wondering what has changed and if it will progress to some more serious problem. My dealer needs to be hit over the head with a very obvious issue to take any action, so I have not even tried on something this subtle and intermittent. I would definitely like to get this taken care of before my drive train warranty expires!
I have talked to Toyota on the phone...they have no idea what is causing the shudder...tried bsing me n I told them tell me what the problem is n I'll take it to a dealer n have it fixed..they have no idea..
 

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I have talked to Toyota on the phone...they have no idea what is causing the shudder...tried bsing me n I told them tell me what the problem is n I'll take it to a dealer n have it fixed..they have no idea..
Sometimes you have to take a closer look to see the problems. Good thing your dealer got it fixed.
 
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