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2002 Sequoia 212,000. No problems so far, (just regular maintenance) I will be replacing the timing belt for the first time. Not sure if it needs it, but here in the Arizona desert it might be a good idea to just do it.

Hope it can run for another 200,000 after replacing the timing belt.
Recommended timing belt interval is 80k or 100k from what i recall. 212k is really pushing it!
 

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We bought our 06 in Jan. 08 with 39K. It just rolled over 296K and runs like a top. Waiting for the frame+parts to come in for the frame replacement program. Stoked to hopefully see 400K on my baby.
 

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I bought a '06 Limited 4wd in August with 181,775 miles on it. Just about to roll over 185k miles. Dealer did timing belt, water pump, 90k service, brakes and new tires. I replaced the steering rack bushings shortly after buying it.
 

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Just picked up my '02 SR5 4x4 a month ago with 137,300 miles. I've put on 1300 miles since. It was a 1 owner, with good service history, although it did have a minor accident reported. Had it checked by a body shop and they said the repairs were done right. TB was done at 90K, brakes recent as well. I just put new tires on it. Passenger mirror not working, antenna not working. It does need new front cv axles (all 4 boots torn), just ordered them and hope to replace them in the next week or so. Thinking of going with Mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic on oil change.
 

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I bought an 03 SR5 with 147, 000miles, which now has 176, 000 miles on it. Although the previous owner said he had the water pump done, this proved to be a lie as it started leaking around 160k. This cost me $1500 for the pump and belts etc.

I have done:
1 x new front bakes and rotors
Both upstream heated oxygen sensors
2 Coils
1 spark plug
1 rear latch
Rear window fixed
I replaced the halogen headlamps with LED's
I replaced the head unit with a modern unit
Interior lighting changed to LED

It currently has problems with:
Drive bulb is blown
Torn right hand Steering rack boot
The A/C seems very poor. I have checked pressures which seem good, and the front and rear temp adjusts, its just the output isnt very cool so I am thinking a condenser change before next summer. (Garage said the whole system needs replacing - pipewrok and all. I dont trust their diagnosis at all)
I may change the instrument backlighting to LED when I fix the drive bulb as it doesn't seem very bright
I am changing all plugs and coils in the next week as these seem to be a problem.
 

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I bought an 03 SR5 with 147, 000miles, which now has 176, 000 miles on it. Although the previous owner said he had the water pump done, this proved to be a lie as it started leaking around 160k. This cost me $1500 for the pump and belts etc.


The A/C seems very poor. I have checked pressures which seem good, and the front and rear temp adjusts, its just the output isnt very cool so I am thinking a condenser change before next summer. (Garage said the whole system needs replacing - pipewrok and all. I dont trust their diagnosis at all)
From experience, I've changed the electric fan a couple of times, and the second time around I also hit the system with some extra freon. I've found that if you fill it to the recommended pressure, it's just not enough. Give it quite a bit more than recommended and you'll find the AC WILL cool better.

BTW... 329,958 miles on my 2002 SR5 from new. I've been away from Tundrasolutions for a while now but found that the old Toyota needs a little TLC, so I'm posting a new thread with a question...
 

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337,000 on 2004 sequoia sr5. rear tailgate latch repair, was pretty much clean except for rust around rear door/ wheel wells until this winter. Knocked something off a cabinet in garage and dented the hood. Backed into a parking post covered in snow and put a dent in tailgate. Check engine light just came on and I need to replace CAT converter once it warms up. Wife wants a new car :), trying to decide what to do with it.
 

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Yes, you should do lower ball joints, they are inexpensive. They are known wear parts and if they fail, it is catastrophic and you could get hurt, not to mention the damage it does. A quick web search show the pictures.
 

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Bought our 06 Sequoia limited brand new for $46K and its been an awesome vehicle, its got 160K but now its the spare vehicle so we don't put a lot of miles on her. Recently changed out the front shocks, new plugs and wiring.
The Dealer also did the under carriage rust spray as well. When I bought it I did the rust proofing
didn't do much as we still got some under carriage rust. No plans on getting rid of her anytime soon.
 

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2006 4x4 limited here. I've got 133k on her. Has anyone with the high mileage in the 300k + range been using their Sequoia to tow a heavy travel trailer on a regular basis? Not like every day, but probably 10%-30% of total mileage.

By heavy I mean pulling a 4500 to 5000 dry weight travel trailer.
 

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I have two trees: a 2002 4x2 SR5 with 251,000 miles on it that I'm currently working on for either a blown head gasket or cracked head. New timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, gaskets, radiator, and Bosal catalytic converters. Cats and starters start to go out around 250k I've been told. I had been getting a P0420 CEL code on so time to replace the cats I suppose.

I also have a 2003 4x4 Unlimited with a Skyjacker lift and around 255,000 miles. I learned the hard way that the cats tend to go out around 250k miles. They will self destruct internally and clog themselves up to the point that the engine can't run because of the back pressure from the clogged up cat.
Other than this recent issue this one runs strong.

The 2002 4x2 is smoother to drive overall but I love the height of the 2003 4x4 and the roar of my Nittos.
 

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Gonna revive this thread with a question.
I've got an opportunity to buy an early Sequoia with 530k on it for super cheap. Owner drove long distances every day for 16 years and took very, very good care of it (allegedly). Says its solid and doesn't leak a drop of anything. Original engine and trans.

Alternatively, I can pick up a similar aged and spec'd one with 280k on it for a few hundred dollars more.

So here's the question...am I crazy to want to buy the 500k one just to see how much longer it will go? Logic tells me the 280k is safer bet, but where's the fun in that?

Thoughts?
 

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they gotta be so cheap you should just buy both. if one is down for some big maintenance you have a backup (this is how i justify keeping two fifteen year old vehicles). or you have a whole spare parts vehicle. and yes it's crazy to buy a vehicle with 500k on it.
 

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they gotta be so cheap you should just buy both. if one is down for some big maintenance you have a backup (this is how i justify keeping two fifteen year old vehicles). or you have a whole spare parts vehicle. and yes it's crazy to buy a vehicle with 500k on it.
The "medium density" housing development I'm in is already going to make it tricky to park ONE Sequoia. Narrow roads and tiny garages do not a happy man make.
 

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These are certainly high mileage vehicles but you're getting into unknown territory above 500k miles. There are a couple of examples of these drive trains making that kind of mileage, or higher but they are few and far between. If the 280k is in good condition than that leaves a lot of meat on the bone. That being said, how many miles are you driving a year? I bet that 530k truck will reliably start and run for quite awhile.

In the end, it really comes down to the condition of the trucks. It is proven that Toyota made a quality vehicle. At either of these mileages, the care taken of the vehicle is the main concern. I know of a 475k truck that gets daily driven 100 miles per day and it runs great. It also gets maintained meticulously.
 
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