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I would call a Toyota dealership's parts department and ask them to look up identical year model sequoia and tundra. See if the steering wheels part numbers match..

Or, just try it out :D
 

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Mark it eight, Dude...
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks maylon . from what i've read it will fit. it just doesn't really state wether or not the controls will work. i would love to see a diy with pics. maybe i'll try to do my own since i just purchased one on ebay cheap. if anyone else wants one check out lkq on ebay
08 09 10 Toyota Sequoia Black Leather Steering Wheel around $150-200
 

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the radio wheel controls will work on a sr5.you will need to add 3 wires to the back of radio which go to a connector above the glove box.do a search ,there's a complete thread on this already.
 

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thanks maylon . from what i've read it will fit. it just doesn't really state wether or not the controls will work. i would love to see a diy with pics. maybe i'll try to do my own since i just purchased one on ebay cheap. if anyone else wants one check out lkq on ebay
08 09 10 Toyota Sequoia Black Leather Steering Wheel around $150-200
AHH!! so it was you that beat me:angrywife:

lol oh well next time:sad3d:
 

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I have a Sequoia steering wheel in mine with radio and climate controls and it works just fine :becky:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i saw the thread with the three wires, it's like rocket science, i guess i need visual aids and step by step instructions. yeah yeah i know it has like 2 pics, i need a colorful instruction manual with detailed pics
 

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the radio wheel controls will work on a sr5.you will need to add 3 wires to the back of radio which go to a connector above the glove box.do a search ,there's a complete thread on this already.

This is not a "gimme" on the 3 wires from JK1, connector behind the upper glove box. If you don't have wires at pins 4,5,6 colored gray, green and sky blue you'll have to make your own wiring harness, like I did, and run the connections from the steering wheel connector directly to the K3 connector on the back of the head unit. I know a number of other SR5 owners who have had to do the same, so check first!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK i'm going out now to look at the upper glove box. In case i cant get behind it how do you get behind it. Next if i do have those three wires then what? if i don't have the 3 wires then i have to make my own harness? how? Then i connect the steering wheel connecter to the back of the head unit? So i'm assuming that theres another line from the back of the head unit to the glove box? do i have all this right? You can see why i'm so confused. I thought the tundras came pre wired for all this stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
not as easy as i thought it would be. i removed 6 screws from the upper and lower glove box but it doesn't come out. i wiggled and pulled on it but i don't wanna break it. what else am i missing
 

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not as easy as i thought it would be. i removed 6 screws from the upper and lower glove box but it doesn't come out. i wiggled and pulled on it but i don't wanna break it. what else am i missing

It's more involved, but easy to do. Remove the plastic sill trim piece, this is the long black strip along the bottom, gently pry up on it, there are plastic retainers (yellow I think) that hold it in place.

Remove the kick panel, this is the trim piece by the passengers right foot, there is one screw nut you remove then snap the panel out .

Remove the side dash panel trim piece. This is a fairly flat piece that is on the side, you can see it when the passenger door is open. Gently pry this piece off.

Now you can remove the lower glove box, I can't remember the number of screws but there are a few of them.

Remove the upper glove compartment box. Once again there are a number of screws and I think two nuts that secure right into the back of the box. You should NOT have to use excess force to remove these pieces, if you do, you missed a screw somewhere.

Once everything is out, the JK1 connector is located on the far upper right, it's the bottom one (2) total. You can't miss them, there the only plugs in that location. I found it easier to detach JK1 from JK2, there is a strip of gray foam that holds the two together and a plastic retainer that holds both of them to the dash.

There is a wiring diagram in the thread "add steering wheel audio controls".
If you have the wires at JK1 then run them to the head unit. Removing the radio is really easy.

See what you have and we'll take it from there. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks a million mistermouser. i will try at it again tomorrow. and will let you know what i'm working with
 

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It's more involved, but easy to do. Remove the plastic sill trim piece, this is the long black strip along the bottom, gently pry up on it, there are plastic retainers (yellow I think) that hold it in place.

Remove the kick panel, this is the trim piece by the passengers right foot, there is one screw nut you remove then snap the panel out .

Remove the side dash panel trim piece. This is a fairly flat piece that is on the side, you can see it when the passenger door is open. Gently pry this piece off.

Now you can remove the lower glove box, I can't remember the number of screws but there are a few of them.

Remove the upper glove compartment box. Once again there are a number of screws and I think two nuts that secure right into the back of the box. You should NOT have to use excess force to remove these pieces, if you do, you missed a screw somewhere.

Once everything is out, the JK1 connector is located on the far upper right, it's the bottom one (2) total. You can't miss them, there the only plugs in that location. I found it easier to detach JK1 from JK2, there is a strip of gray foam that holds the two together and a plastic retainer that holds both of them to the dash.

There is a wiring diagram in the thread "add steering wheel audio controls".
If you have the wires at JK1 then run them to the head unit. Removing the radio is really easy.

See what you have and we'll take it from there. :)
Very helpful, points sent
 

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thanks a million mistermouser. i will try at it again tomorrow. and will let you know what i'm working with

I thought of one other thing, in the back of the upper glove box the screws/nuts have plastic tabs over them that have to be pryed off, if I remember correctly, these took a little extra effort to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those actually weren't that hard, i had already got to them. But thanks again for all your help. Maybe a stupid question but how do you send points?
 

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I saw you had this posted in the tech area under audio, not sure if you saw it so I'll post it here as well. :)
Originally Posted by mic_1011
please can someone clarify step by step like i'm a 2 year old what exactly i need to do to do this mod. i just purchased a sequoia s/w and plan on cutting my stock cover/air bag. i have a sr5 non jbl without blutooth, should i upgrade to a blutooth radio? hold my hand and guide me through this, do i need to buy wires/harness? please help me like i'm some idiot!

I recently "upgraded" my stock head unit to a JBL Navigation unit. If you plan on using a Toyota JBL head unit, the number of parts you need will vary. If you go with the JBL 6-disc unit, you will need a Toyota JBL amp, audio upgrade wiring harness, AUX/Steering wheel harness, a microphone/amp & wiring cable for the bluetooth. The microphone/amp connects in the overhead console, look for a small square with 2-3 horizontal slats, the mic. sits behind this piece. The wiring harness runs along the headliner, down the A pillar, behind the side dash cover and then snake it over to the head unit. The other wiring allows you to connect your non-JBL wiring connections to the JBL head unit. One note, some of these parts are ONLY available through Canadian dealers and they have been discontinued, so you may have to contact a few dealerships to find the parts, otherwise, I know someone from Ebay who could probably get the parts for you.

I would not recommend putting in the Toyota JBL navigation system. I personally think the navigation aspect "SUCKS!!". If you want to go this route, you will need even more parts and have to splice into several wires to make everything work.

When I put my steering wheel with controls on, I went with a new airbag/cover. I actually came out a little ahead on the deal, selling my old airbag/cover on Ebay I covered the cost of the new airbag/cover with the proper cutouts and it helped pay for the leather wrapped steering wheel.

Changing the wheel is really easy. Disconnet the negative battery terminal, you will have to remove the connectors to the airbag and you don't want that thing going off in your face! Once that's done, pop off the trim cover behind the cruise control switch and a similiar one on the left side of the steering column. You will see two torx screws, #30 I think, use this bit to remove the screws, they have loc-tite on the threads so you might need a little extra force, don't worry about losing the screws, there built into a plastic retainer so you can't loose them. Now pry off the airbag/cover with your finger tips. You will see the wires going to the airbag, I think I used a small tipped screw driver to remove the leads, don't worry about labeling them, they can only fit one way into each socket. To remove the seering wheel use a 10mm deep well socket, it takes a little effort to remove....NOTE: make sure you note the position of the steering wheel to the column, if you don't, when you install the new one it will be off center and you'll have to repeat the above steps to get it aligned properly.
In the steering column you'll see a white connector, this will plug into the connector on your new steering wheel, there might be an extra black wire, tuck this out of the way but make sure it doesn't ground or your horn will go off. Re-assemble in the reverse order.

If you don't have the wires at JK1 (from the other thread I posted on), I would run the 3 wires from the steering column connector directly to the K3 connector on the head unit. Cut the wires to length; I used 20 gauge wire. Using electrical tape, wrap the wires together and snake it down the steering column, there is a large wiring bundle that I ran it along, then snake it over to the head unit.

There are a couple of methods for connecting the new wires into the plugs. You can get the the actual female pins from Tyco electronics, crimp them on the wires and insert into the plug, there is a secondary lock on these wire connectors, look on the sides and you'll see a couple of groves, gently pry these up, they don't come out all the way, but this will allow you to insert the pin. Use a needle nose pliers to push them into the plug. Look on the connection side, you should see the pin (look at some of the factory ones and you'll know what I mean) if you see it, reconnet the secondary lock, if you don't you need to push the pin in farther otherwise you won't have a connection.

The second method is to strip approx. 2" of insulation off the wire, fold the wire back on itself and then insert into the plug. On some of my connections the wire made it through without removing the secondary lock, on others I had to loosen it. Once connected, I wrapped electrical tape around the connection and wires to hold the new wire in place.

Good Luck!! :)
 

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