[Ripper]

The 24, 27 is the physical size of the battery. When you buy a battery you should always look at CCA (Cold Cranking Amps), CA (Cranking Amps) and reserve capacity. In general your engine will require a specific number of amps to turn it over. Make sure the rating on the battery will handle the job. For reserve capacity (how long can you crank the motor) I like to get the highest value possible. It is possible to buy a smaller physical battery that has specs as good or better than a larger physical size battery.

I like the Duralast batteries from AutoZone. They are good batteries (made by Johnson Controls). They have direct replacement, no pro rate, for the first couple of years. There are AutoZones everywhere should you need to replace them and you are in the computer so you don't need a slip. I had a Duralast in my old 2003 Tundra and it was a good battery. I also have one the Duralast AGM batteries in my wife's 2009 Chrysler. I never had any problems either and the price is hard to beat.

 

[Jonesy]

it's a 2010.

and BTW Jonesy, your penchant for using extra large text and colors is a bit on the obnoxious side of things.

There ~ Fixed it for ya . . .

 

[smack]

There ~ Fixed it for ya . . .

Thanks!

 

[smack]

I just went and checked my Tundra, I have a 27R as well But I will buy a 27F anyhow. Notice the 27F lettering on the top right. My positive post is on the left side.

Here is the exact same battery. Sticker says 27R. Part number 28800-0f010

View attachment 64455

That's interesting. It will be interesting to see what Toyota replaces it with.

 

[redwood]

That's interesting. It will be interesting to see what Toyota replaces it with.

That Toyota battery sticker says its manufactured by Exide Technologies.
Exide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Ripper]

My 2014 battery was manufactured by Johnson Controls. I figure Toyota goes where ever they get the best deal. Kind of like, here are the specifications for all the batteries I need, I need X units of specification 1, Y of specification 2 ..., what is the best price you can give me.

 

[INDYMAC]

My Toyota OEM battery says 27R in one place and 27F in another. With the battery in place, + is on left and - is on right. I just cleaned the terminals. That's how I know.

 

[Tundradrenalin]

Most of these batteries come from the same source ~ Johnson Controls ~ the same maker as the Toyota OEM units.


Coming from the same source does not equate to being the same battery. Johnson Controls could make several 27F batteries for different customers [Toyota, Costco, BJ's, etc] all to different specifications. It largely depends on the cost point dictated by their customer. So a Toyota 27F could be perform much different [better or worse] then a Costco 27F from the same factory.

JC owns Optima Batteries.

 

[Fordless]

Parts Guy at the dealer told me a while back that the older Tundras had OEM batteries that were manufactured by Panasonic. He said that they could order one of the OEM Batteries but they cost something like $800. The replacement batteries that they sold over the counter were re-stickered Interstates. I ended up going with one of the restickered Interstates because $92 OTD.

 

[SuckersWalk]

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/204042-went-shopping-27f-battery-today-results/

 

[smack]

So I bought the Toyota battery. Their book didn't even list a 27R and the parts guy had never heard of it. He brought me out a 27F and the posts are correct. $119 but I had a coupon that got me $15 off. They wanted $60 to install it even though the truck was also in the shop for warranty work (I have a platinum warranty). So I'm going to put in myself when I get the truck back. Now another rub, the terminals are pretty bad, and I find out you can just replace the terminals without replacing the whole cable (that's new in the past couple decades). So Mr. Parts Dept dude, how much are the terminals? "I can let them go for $28" For both? (chuckles) "Each" WTF?

So, anyone find more reasonable aftermarket terminals?

 

[SuckersWalk]

If the terminals are in bad shape, could it be the cable inside the vinyl sheathing is corroded? I'd replace them if that's the case.

You can get terminals at any autoparts store and walmart.

 

[smack]

1) Never shop at Walmart.

2) don't the cables terminate with a bolt that has to be screwed into the terminal? So not exactly generic ones right?

 

[SuckersWalk]

you can replace just the terminals on the cables you have, OR if you have corrosion in the cables (can't usually be seen unless the sheathing is sliced open) you can buy entirely new cables with the terminals already installed on them. you'll figure it out.

 

[smack]

HELLO People! I said 27R The R is for reversed pole positions. Do I have to post a picture of it to prove it? My Costco is selling Interstate batteries these days and they don't carry a 27R (or F for that matter). They use to sell Optimas but stopped.

As for going with Toyota, I'd prefer not too because mines a 2010 with only 40K miles on it and fives minutes of the radio with the engine off leaves me stranded. However, since I'm still within the 84 months on the warranty I should get some discount so I'm going over to Toyota for a new one.

So here's a nice twist. The OEM battery is only warrantied for 36 months. When you buy a Toyota replacement battery it is warranted for 84 months. It was $119 but I had a coupon for $15 off.

 

[SuckersWalk]

S'not any big deal. That TrueStart "replacement" battery is 24 months free replacement and prorated for the remainder. Your coupon brought you down to the same price as the EverStart (by Johnson Controls) batteries that Walmart sells and has a 36 month free replacement. Keep on truckin'.

 

[smack]

The chance of the battery failing in 2-3 years is low, so that extra year doesn't concern me. My point was that it is really crappy that the OEM battery is only warranted for 3 years with no proration beyond that.

 

[redwood]

Now another rub, the terminals are pretty bad, and I find out you can just replace the terminals without replacing the whole cable (that's new in the past couple decades). So Mr. Parts Dept dude, how much are the terminals? "I can let them go for $28" For both? (chuckles) "Each" WTF?

So, anyone find more reasonable aftermarket terminals?

I bought the OEM terminals myself. They were $20 & $23. My whole setup is corroded. I bought everything in yellow, ended up costing around $60.

9098206059 - Negative term
9098205061 - Positive term

 

[Joe T]

I snagged a smaller redtop optima out of my hotrod that is sitting up. The truck needed some terminals and got some boat terminals from Oreilys $5 or something. Also needed shorter mounting screws (#6 and #7 above) for the hold down. Got a kit for like $8 and reused the factory top part (#5 above) because it was nicer. Tossed the insulation and battery tray, they are too big.

Works just great.

If anyone wants to know I will reference the exact size and take pics.