2002 Tundra. I'm the only owner, and its not been abused off road. I was thinking I may need new U-Joints since its at 170k miles. The dealer said that I needed a whole new drive shaft, and wanted 1700 bucks for it. I know this cant be the case. Surely the U-Joints and the Center Bearing are serviceable and able to be replaced???? Any Info on this is greatly appreciated.
ecarl4100
Dealer says I Need a New Driveshaft
Re: Dealer says I Need a New Axle
What's going on with the truck to warrant a new drive shaft?
What's going on with the truck to warrant a new drive shaft?
Re: Dealer says I Need a New Axle
Same question as the previous member....
Side note on u joint replacement for the drive shaft. It's a pain n the @$$ to do. Most dealers will suggest to replace it. Rather than service it. Reason being, when pressing the joint out, modt of the time, the joint ears get damaged or bent.
Rather than pay $1700, you can get one by Dorman for around $600-$700 on Amazon.com.
Same question as the previous member....
Side note on u joint replacement for the drive shaft. It's a pain n the @$$ to do. Most dealers will suggest to replace it. Rather than service it. Reason being, when pressing the joint out, modt of the time, the joint ears get damaged or bent.
Rather than pay $1700, you can get one by Dorman for around $600-$700 on Amazon.com.
It kinda feels like there's been a little bit of slop in the drivetrain. I'm thinking they just don't want to mess with changing the center support bearing, or maybe that's not an overly serviceable part. My gut tells me they didn't want to mess with it, and we're trying to upsell me.
Re: Dealer says I Need a New Axle
When the carrier bearing on my 01' SR5 went bad I opted to go with a "guaranteed quality" used drive shaft from a local scrap yard. It maybe had 100,000 on it.. & the carrier bearing was still in great shape. That's what seemed to be causing the noise issues w/ my truck anyhow. I think I paid around $300 for it. Solved my problem.
When the carrier bearing on my 01' SR5 went bad I opted to go with a "guaranteed quality" used drive shaft from a local scrap yard. It maybe had 100,000 on it.. & the carrier bearing was still in great shape. That's what seemed to be causing the noise issues w/ my truck anyhow. I think I paid around $300 for it. Solved my problem.
Re: Dealer says I Need a New Axle
I just went through a similar thing with my truck at 89k miles. It developed a high frequency vibration starting at 45 mph felt in the seat, steering wheel, floor, and it was audible also. Checked the drive shaft for slop at the u-joints they were tight but the center carrier bearing seemed like a lot of radial play to me, and the bearing was hanging low in the rubber. Made match marks on all the parts, took the drive shaft out, u-joints not stiff, was able to press out the yoke joint just ahead of the center bearing using a c-clamp and spacers (youtube). Removed the staked yoke nut, pulled the yoke and bearing off. The bearing itself was fine and the rubber didn't seem that bad either, just sagged out. So I replaced the center bearing assembly, put never seize on the u-joint cups and pressed them back in with the c-clamp. The factory manual is real specific about centering the joint, using different thickness retaining clips to maintain 0.020" end play, I just got it in and pressed it back a smidge.
An issue I didn't find any previous posts for was that my cross-member for the auto transmission mount was cracked around the four 8mm bolt holes, one crack was 1.5" long! Instead of waiting for & spending $326.00 on a new x-member my boss (who is a metal surgery specialist) cut out the top of the x-member box where the 4 holes are, made a piece of 1/4" thick plate with new holes, clamped it in proper alignment and mig welded it in, all in his garage. Some finish grinding and paint, it came out great and is much thicker than the thin original piece.
I assume the vibration which was only for about 200 miles caused the cracks? Chicken or egg?
Installed the drive shaft and now it's smooth as silk again. The new center bearing seems to flex just as much as the original but it's now centered in the housing. I'll be keeping on eye on the repaired x-member & driveline in the future.
And finally - the repair shop I use when there's something I can't do or figure out quoted me $1,400.00 after finding the cracked x-member to replace it and send out the drive shaft assembly for "overhaul".
I just went through a similar thing with my truck at 89k miles. It developed a high frequency vibration starting at 45 mph felt in the seat, steering wheel, floor, and it was audible also. Checked the drive shaft for slop at the u-joints they were tight but the center carrier bearing seemed like a lot of radial play to me, and the bearing was hanging low in the rubber. Made match marks on all the parts, took the drive shaft out, u-joints not stiff, was able to press out the yoke joint just ahead of the center bearing using a c-clamp and spacers (youtube). Removed the staked yoke nut, pulled the yoke and bearing off. The bearing itself was fine and the rubber didn't seem that bad either, just sagged out. So I replaced the center bearing assembly, put never seize on the u-joint cups and pressed them back in with the c-clamp. The factory manual is real specific about centering the joint, using different thickness retaining clips to maintain 0.020" end play, I just got it in and pressed it back a smidge.
An issue I didn't find any previous posts for was that my cross-member for the auto transmission mount was cracked around the four 8mm bolt holes, one crack was 1.5" long! Instead of waiting for & spending $326.00 on a new x-member my boss (who is a metal surgery specialist) cut out the top of the x-member box where the 4 holes are, made a piece of 1/4" thick plate with new holes, clamped it in proper alignment and mig welded it in, all in his garage. Some finish grinding and paint, it came out great and is much thicker than the thin original piece.
I assume the vibration which was only for about 200 miles caused the cracks? Chicken or egg?
Installed the drive shaft and now it's smooth as silk again. The new center bearing seems to flex just as much as the original but it's now centered in the housing. I'll be keeping on eye on the repaired x-member & driveline in the future.
And finally - the repair shop I use when there's something I can't do or figure out quoted me $1,400.00 after finding the cracked x-member to replace it and send out the drive shaft assembly for "overhaul".
Thanks for all the help folks. I was looking on Rockauto, and found a Dorman (#936717) driveshaft assembly. Anyone know if these are good to go? The price is $560 for an entire assembly. Facing a 1700 dollar hosing from the dealer, this looks like a good alternative. I've never heard of Dorman driveshafts though. I hope this is close to oem quality.
you don't even know for sure you need a new ds, but you're willing to drop that coin on one anyway? my gut says the dealer is selling you exactly what you asked for to fix the "little bit of slop in the drivetrain" and you are already ducking from the falling sky. i'm pretty damn sure a second or third opinion is a hell of a lot cheaper than that ds you found on rockauto. i could go into 20 questions with you on all the details you've left out, but i've got to go check my powerball tickets. good luck.
First. I'd Take the drive-shaft completely off and take it to a driveshaft shop. Asking what needs to be done. I had a shaking/vibrating steering wheel I was narrowing down fixes on. There is 4 bolts/nuts no each end. Not really that hard to do now is it ???
Any good driveshaft shop can service the U-Joints if they need it. And Properly grease them. And checking the balance of the driveline/driveshaft. Look over Yelp, Yellow pages, in your area. Probably all you need is to balance the driveshaft. That is all I needed.
I don't know about the double-cardon Joints though. I didn't need work on mine. I properly grease everything. Either way a driveshaft shop can determine what you need for a whole lot less.
I had my driveshaft balanced/properly timed on the splines as a shop screwed it up, and the Driveshaft re-painted for all for only $50.
You can get yours serviced and if they say its bad...then go to a junk-yard and get a non-broken driveshatt off a wrecked Tundra for a lot less than the local Toyota: Today's special on Raping Prices. If your current driveshaft cannot be serviced/repaired, get a good one from a junkyard for cheap, then having that one serviced.
Or the Dorman diveshaft too if you have the coin to spare is a Good option for 1/3rd the price of Toyota's raping.
Any good driveshaft shop can service the U-Joints if they need it. And Properly grease them. And checking the balance of the driveline/driveshaft. Look over Yelp, Yellow pages, in your area. Probably all you need is to balance the driveshaft. That is all I needed.
I don't know about the double-cardon Joints though. I didn't need work on mine. I properly grease everything. Either way a driveshaft shop can determine what you need for a whole lot less.
I had my driveshaft balanced/properly timed on the splines as a shop screwed it up, and the Driveshaft re-painted for all for only $50.
You can get yours serviced and if they say its bad...then go to a junk-yard and get a non-broken driveshatt off a wrecked Tundra for a lot less than the local Toyota: Today's special on Raping Prices. If your current driveshaft cannot be serviced/repaired, get a good one from a junkyard for cheap, then having that one serviced.
Or the Dorman diveshaft too if you have the coin to spare is a Good option for 1/3rd the price of Toyota's raping.
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