No sorry that won't work. No way around it it's a pressed in bearing.

 

You could always go ahead and pull the hubs, and take them and the bearings to a Toyota dealer, or find a local shop that can swap the bearings in and out for you....Any decent shop should only charge you at most, maybe 1/2hr labor.

 

Thank you. That's what I'll do then. Looks like a piece of cake once the bearings are swapped, yes?

 

Thank you. That's what I'll do then. Looks like a piece of cake once the bearings are swapped, yes?

I changed the front wheel bearing on my 04 highlander. It took me 45 minutes to remove the assy and cost me $25 per side for a local shop to press out the old bearing and install the new bearing. Money well spent in my opinion. I watched him do the first one and I couldn't have done it myself.

 

There is a hub assembly that can be used for the 4runner, but not the tundra. I have a picture of the 4runner hub assembly in my albums.

 

After reading up on this, and watching a video of a Tacoma wheel bearing being replaced, I've decided to just pull the hub myself (which looks tough enough), and then take it to a shop and have a mechanic press out the old bearing and press in the new one.

Has anyone taken the hub off? Does anyone have any tips on that? Any special tools needed?

 

Does anyone know if this axle pulley is necessary to remove the front hub?

 

Leave the hub in, it's pressed into the bearing, the shop will press it out. Just bring the whole spindle in, detach upper and lower ball joints, tie rod, brakes of course, and ABS sensor. I leave the sensor in the spindle and just unplug it, more risk of damaging it trying to pry it out of the spindle.

 

Leave the hub in, it's pressed into the bearing, the shop will press it out. Just bring the whole spindle in, detach upper and lower ball joints, tie rod, brakes of course, and ABS sensor. I leave the sensor in the spindle and just unplug it, more risk of damaging it trying to pry it out of the spindle.

Oooh, crap. You're kidding me. The entire spindle? Detaching the upper and lower ball joints and then the tie rods seem to be more of a pain than breaking the hub free.

And won't the shop mechanic have to remove the hub from the spindle anyways to replace the bearing and bearing seal?

What type of damage could this axle pulley do? (Now I have to weigh my options.)

:unsure3d:

 

Yes they have to remove the hub , but not from the spindle. The spindle is part of the hub, spindle goes into the bearing, bearing goes into the carrier, carrier goes onto the truck.

 

Why does the hub have to be removed?

Yes they have to remove the hub , but not from the spindle. The spindle is part of the hub, spindle goes into the bearing, bearing goes into the carrier, carrier goes onto the truck.

 

you will need a special tool like this :
OTC 7941 Hub Locknut Socket Wrench for Toyota : Amazon.com : Automotive

Its a bit involved to do at home.. trust me its not easy to get the proper torque on these lock nuts..
if you pop of the back dust shield you should see what i mean.

I'm not sure if your 2000 model has abs, but there is a tone ring in there if you do have ABS.

only after that lock nut is removed can you press out the hub.

NOTE do not try to hammer and chisel the nut off. you will destroy the nut..

 

I actually have an extra nut. (One for each side, actually.) Yes, I've seen the special nut remover. I'll need it to torque the new nut on (which I think should be at 203 ft.lbs.)

I'm going to take off the spindles on Thursday or Friday, and I've found a machine shop that should press out the bearings for about $40-50.

I have all of the parts, e.g., new rings, nuts, bearings, etc. I'm praying that it goes smoothly.

you will need a special tool like this :
OTC 7941 Hub Locknut Socket Wrench for Toyota : Amazon.com : Automotive

Its a bit involved to do at home.. trust me its not easy to get the proper torque on these lock nuts..
if you pop of the back dust shield you should see what i mean.

I'm not sure if your 2000 model has abs, but there is a tone ring in there if you do have ABS.

only after that lock nut is removed can you press out the hub.

NOTE do not try to hammer and chisel the nut off. you will destroy the nut..


View attachment 57067

 

Is there some special procedure for torquing the lock nut? For instance, does it get torqued to 203 ft lbs off the vehicle or on the vehicle under load? I'm getting a machine shop to press in new hubs and bearings tomorrow and need this info asap. I have a 2004 2WD Tundra. I read something online about setting the proper "end play". Does this apply to our Tundras? Thanks.

 

The bearing is pressed into the bottom of the spindle.

I didn't complete this process. After getting new tires and thus a re-balancing, the shimmy went away, and I doubt that I really need new bearings, though I do have about 340,000 miles on my truck.

I'll probably need to get the new bearings pressed in, but for now, the new bearings sit in my toolbox.

 

What was the outcome? And did toy really have to remove the entire spindle. I've never heard of that before. I thought you just removed the axle nut and four bolts holding the hub to the spindle.

The first gen Tundra does not have the four bolt hub you describe. The bearing is pressed into the spindle and the hub is pressed into the bearing. It's a PITA job and there's no way around it.

View attachment Sequoia Front Hub Assembly.pdf

 

So to reiterate, can the lock nut and hub be removed with the spindle on the truck? I DO NOT need to replace the bearings, just the hubs (they are warped).

 

I don't remember from when I did my manual hub conversion on my 4runner(same spindle assembly) but if you need hubs let me know. I still have 2 from my 4runner in the garage.

 

Are you sure they will fit a 2WD 2004 Tundra? So you don't remember if you had to remove the spindle and press the hub out? I'm hoping there is enough room to get the locknut loose and use a puller to pull the hub out. Again, I'm not replacing the bearings. They are fine.

 

Sorry. I am not sure on the 2wd. I didn't see that.

 

I suppose a puller wouldn't work because there is nothing to press against. Seems like a shop press is the only way. Guess I'll just get my rotors turned with an on-vehicle lathe from now on.

 

From the exploded view that milbro put up, it looks like the 2WD and 4WD share the same hub. Just different components inside the bearing assembly. Does the 2WD have a hole in the middle like it would accept a CV shaft. Not sure if it would really matter one way or the other except that you would probably build up crap inside it.

I was thinking about it and I know I pulled the whole spindle out. I took them in to my friends shop and paid them to press the old ones apart and assemble with the manual hub parts. You can press the whole thing apart, including bearings if you are careful and reuse it. I know the manual says you can't. We reused the bearings and seals at about 180k miles. The next owner replaced 1 side wheel bearing at about 250-260k miles.

 

I got my answer. Secure the hub in a vice with soft jaws (four lug nuts installed), torque the locknut using the SST to 203 ft lbs and stake the nut. That's it.