For V6 models, the owner's maintenance manual states the timing belt should be replaced at 90,000 miles. Toyota lists the part around $56 (aftermarket is probably $30-35), but you would need to get estimates for labor, etc.

The Check Engine Light (CEL or MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp) can illuminate for literally 100 different reasons - from failing to screw the gas cap on tightly, to total engine meltdown. To see what's being reported you'll need an OBDII code reader. Autozone will typically read the code(s) for you, or you can borrow one at no charge. The code(s) may or may not reflect the actual problem, but it is typically a good place to start the troubleshooting process.

BTW, the term 'VSC' can mean several different things in the automotive world. Be more specific and someone here can likely help.

Howard

 

Thank you for your valuable information.
VSC stands for Vehicle Stability Control.
I think I'll go ahead send my car into a local mechanical shop cause they are a bit more reasonable than the dealers and have them run a diagnostic on it and go from there. Hopefully nothing is serious.

Thanks

 

Hi I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander with 78k and recently i got a check engine light after i put some regular gas. Usually i fill my tank with premium but this time around i put about half a tank of regular gas. The very next day I got a check engine light. So i decided to take it to mechanic to have it checked out as i have already tried cleaning the MAF sensor and tightening the gas cap and resetted the ECU. My mechanic now tells me that i the diagnostic code is P1135 and that i need to buy 2 A/F Ratio Sensors. My question is, do they both fail when this code is present, do i need to buy them both? And can i use an A/F Sensor of a Lexus RX300 2002? (As they have similar engines)

Peligro34

 

A Toyota specific DTC of P1135 =A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
This is the specific location of the one sensor in question. Yes there are two banks on a v6 3.0 1mz-fe. Or any "V" configured engine for that matter. this code points to a specific bank(side) as well.

For Toyota A/F Ratio Sensor (OEM Part No.89467-...) :
"...Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between terminals +B and HT. Resistance: 0.8 - 1.4 ohms at 20°C (68°F). If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor..."

Don't recomend yu go aftermarket with this sensor. (i.e Bosch)


Verify that this heater circuit is good, then benchtest the A/F
sensor then replace if faulty.

Take a slow methodical approach.

 

Valuable informationLifeTech, thank you.

 

Wait... so your saying that it is possible that with this code which specifically points to a certain location, it is possible that i need to replace the front A/F sensor as well? Or will i be good just replacing the bank 1 sensor 1, Sensor? This sensors are expensive and i dont want to buy two of them if i dont need to.

 

the specific location as stated. one part as indicated by code....one side of the engine.

 

I sent my toyota to a local mechanic shop for a diagnostic and they told me that they found two codes and both related to some oil leaking problems. Somehow they could not found any leaks so they clear the code then tell me to come back if the light come out again. In just less than a week the CEL come out again and I start to question the mechanic's ability to fix the issue. I'm very frustrated right now. I just wonder if this is a common issue among all Highlander owners or it's just my bad lucky. I went for this toyota because of this brandname's reputation for soild quality but now I really have to re-evaluate that.

 

I have the same P1135 code and want to replace my A/F Sensor. Question is, where is Bank 1, Sensor 1?

I once found an attachment (TSB with illustration of location) someone posted showing the location but I can't find it anymore.

 

I think this is what yu were referring to?

LT:happy:

 

From recent experience!! B1/S1 is on the firewall side. the connection can easily be seen directly under the intake manifold. Hard to get to if you have big hands. The sensor itself is much easier to get to. Get under ur HL and look where the exhaust 'Y' pipe is. You will see it there and the wire connection directly above it. It is the one before the cat. not after. Auto Zone will run the scan for free, then you can buy/borrow the tool to replace it. Important: Don't go by their printout showing where the sensor is, it is wrong.