I should have the fix ready by tomorrow. Just need to install the rivets for the clips. I will be looking for a couple of testers in California because that's where the problem seems to be the worst. Basically it's a 3 leaf replacement for the overload to allow the springs to flex more instead of being stopped. The payload will decrease a few hundred pounds but the ride will significantly increase. I have them on my truck now because I've been testing different setups and I've come up with the best match. Haven't decided whether to make them stock height or with a little lift in them. I'm in Kansas City area and only have one bad section of highway close to me to test and is why I need a couple testers in the bad sections.

 

Shocks:

Rancho RS5000 Rear Shocks
RS5324 (No Parts Pack)
TOYOTA — Pickup Tundra 4 W.D. 2007 Rear

Rancho RS9000XL Rear Shocks
RS999324 (No Parts Pack)
TOYOTA — Pickup Tundra 4 W.D. 2007 Rear

anyone have these yet? I assume the 4WD shocks will work on the 2WD trucks.

 

Another TS member, Teacozy, mentioned in another post thread that he drove around with some weight in the back for a week or so. This caused the suspension to break in a bit and apparently stopped the bouncing.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/106369-ok-been-6-weeks-4600-miles/

 

There's another post that showed up today claiming that Rancho shocks eliminate the bounce --- scroll down to a post that starts "bed bounce eliminated" --- or something like that.

For the what it's worth column -- I drive the 5 daily between the 55 and the 91. Seems to me like 75 mph gets me out of the "bed bounce" harmonic range and smooths the ride out a lot --- obviously some sections of road and lanes are worse than others.

 

I just got my '07 CM on friday at SJC, and 90% of my mileage has been up/down the 5 through OC since then for various reasons. I noticed the bumping really takes off around 70MPH and above. Not nearly as bad/noticable below that. I assumed (as Teacozy pointed out) that after a little wear-in it will reduce. I'm not sure I want to specifically modify the springs or shocks (yet). I'll have a tonneau in a couple weeks so I'll see if that weight helps at all.

California freeways...gotta love 'em.

 

I should have the fix ready by tomorrow. Just need to install the rivets for the clips. I will be looking for a couple of testers in California because that's where the problem seems to be the worst. Basically it's a 3 leaf replacement for the overload to allow the springs to flex more instead of being stopped. The payload will decrease a few hundred pounds but the ride will significantly increase. I have them on my truck now because I've been testing different setups and I've come up with the best match. Haven't decided whether to make them stock height or with a little lift in them. I'm in Kansas City area and only have one bad section of highway close to me to test and is why I need a couple testers in the bad sections.

GeneralSpring, that's what I'm talking about! Sign me up as a tester. Your theory is that the overload springs are preventing the leaf pack from getting nice progressive travel? Interesting. I think you should sell both a lift version and non-lift. I personally would buy the non-lifted leaves.

 

I drove through Oklahoma City towing a travel trailer last week. I-40 is a mess and the bounce was unbelievable. My truck was loaded and pulling a 5700lb travel trailer and we were miserable. I really think that the spacing between the concrete slabs in relation to the wheelbase of the Tundra is the primary issue. It seems as though the front wheels and the back wheels are hitting the slabs at the same time and causing the severe reaction.

I want to clarify my problem. I have been on I-44 in Missouri and exprienced the same problem. Concrete slab spacing is what I attribute the problem to.

That being said, I don't see the issue as a large problem for me because I don't drive on those roads very often. If I did, I would be looking to modify the suspension in order to combat the problem.

 

I drove through Oklahoma City towing a travel trailer last week. I-40 is a mess and the bounce was unbelievable. My truck was loaded and pulling a 5700lb travel trailer and we were miserable. I really think that the spacing between the concrete slabs in relation to the wheelbase of the Tundra is the primary issue. It seems as though the front wheels and the back wheels are hitting the slabs at the same time and causing the severe reaction..

Two interesting things you brought up: one is that weight, either from a trailer or in the bed/cab doesn't always help. The other is wheelbase. I remember reading that a few longbed, longer wheelbase DoubleCabs had the same bounce. If so, then it's not the wheelbase that's the issue. Anyone with a longbed DC?

 

Good post jakehere....I'm tagging this for later.

 

I just got my '07 CM on friday at SJC, and 90% of my mileage has been up/down the 5 through OC since then for various reasons. I noticed the bumping really takes off around 70MPH and above. Not nearly as bad/noticable below that. I assumed (as Teacozy pointed out) that after a little wear-in it will reduce. I'm not sure I want to specifically modify the springs or shocks (yet). I'll have a tonneau in a couple weeks so I'll see if that weight helps at all.

California freeways...gotta love 'em.

get the truck up to 75-80mph bed bounce is significantly reduced... not that this is safe or anything... but just an observation... at 65-73 mph i have my eardrums almost falling out... but above 75 i feel like i am driving on glass

 

get the truck up to 75-80mph bed bounce is significantly reduced... not that this is safe or anything... but just an observation... at 65-73 mph i have my eardrums almost falling out... but above 75 i feel like i am driving on glass

I like to drive right around 72-74MPH to avoid tickets. (A tip from my last traffic school instructor.) Plus with traffic, etc, it's hard a lot of times to get over 75 around here...

Interesting though that at higher speeds the problem goes away. The tire must be skimming the tops of the concrete, like a trophy truck in baja, at those speeds.

 

I like to drive right around 72-74MPH to avoid tickets. (A tip from my last traffic school instructor.) Plus with traffic, etc, it's hard a lot of times to get over 75 around here...

Interesting though that at higher speeds the problem goes away. The tire must be skimming the tops of the concrete, like a trophy truck in baja, at those speeds.

must be... it is just wayyyy too dangerous to be not going those speeds... the truck shakes soo much that it feels like it is going to shake itself to pieces... i wonder if toyota will be doing anything about this situation..

 

I put the ShurTrax traction control bag in my bed and it has definately helped on the freeways in San Diego. I did take a drive to palm Springs last week and the I-10 was really bad right outside of Beaumont. Not even the 400 lbs. of water in my bed would smooth it out. I keep meaning to take the water out of the Shurtrax to see if my suspension has 'broken in" any. I really don't want to have to go to the trouble of replacing shocks and springs in my brand new truck. I personally like the stiff ride and can live with the bounce.

 

Here's the deal - if you don't live in California and have freeways that are designed like ours with the concave concrete sections that create whoop-de-doos, you won't understand. I've lived out of state before and driven all around the country, our freeways here are unique. So don't even post responses saying that 'it's a truck, it's supposed to ride like that" or "my tundra is fine, you're crazy" etc etc. You have to drive this road to know. We also have a toll road freeway here I drive often with no problems, smooth ride at any MPH. It's just the I-5 freeway for me that's a prob. with the concrete sections.

The Salt Lake Valley area in Utah has a few roads of similar construction, and the bed bounce is noticible and intrusive. Luckily most of the roads that cause the issue are avoidable for me....

3. Sway bar, TRD or other

A sway bar will do nothing to help this issue, as they control side-to-side weight transfer, and the bounce issue is in an up-down motion.

4. Raise front end to put more weight on rear, to change weight distribution closer to 50/50.

Interesting thought, and one I don't think I would have come up with! BUT I doubt there'd be much weight transfer in raising the front a couple of inches...

Good luck, and if you do find something that helps, please post it here!!!

 

i agree with azn tundra .. once you pass 75 mph it goes away .. i dont see it to be a problem with the truck but more of a problem caused by the roads ... i have been in a f350 on the same roads and it does the same thing ...

 

I had my friends in the back with my almost 2 y.o. last night and as we cruised up inter. 280 from san jose towards S.F. the ride was needless to say rather jarring. once I got up to around 75 mph it smoothed out nicely. When we arrived at the destination for dinner I told my friend that the ride is only like that on th concrete sections and he said his '07 F250 4X4 4 door super duty 3/4 ton long bed actually road worse on that same exact freeway. He has a large knaap tool box in the back also. The ride for me has smoothed out the more I drive it but some patches are still jittery. I still love my truck!!!

 

i drive a rcsb and there is this patch of freeway on hwy 82 in sunnyvale that sucks. and its the same patched concrete thing i think everyone is talking about. i was going around 70ish mph. i read somewhere on one of these post about going above 75, i did it for a while, and it seemed to get better. i've onlyhad it happen on that one stretch. i've only got 600 miles on my truck, so i think it should get better in the future. i'm also thinking of getting some rocks or something from lowe's to weigh it down a bit. it couldn't hurt.

 

I also live in so cal but havn't gotten my tundra yet, but as soon as I do I'd be willing to try things if I have the same problems..
On a side note, Has anyone noticed the construction they've done recently in the middle of the night? Now along the 5 there are small square patches, about the square-footage of a small room, that are slightly raised up compared to the rest of the freeway. I saw them out there sawing and using heavy machinery messing with the road and the next day I saw these new alien landing pads disbursed along the freeway. What the heck are they doing?
Back to the subject, do TRD Tundras also suffer the bouncing?

 

i drive a rcsb and there is this patch of freeway on hwy 82 in sunnyvale that sucks. and its the same patched concrete thing i think everyone is talking about. i was going around 70ish mph. i read somewhere on one of these post about going above 75, i did it for a while, and it seemed to get better. i've onlyhad it happen on that one stretch. i've only got 600 miles on my truck, so i think it should get better in the future. i'm also thinking of getting some rocks or something from lowe's to weigh it down a bit. it couldn't hurt.

I put 150 lbs crushed gravel that I bought from Lowe's. I positioned mine next to the tailgate cause I want the rear suspension to dip more but I don't want to add more weight to the truck. It works great. I even oiled up the leaf springs and it helped too. This weekend I removed the gravel and unfortunately the bounce is still there. My rear tires are at 32 psi cold. The bounce I have is the one similar to the video. One side of the bed goes up and then it slams down, producing that shudder effect and the slamming noise. My next step is to install a TRD Sway Bar. This will minimize frame twist as the sway bar links the frame directly to the axle. By the way, I have a Sports Appearance Package so as a result I don't have a hitch reciever. Nothing connects the left and right frames together toward the rear. I can grab a corner of the bed wall next to the tail light and pull it down and you can see that side dips down while the other side almost did not move. I've read somewhere in the forum that a frame reinforcement is in the works by an aftermarket manufacturer.

 

Two words...Resonance Frequency. Research that and you will better understand why the bed is bouncing. Speculation can take you in every direction and may solve some problems but the same principle of skyscraper mechanics can be applied to our trucks. Ever wonder why a 6.2 magnitude earthquake can bring down one building but the one next to it is just fine? Resonance frequency. But i am rather partial to the prerunner setup of lifting the front end. Fat Flares and some extended arms, a 5 in. lift in the rear and a 7 up front. Mickey Thompson rubber and rims...SWEET!!

 

GeneralSpring, I drive a very bumpy route daily and would love to test your springs. I'd be interested in the non-lift.

Didn't you put on new shocks too? Did the shocks make a noticable difference in itself?

 

Two words...Resonance Frequency. Research that and you will better understand why the bed is bouncing.

I hear what you're saying, but how can you explain the long beds, which have a longer wheelbase, with the same problem?

 

The Salt Lake Valley area in Utah has a few roads of similar construction, and the bed bounce is noticeable and intrusive. Luckily most of the roads that cause the issue are avoidable for me....

Just want to add that last weekend I was in SLC and on the roads you described to me, including the road out to the airport from 215 as well as 15 south from Farmington in the right lane, we had the same oscilation in a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500. Pretty annoying.

 

Two words...Resonance Frequency. Research that and you will better understand why the bed is bouncing. Speculation can take you in every direction and may solve some problems but the same principle of skyscraper mechanics can be applied to our trucks. Ever wonder why a 6.2 magnitude earthquake can bring down one building but the one next to it is just fine? Resonance frequency. But i am rather partial to the prerunner setup of lifting the front end. Fat Flares and some extended arms, a 5 in. lift in the rear and a 7 up front. Mickey Thompson rubber and rims...SWEET!!

Enlighten us would you? Are you a automotive engineer? Have you done work in vibrations or dynamics in automotive industry? If you know so much then whats the fix? Furthermore people shouldent have to fix an issue like this with a new truck. Its expected to ride compliant on all terrian from the factory.

 

I don't live in California, but I am very concerned about this. I'm taking a road trip next week about 4 hours and don't want to encounter this on some random highway. Also I do alot of driving in P.A. and they have concrete highways hence my conern....

Well I don't know much about Truck suspensions but I do know ATV suspension pretty well my 1 ATV(honda TRX450R) has front shocks that cost $1000 alone. Reason for them is that they are fully adjustable, compression and rebound. From what I have read it sounds like it may be a rebound issue. I'm not sure it speeding it up or slowing it down (the compression) will help, but if any of the shocks are adjustable that would be great to try.

If people feel less bounce at higher speeds then maybe a slower rebound would be better. Are these Rancho shocks adjustable? I know with my atv situations like this the compression would need to made all the way soft and rebound set as slow as possible. this would cause the back end to come up really slow when going over the ruff stuff so does not bounce you around alot.

Don't some of the TRD Tundra's come with Rancho shocks on them from Toyota? If so has anyone tried on of these??