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Good work. I also want to share my views with this post. These are:
Find the spark plugs, located in a row along one side of the engine (on an in-line 4-cylinder engine) and attached to thick wires, called spark plug wires. Cars with V-shaped engines (which can have 4, 6 or 8 cylinders) will have spark plugs and spark plug wires on both sides of the engine.

Change 1 spark plug at a time, always putting the plug wire back on before changing the next spark plug

Pull off one spark plug wire where it attaches to the plug. There is a little rubber boot at the plug end of the wire; pull on this part. Pulling higher up on the wire can damage the spark plug wire and cause it to separate.

With the spark plug socket and a ratchet, remove the spark plug by turning it in a counterclockwise direction. You may need an extension for your ratchet if the spark plugs are deep-set or not directly accessible. Ratchets with flexible heads are especially helpful for hard-to-reach spark plugs.

by Locksmiths Leeds


 
Some notes on 6cyl plug replacement

Just changed the plugs in my 2004 6cyl Tundra. Quite easy, but here are some things I came across:

On the passenger side you have to remove the coils. To get at them, you will have to move the air intake assembly to the side. Unsnap the air filter cover, loosen the large hose clamp at the intake manifold that keeps the hose to the manifold and pull off the hose, remove the short vacuum line, and the whole assy can be moved to the side to access the coils.

The coils have very short wires running to a wiring harness that is held in a plastic keeper bolted to the intake manifold. If you remove the two bolts holding the keeper to the manifold, the coils can be withdrawn from the spark plug tube without breaking the plastic keeper (first hand knowledge). Remove the coils starting with the rearmost and working forward. Replace in the reverse direction.


Richard
 
I bought new Pulstar plugs. They have increased my mileage in all my other vehicles I have installed them in. GMC, Burbs and Sonomas, and a Mercedes E320. Anyone had these in their Tundras? Thanks in advance
They are useless in the 2UZFE.
 
Thanks for this how-to guide- My question is regarding plug gap:

Reading this tutorial and thread- seems TS members are gapping iridium's at .0030-.0032. My 2005's owners manual specifies .0043. Is there a reason for the smaller gap over the factory reccomended .0043?
 
The thread showed me where the spark plugs are located since I could not see them when looking at the engine. Reading the thread, I see where some of you are getting 16-20 mpg on your Tundras. I have a 2009 SR5 with the 4.7 V-8 but the best that I'm getting on the highway is 15.4 MPG. I'm considering changing my plugs even though I have only 57,000 miles on the truck. I'm also considering installing the advertised electrode that supposedly increases horsepower and milage. My driving consists of driving to and from work (5 miles one way), riding in the country to take photos of homes and mobile homes that I have insured and interstate driving. Do you think replacing the plugs and installing this electrode will increase my milage?

Thanks for your feedback.

Pat
 
I'd recommend you replace with the EXACT NGK plugs listed in your owner's manual. NGK plugs come pre-gapped so shouldn't need to mess with regapping (unless the plug has been dropped on end).
 
Just got some Denso SK20HR11 Iridium Long Life Spark Plug from Advance Auto....Gonna put them in my 2008 Tundra SR5 DC that has 57k on it right now.....was reading all weekend on the net about which plugs to put in, and decided to get these, although I haven't taken out any of the old ones yet to see exactly which brand/model they are....heres hopin'

Anyone else using these Denso instead of the NGK?

And with all the gaping talk on the forums I decided to go ahead and spend the exorbitant amount of $1.99 for the little disc style gap tool and each plug measured 1mm

Also decided to order up some Rancho Quicklifts Loaded and 9000XLs today, but that for another thread:beavbutt:
 
So I changed my plugs yesterday with the Denso's same model as what came out of the truck.....like one guy said some where on the forum...runs really smooth now and it runs much better driving up long hills in town where it used to feel like the truck was in the wrong gear.....we'll see how they hold up to a 4000 mile road trip in the next couple weeks!

Wanted to ask people about this though....if you check out the pic I took of the pack that came off the spark plug, you'll see this brown stuff on the lower end of the pack. Looked like rust and was on almost all the packs, it was dry and came off when I rubbed it with my finger....not really sure what it is....any ideas???


 
So I changed my plugs yesterday with the Denso's same model as what came out of the truck.....like one guy said some where on the forum...runs really smooth now and it runs much better driving up long hills in town where it used to feel like the truck was in the wrong gear.....we'll see how they hold up to a 4000 mile road trip in the next couple weeks!

Wanted to ask people about this though....if you check out the pic I took of the pack that came off the spark plug, you'll see this brown stuff on the lower end of the pack. Looked like rust and was on almost all the packs, it was dry and came off when I rubbed it with my finger....not really sure what it is....any ideas???

View attachment 46574
Did you try a magnet on the stuff? If it's rust, it should still be attracted to a magnet. Was the spark plug tube rusted on the inside? Maybe it rubbed off when you were removing/installing the coil... ;)

Another test is to do a chemical test on it. Some rust removal should work...if it turns the proper color...then it's got iron in it. ;)
 
Hey thanks for the tutorial. I have been searching all day I have a 2007 tundra with the 4.7 which has these silly blocks mounted over the back two cylinders with a flex tube comming from the engine connecting to the part.. I understand it should be removed but what's the best way to get the bottom bolts off?
 
Hey thanks for the tutorial. I have been searching all day I have a 2007 tundra with the 4.7 which has these silly blocks mounted over the back two cylinders with a flex tube comming from the engine connecting to the part.. I understand it should be removed but what's the best way to get the bottom bolts off?
Ok found the right tools. Completed my spark plug change just now and I started the truck and on the dash most all of the dummy lights are on. The check engine lights on solid. The traction lug is on solid. The VSC off light is blinking and the 4LO light is blinking. Engine is running smooth has anyone seen this?
 
For what it's worth, just changed spark plugs on my 2001 4.7 V-8 Tundra and replaced the installed Denso's listed in owners handbook with new NGK BKR6EGP plugs at about $3 a piece at O'Reilly Auto. These are a platinum plug and are a step up from the NGK's also listed in the handbook. Runs great on the new BKR6EGP's.

Only issue I noted during RR was some plugs were hard to remove (required quite a bit of torque to unthread) until they were almost completely removed. Looking at the removed plugs I'm guessing I used too much anti-seize on some when I last replaced the plugs at 60K miles. Otherwise, it was a piece of cake changing them out.:eek:
 
Just changed the plugs on my 07 5.7 with 106k miles. Replaced them with the same Denso's that came oem. Very easy with basic tools, the old ones were mostly tan, but clearly starting to erode. Used dielectric grease on the tips and anti-seize(small amount) on the threads. Hopefully my mileage will slightly increase, we'll see.
 
I got a used 2004 Tundra DC Limited two years ago (Oct 2010) and the plugs had never been replaced at 50k miles so i opted for some NGK Iridiums. I always buy NGK since i've never had a problem with them and they have been great, no problems.

Hopefully the longer life and more precise spark justifies the additional expense, but really, since you only have to replace spark plugs very infrequently anyway why not go with a higher end plug (seriously, 8 of these plugs cost less than a tank of gas in this truck so why not, they're supposed to last a lot longer).

Here's a link to the ones i got on Amazon, i order most of my parts online just for the sake of ease and low price, just make sure the fit calculator says it fits your year and model:

NGK (6418) BKR6EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug
Image


Save yourself some money and get the parts and change them yourself!
 
Need some help. Dealer wanted $229 to change the spark plugs on my 2005 Tundra v8 4.7 engine......so I decided to use the diy thread to change them myself. Here is my problem:

My manual says use NGK IFR6A11 with gap .43 (pre gapped I think....manual says do not adjust gap). However, all I see on ebay and at NGK web site for my vehicle is NGK IFR6T11 with a listed gap of .44.

Can anyone clarify this discrepancy and suggest if the .44 gapped plug is ok to use?

Thanks,
Paul
 
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