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Need some help. Dealer wanted $229 to change the spark plugs on my 2005 Tundra v8 4.7 engine......so I decided to use the diy thread to change them myself. Here is my problem:

My manual says use NGK IFR6A11 with gap .43 (pre gapped I think....manual says do not adjust gap). However, all I see on ebay and at NGK web site for my vehicle is NGK IFR6T11 with a listed gap of .44.

Can anyone clarify this discrepancy and suggest if the .44 gapped plug is ok to use?

Thanks,
Paul
Hey there I know this post is older so it's probably a moot point, but you should be fine using the NGK recommended gap.

Just a note though, in the manual for my 2004 Tundra 4.7L V8 it lists 2 engines with very different gap specs, one is for the V6 and the other the V8:

5VZ-FE Engine (.043 gap) - this is a V6 engine
2UZ-FE Engine (.031 gap) - this is a V8 engine

Just make sure you're looking at the proper spec for the engine you have ...

Here is a write up I did on changing spark plugs that was intended to include as many photos as possible, but it all started right here with the excellent PDF tutorial posted so this is my addition/contribution to that:


Toyota Tundra Spark Replacement How To Guide
 
Ok found the right tools. Completed my spark plug change just now and I started the truck and on the dash most all of the dummy lights are on. The check engine lights on solid. The traction lug is on solid. The VSC off light is blinking and the 4LO light is blinking. Engine is running smooth has anyone seen this?
I changed my plugs and air filter and had the same thing happen....dash lit up like a Christmas tree but running smooth. Did you ever find out what the problem was? I've thoroughly searched and found nothing.
 
Don't have a specific answer, but I'd guess you failed to connect something. With all those lights on, it's bound to be throwing some codes, do you have a code checker? Newegg has an OBDII code scanner on sale for $15 today, hard to beat that price.
 
My truck has 148k miles about and I don't think the spark plugs has ever been changed. I'm going to change them in a few days but I was wondering what should I use to remove them if their stuck?
 
My truck has 148k miles about and I don't think the spark plugs has ever been changed. I'm going to change them in a few days but I was wondering what should I use to remove them if their stuck?
Very carefully get them moving and keep working them back and forth in opposite directions. Don't go to hard on the force and twist off the plug. Once it moves some you could get some penetrating fluid down the hole, but I really don't like doing that as the threads are then coated with that oil that will burn in.
 
Just replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 today. It took less than an hour and around $33 bucks for 8 Denso platinum plugs.
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Was looking for part numbers today and came across this on NGK's website.
NGK Spark Plugs

Quote: "1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."

Would you still use Anti-Seize, but back down the torque, or do you trust NGK and run them dry?
Looking at the Iridium NGKs... NGK's website says this is the part #: NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs BKR6EIX-11 or NGK 4589 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs IFR6T11
 
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