Buy couple tools and take the sway bar on and off as you want.

 

I don't like bolting and unbolting components because I find over time the bolts get stripped so that wouldn't be my "ideal" way of doing things. I know disconnects have been discussed on here. Here is a website that I just came across, I honestly just skimmed through it but I figured some of you guys might want to check it out Sway Bar Disconnects

I also read up on the smart bar (front sway bar) that dodge put on their power wagons, does anybody know how this thing actually works and would it be possible to design something similar where instead of activating or deactivating depending on speed, it could just be wired into a switch.

 

You want too many thing out from a truck. It is hard to keep both on road and off road performance together. That's why somebody lower their truck while others lift it up. Since most time you are on the road not off road, a set of sway bar will be better.

 

Haha ya your right, i'm pretty greedy, I do want the best of both worlds. I think I'll get the bar and then build a custom disconnect and extend the end links to keep the bar working the way it is supposed to. Has anybody who has a sway bar tried to make disconnects or thought about ideas? I don't have one in front of me so it's hard to think what will work and what definitely won't work.

 

The best of both worlds does exist. The problems are, it's hard to find, and the rear system doesn't bolt in.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/200964-active-sway-bars-kdss/

 

That's exactly what I'm looking for. On the landcruiser i'm a little confused as to whether it is controlled automatically or manually. Also how exactly does it work, to me it looks as though the hydraulic (which looks like a shock) loosens or tightens depending on driving conditions. could that peice just be used in place of and end link in a sense. I know it wouldn't be as easy as just bolting it in place but am I thinking along the right track. I wish you had more pictures on that thread. Thanks for the info.

 

The cheapest and most practical answer is swaybar quick disconnects. Find some of the right length and you're looking at just a few minutes to disconnect or connect when you need the extra articulation or when you're back on the road. The sway bar and top halves of the end links will stay in place out of the way with the friction of the bushings alone, and you can always zip tie them up out of the way to be sure. I never had a problem with just pushing them up and leaving them (on my Jeep back in the day). I'm sure advanced hydraulic compensating systems provide unique benefits and stuff...but it might not be feasible on your Tundra unless you've got the budget for it. Quick disconnects are a pretty cheap and fool-proof option.

 

This might help if you go this route...

Sway Bar Quick Disconnect End Link - Suspension Components - Lift Kits, Suspensions and Shocks - by 4 Wheel Parts

 

thanks for the link. there are quite a few to choose from. Do you know if thy are all interchangeable with both the hellwig and trd? also could I use them as extenders to drop the sway bar back to its original position?

 

As long as the width and diameters of the eyes on the endlinks are the same (which most should be very close), end links are end links. They will probably come with the appropriate bushings, but if the width is much wider, you might need longer bolts. You'll want to make sure the inside diameter of the eye bushings (and bolt diameter) is the same. Many endlinks are thread adjustable and you should be able to get some to get the the bar back down to where it should be with the suspension lift. I don't know what a good rule of thumb is as far as end links being too long, though. The force going through them is generally linear in compression/tension between the bar and your frame, so that helps. The thicker the diameter of the endlink itself, the better, the longer you go (to deal with the increased length and any torsion they have to bear being longer).

 

i've been looking at lifts so I have also been looking into aftermarket leaf springs as well to eliminate the blocks. I'm assuming bigger stronger leafs would stop axle wrap so it would basically do the same job as a sway bar while giving me more travel at the same time for an extra 500 bucks or so. Would it prevent sway as well to. Is there anything that a sway bar does that bigger leafs don't do?

 

i've been looking at lifts so I have also been looking into aftermarket leaf springs as well to eliminate the blocks. I'm assuming bigger stronger leafs would stop axle wrap so it would basically do the same job as a sway bar while giving me more travel at the same time for an extra 500 bucks or so. Would it prevent sway as well to. Is there anything that a sway bar does that bigger leafs don't do?

Wrong, your still gonna get axle wrap as it has to do with two different aspects of the rearend. "Axle Wrap" can come from both the axle creating enough torque to roll the entire leaf spring forward "or" from the U-bolt position not being strong enough allowing the axle to rotate inside of it. The second one is your most common as to "roll" a leaf spring on any vehicle prior to loosing traction is extremely difficult. Why "axle wrap" becomes more common with lift blocks is you are creating a longer distance between the top of the axle and the u-bolt plate under the axle allowing for a weaker point in the middle thus allowing the axle to create a gap in between the block and the axle plate.

Your best bet is to go with shackles if you don't want to do blocks or add a leaf. Unless you just want to shell out a good amount of money for a new set of leafs to lift you the desired height your looking for. Or you can just get someone to fab a set of ladder bars and cure it all and get away a cheaper set of lift blocks.

 

i've been looking at lifts so I have also been looking into aftermarket leaf springs as well to eliminate the blocks. I'm assuming bigger stronger leafs would stop axle wrap so it would basically do the same job as a sway bar while giving me more travel at the same time for an extra 500 bucks or so. Would it prevent sway as well to. Is there anything that a sway bar does that bigger leafs don't do?

Wrong, your still gonna get axle wrap as it has to do with two different aspects of the rearend. "Axle Wrap" can come from both the axle creating enough torque to roll the entire leaf spring forward "or" from the U-bolt position not being strong enough allowing the axle to rotate inside of it. The second one is your most common as to "roll" a leaf spring on any vehicle prior to loosing traction is extremely difficult. Why "axle wrap" becomes more common with lift blocks is you are creating a longer distance between the top of the axle and the u-bolt plate under the axle allowing for a weaker point in the middle thus allowing the axle to create a gap in between the block and the axle plate.

Your best bet is to go with shackles if you don't want to do blocks or add a leaf. Unless you just want to shell out a good amount of money for a new set of leafs to lift you the desired height your looking for. Or you can just get someone to fab a set of ladder bars and cure it all and get away a cheaper set of lift blocks.

 

traction bars were another option I was looking at seeing as I am going to eventually get the bds lift, pro-comp makes a set. Do these do the same thing as a sway bar? What are the differences between the two?

 

traction bars were another option I was looking at seeing as I am going to eventually get the bds lift, pro-comp makes a set. Do these do the same thing as a sway bar? What are the differences between the two?

Your biggest issue is that you are going to want articulation while off road. Using ladder bars or stiffer leaf springs will reduce this when you need it. A sway bar with disconnects will give you the best of both worlds in most cases. Preventing the sway motion comes from linking both ends of the axle together by a common bar thus a sway bar. Nothing else is going to give you this stability. Adding ladder bars will only give you another strength point to keep the axle from wanting to roll or one side to pull if you are pushed up to something with heavy resistance. It will inhibit how much the axle can move in all directions.