[Remmy700P]

I have a few questions for the battery people in here. I have the stock Toyota battery in my 06 Dcab, with All Weather Package and Tow package. I know one of those options upgraded to a heavy duty battery.
When I bought the truck last June with 26K on it, the battery was causing puffy green corrosion on the mounting brace, and spilling down the sides of the battery, onto and over the tray, and onto the paint underneath. I thought it was just lack of maintenance and cleaned up the battery and surrounding area.

So, 8k miles later, its doing it all over again, and this time I can tell that it looks like the battery is out-gassing or something, because the top of the battery around the vents looks damp and collecting dust.
Also, the battery check window is black.

So does all this mean its time to replace the battery?
If so, what options do I have for a completely sealed unit that will not need vents?
What exactly does the 27F mean? I am pretty sure mine says 27R...
I am only used to choosing a battery by how high the CCAs are…

Not only is it outgassing via the vents, internal pressures have developed such that it has ruptured the casing. Check your terminal-to-post and ground connections.

You risking getting yourself stranded somewhere, and you're also allowing all that corrosive acid to eat away at your engine bay. Not good.

This is not one of those things that you can put off. Replace it today.

The AGM ("absorptive glass mat", where the electrolyte is absorbed in a matrix of glass fibers, which holds the electrolyte next to the plate, and immobilizes it preventing spills) batteries are considered "sealed" batteries. You will pay for this feature. Odyssey, Optima, and the Sears DieHard Platinum (rebranded Odyssey) are your options. They're around $190-$200.

As was previously stated, the "F" battery designation refers to an old Ford configuration that essentially reversed the poles. I haven't seen a 27R, but a 24R is referenced in the group size chart. You want a battery that says the negative is on the right.

Here's a good reference page on battery group size dimensions.

 

[HawkFanatic]

Thanks guys... I've been shopping around and found these: http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1143.pdf

Anyone with experience with them?

 

[Remmy700P]

Thanks guys... I've been shopping around and found these:

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1143.pdf

Anyone with experience with them?

The problem with these independent brands is ease of replacement. You have a problem with it on the road and you're screwed. That's why I would stick with the Duralast (AutoZone), DieHard (Sears), Kirkland (Costco), and the EverStart (Walmart) brands. They're high quality, plus addressing warranty concerns is easy no matter where you are.

My $0.02.

 

[chichi]

I can't yet speak about my Tundra battery as I have a 2012 but I have my 2nd boat that uses 4 batteries which are (deep cycle). I use Walmart Everstart batteries and have found them to be a great battery and cheap compaired to others. We have 25 boats in my club and alot of different batteries are used that cost a great deal more. Alot of the guys have changed to WallyWorld. I know there are probably better built batteries out there but I would put the Wally batteries a "bettery" deal. Their return policy is great and alot of stores to get service, the quality is good and the cost is much lower than others. Just my opinion. ChiChi

 

[skypros]

It finally died.... it was 10 1/2 years old with 69,0000 on the Tundra.
The old original OEM battery (27R) and my new battery 27F-DLG Duralast from Auto Zone.
OEM Toyota price was $155
Auto Zone price was $110
Since the 27F is such a hard battery to get.... I am going to assUme that the OEM Toyota and the Duralast are made by the same manufacture.
I didn't want to go with the 24F.... because it is a smaller battery (it is used in a Camry)

New Duralast 27F-DLG

Old Original OEM Toyota 27R

My 2002 V8 Tundras battery is finally going bad..... It is a 27R as it was part of a "weather" package. The battery is 8 years 9 months old (truck has 63,000 miles on it)
I am in a cold climate (can get into the negative digits)

Does anyone know where to get a 27R or a 27F...... In Bend Oregon (before I drive to costco, wally world, sears ETC)

And what is the difference between the 27 "R" and the 27 "F"

Thanks in advance

 

[OkieOFT]

Ewww...Neverstart...Good luck exchanging that thing, they put it on a machine that takes like 8 hours to figure out if the battery is bad. I took the Valucraft battery that was installed in my truck when I bought it into autozone and they tested it in about 30 seconds, told me it was bad and with a coupon I got on here got a Duralast Gold for about $5. I will never put a Neverstart in a vehicle I own again.

 

[Remmy700P]

The DuraLast Gold 24F has better CCA/CA numbers than that 27F... just so you know...

 

[Remmy700P]

...I didn't want to go with the 24F.... because it is a smaller battery (it is used in a Camry)...

Don't assume battery CCAs/CAs/Reserve power is a direct function of size. My DuraLast Gold 24F has higher numbers than your 27...

 

[UPbuilder]

Ewww...Neverstart...Good luck exchanging that thing, they put it on a machine that takes like 8 hours to figure out if the battery is bad. I took the Valucraft battery that was installed in my truck when I bought it into autozone and they tested it in about 30 seconds, told me it was bad and with a coupon I got on here got a Duralast Gold for about $5. I will never put a Neverstart in a vehicle I own again.

Completely agree. Those Walmart batteries are junk, used to buy them years ago because they were cheap and not a one of them lasted. They may be made by one of the big battery manufacturers, but I'm convinced they are sub standard to other lines. Save your receipt because you'll need it.

 

[SuckersWalk]

Update: After 22 months, my Everstart Maxx 24FN made my Johnson Controls is still going strong.

 

[SuckersWalk]

Ewww...Neverstart...Good luck exchanging that thing, they put it on a machine that takes like 8 hours to figure out if the battery is bad. I will never put a Neverstart in a vehicle I own again.

Not true.

After a few days below zero temps and a slow startup today, battery died while I was waiting on the misses at the doctor's office. Guess listening to the radio for 45 mins was too much for the batt in this arctic vortex blast we're having, and I needed a jump. Dropped the misses off at home and drove straight to Walmart. I yanked out the battery in the parking lot, threw it in a shopping cart and wheeled it through the snow and into the tire center. I was 3 weeks out of the full replacement warranty, so I had to apply a little pressure on the clerk to do an even swap; she complied. Best part, no testing of old battery at all.

This time I ended up with a EverStart Maxx 24F. There was no "N" designator on this battery, and the CCA has been bumped up to 750 from 700 of the 24FN I returned.

 

[Tundra1Dan]

This is the exact battery I bought yesterday for my truck. If it goes bad I will return it , and the good thing is I got it thru a buddies employee discount. So far the truck turns over a lot faster.

 

[Remmy700P]

I've been telling folks that when replacing their Tundra battery, the group size 24F, although the same dimensions as a 27F but 1.5" shorter, generally has a higher CCA/CA rating.

You can't judge a battery on its size/dimensions.

I think the "N" designation refers to the region/temperature code of 'North', i.e. supposedly designed for colder latitudes. I've never understood exactly how this correlates to a real-world scenario, unless there's some sort of difference in the case design.

 

[SuckersWalk]

Yup, that's what the N means. I was just surprised to find no designation as all batts I've seen around here when I've looked had an N. Not that I care because if it gets week before 1/6/17, I'll go exchange it for 25 mins of my time.

 

[Jonesy]

Years ago I bought a used Tundra WT with the cold weather package which included the giant 27F battery. The battery died and I ran all over San Diego looking for a replacement ~ couldn't find it in stock anywhere except my local Toyota dealership.

Next time the battery fails I'll be buying the smaller 24F battery tray and battery to match at my local Big Box Store. I really don't need the supposed extra capacity of the 27F and the 24F is much more readily available if not a little less expensive as well.

I told a 'Little White Lie' to the parts man and got the battery at a very good price ~ about the same as the 24F at Wal-Mart, or Sears.

 

[Cdubz24]

Stick with atleast a 27F-72 (72 is heavier than a 60 and is also a 72month warranty) If you have accessories, winch, speakers, aftermarket lighting etc, i would use a optima yellow top, it has reserve power to run those accessories. The 24f(cause it is smaller) will fit but is not recommended for larger trucks. The cca is the starting power in the cold. you want atleast 700cca. Funny thing people do not understand about batteries is heat is worse than the cold for a battery, and the "insulators" are more for hotter climates. Batteries are a perishable item, so the younger the better. There are only a few manufactures, most of of mexico now, but a gel cell or AGM is better for life and power, safety, also more expensive.
Honestly, I run what Me and my Dad ( opened battery specialist in 84 )( opened exide in alaska in the 90's, now opened deka up here. ) call Refurbs, used batteries (yr or newer ) that came in to our shop that when charged still held a good load. People often leave lights on which discharges the battery, making it "dead" a new battery that has been discharged can be fully charged and brought back to almost as good as new, im sure you will lose some CCA, but in most instances if will be perfectly fine. Another good thing when battery shopping, If your cables are long enough, and the battery fits in the tray, ANY battery will work. Make sure it has enough CCA however, I have done/seen many mods to accommodate cheaper or even larger batteries, a simple bungee cord will suffice, if your battery comes out, you have more worries than a simple battery.

 

[Cdubz24]

27f also has more reserve than 24f..... here is the issue with heaviest group 24F, They are a smaller dimension, but have a lot of lead plates, therefore less acid, less cooling, less life, also know as acid starved. The 27F is bigger with more acid, meaning longer battery life. the heaviest 27F i have seen is around 800cca and the heaviest 24f is about 750cca. the heavier 24f has less life/warranty.

 

[bryank]

I had a Napa Legend 710CCA in my old Dakota before i bought the tundra. had it about 6 years and it still cranked strong up until the day i sold it. I used to run the stereo for hours with the truck off and never once ran it down to where i needed a jump. I will definitely get another one for my tundra when the time comes.

 

[Cdubz24]

My 2002 V8 Tundras battery is finally going bad..... It is a 27R as it was part of a "weather" package. The battery is 8 years 9 months old (truck has 63,000 miles on it)
I am in a cold climate (can get into the negative digits)

Does anyone know where to get a 27R or a 27F...... In Bend Oregon (before I drive to costco, wally world, sears ETC)

And what is the difference between the 27 "R" and the 27 "F"

Thanks in advance

The "R" and the "F" have the same "Reversed Terminal" Meaning

 

[Cdubz24]

I have a few questions for the battery people in here. I have the stock Toyota battery in my 06 Dcab, with All Weather Package and Tow package. I know one of those options upgraded to a heavy duty battery.
When I bought the truck last June with 26K on it, the battery was causing puffy green corrosion on the mounting brace, and spilling down the sides of the battery, onto and over the tray, and onto the paint underneath. I thought it was just lack of maintenance and cleaned up the battery and surrounding area.

So, 8k miles later, its doing it all over again, and this time I can tell that it looks like the battery is out-gassing or something, because the top of the battery around the vents looks damp and collecting dust.
Also, the battery check window is black.

So does all this mean its time to replace the battery?
If so, what options do I have for a completely sealed unit that will not need vents?
What exactly does the 27F mean? I am pretty sure mine says 27R...
I am only used to choosing a battery by how high the CCAs are…

I battery Eye being black means it is discharged, or going bad, still might work for awhile while black but it is a maintenance free indicator that the battery is bad. The corrosion build up is normal, It is cause but the gasses venting from being worked. It was be worked "too hard" which will meaning more gasses venting and will eventually evaporate your acid. Cold water and a scrub brush is an easy method to clean this up. then make pads and spray to help prevent corrosion. Corrosion is bad but it you let it get out of control it will cause a poor connection to your battery, if you are having starting problems check your connection first to make sure they are clean an tight. every battery has a vent so in most cases all battery terminals corrode. Mileage has nothing to do with battery life, actually the more you drive the longer the life assuming your alternator is good. Batteries are meant to be used and charged. Letting your battery just sit there, cold or warm, is the worst thing for it. If you aren't using your battery, such as seasonal vehicles, put a small 2amp automatic charge on it until you use the battery again, the auto feature will not let it over charge and will greatly prolong the life or your battery.