you will have no problems if you quickly put Amsoil Sever Gear in the differential. because the diff oil lubs the rear axel bearings. sam

 

you will have no problems if you quickly put Amsoil Sever Gear in the differential. because the diff oil lubs the rear axel bearings. sam

Someone did a write up on it, but i don't know where it is.

But yeah, i knew it was a wet axle type which means the oil lubes the bearings as well as the gears.

Thumbs up for Amsoil SG. :tu: Good stuff, and from all i've read about it it's probably the best you can buy. It's what i'm running in all 3 boxes. It's lowering rear axle temps by as much as 9 degrees F. towing.

I'll also soon be running Amsoil's new ATL trans fluid next spring when i hit the 30k mile mark. The d@mn WS fluid starts to shear at 30k miles; and that was on a tacoma. So much for the so-called lifetime fluid, but you know what they say.......lifetime is only for the lifetime of the warranty. Then you're on your own.

 

Short answer, we need one in our hands, then we can caculate the load.

Long answer...Given the size of the bearing it should have little trouble performing for you. It should be noted that the Tundra uses a ball type bearing for the rear axle and they typically have less load capacity than roller bearings, BUT Toyota uses a very slick and large double row unit which completely changes the game. Balls are more efficient than rollers and althought they carry less, by spreading two rows of them out over a very large area a very efficient bearing with large capacity is created. This allows the bearing to run cooler and take the load longer.

The one downside is they can't be serviced... when they go, they go.... and they are a pita to replace.

 

Thanks, Jowett. . .

I guess, to a certain extent, I'm working as a test platform for the Tundra in towing / heavy payload environment. I'll make sure if I ever do get my rear wheel bearings replaced, I'll send the old bearings on to you to have them torn apart! Of course, I hope that never happens. Speaking of torn apart, I'm kinda glad I'm not in a room with those guys over on RV.net: they're busy tearing me a new orifice because I'm gonna kill someone by overloading my rear axle GAWR by 700 lbs!

I didn't put in Amsoil, but I do have Mobil full synthetic 75/90 gear oil in all three diffs (well front and rear and transfer case). I was not aware that the differential oil lubricates the bearings, although of course it makes sense. That is especially helpful after reading the post in the towing thread about rear diff. temps: even heavy towing the temps stayed low. I guess I won't have to worry too much about a rear differential cooler.

You mentioned PITA to change bearings, is that because you have to disassemble the rear diff to get the axle out due to the semi-floating design? Just looking for clarification here.

 

I'll get you all the measurements of the housing and bearing data asap so you can shut some folks down. The rear axle is just plain overkill on this truck... along with the rest of the truck. I'd say the weakest part of the axle is the 5 bolt hub

The rear shafts with bearings are not difficult to remove from the housing, the diff dosn't need to be touched. It's removing the bearings and retainers from the shaft... special tools and a press make it easy.

 

Speaking of torn apart, I'm kinda glad I'm not in a room with those guys over on RV.net: they're busy tearing me a new orifice because I'm gonna kill someone by overloading my rear axle GAWR by 700 lbs!

You got me curious, so I went over to the other forum and read what they have been saying. I have come to the conclusion that they are not bashing you. They are simply trying to bolster their own pride because they have bought inferior trucks, and spent a lot of money in the process. Not all but some of them will never admit that it is day light outside when the sun is shining, they can’t. They have spent upwards of $35,000.00 betting on it. But it is an entertaining read.
Then again we too have bet a lot of money on our trucks. I personally enjoy the heck out of mine. :thumb:

 

Thanks, Jowett. . .

I guess, to a certain extent, I'm working as a test platform for the Tundra in towing / heavy payload environment. I'll make sure if I ever do get my rear wheel bearings replaced, I'll send the old bearings on to you to have them torn apart! Of course, I hope that never happens. Speaking of torn apart, I'm kinda glad I'm not in a room with those guys over on RV.net: they're busy tearing me a new orifice because I'm gonna kill someone by overloading my rear axle GAWR by 700 lbs!

I didn't put in Amsoil, but I do have Mobil full synthetic 75/90 gear oil in all three diffs (well front and rear and transfer case). I was not aware that the differential oil lubricates the bearings, although of course it makes sense. That is especially helpful after reading the post in the towing thread about rear diff. temps: even heavy towing the temps stayed low. I guess I won't have to worry too much about a rear differential cooler.

You mentioned PITA to change bearings, is that because you have to disassemble the rear diff to get the axle out due to the semi-floating design? Just looking for clarification here.

Three more test platform's here as well TB, and all is well so far.

You failed to mention those temp readings were 9 degrees cooler than one of those HD trucks. 6 degrees cooler on my dad's tundra towing the same weight as you do ( 10 K ), AND my dad's truck was brand new almost running factory fill dino.
These test's were in mild weather as well ( 75-80 Degrees F). I could only imagine what the split would be like in extreme summer heat.

That Amsoil SG fluid is pretty hard to beat from what i've read anyway.

 

I don't want to beat the 5 bolt hub any more to death than it's already been beaten. I do understand that the bolts are a larger diameter or harder alloy or something and therefore according to basic engineering each one is capable individually of carrying more of a load, but even so I was surprised as that there were only 5. Especially since the first generation Tundras, the 4Runners, etc., had 6 bolt wheels. Anyway, I'll shut up about that, but it does bring up another question. I inflate my BFG's to 70 PSI in the rear when hauling my big trailer. Is there any reason that the aluminum wheels would be unable to tolerate these pressures? Again, RV.net propaganda, or worthwhile observation? Any thoughts appreciated. . .

 

Tundra bay I think you should of stayed away from over there your starting to worry to much. I may be wroung but any truck rim should be able to hold the pressure of any tire designed to go on them ,if not it better be well marked. As for the 5 bolt if it couldn't do the job would Toyota set it up that way. If I rember right the 6 hole came about to put even pressure around the old big 4x4 hubs. I stoped posting on the tow thread because a couple took it over and won't let anyone get in edgewise. People try to prve they are wroung but

 

cwit you are so very right. I'm starting to have bad dreams LOL.

I've already towed this thing several thousand miles with no glitches but soon I'm gonna end up buying a Freightliner and posting all over TS that everyone is over their rear axle weight and they're sure to take out an innocent family.

Now if they take out a guilty family, then it's OK then.

I'd love to get a reply from Hino -- or for that matter Toyota -- that says the axle itself is rated for 6,000 lbs. Just for the sh!tfest that that would cause those guys.

Hmm.. 13 more posts and I reach 3K. Is that over my rated post load??

 

Sheet...I'm looking to putting a 1200lb camper on my 4.7 rig.(With airbags and E rated tires too of course)
Looks like I'll be replacing the rear axel bearings frequently.

 

There have been only two forum members that I'm aware of who have ever had to replace the rear wheel bearings. Can't find their posts now, but maybe one of them will note and chime in. I know one of them subjected his Tundra to "severe duty" in the Northern Alberta oil fields, and at the mid 90,000 miles (I think) he had to replace them for a second time.

 

Sheet...I'm looking to putting a 1200lb camper on my 4.7 rig.(With airbags and E rated tires too of course)
Looks like I'll be replacing the rear axel bearings frequently.

I put an almost 2,000 lb camper on my '00 Tundra and hauled it up and down the moutain for years before getting the 5'er, back then they rated my Tundra to carry 2011 lbs... interesting over the following years they reduced the towing and load capacity. Wheel bearings are still original as it approaches 10 years old (bought it 9/9/99).

:crutch:

 

I put an almost 2,000 lb camper on my '00 Tundra and hauled it up and down the moutain for years before getting the 5'er, back then they rated my Tundra to carry 2011 lbs... interesting over the following years they reduced the towing and load capacity. Wheel bearings are still original as it approaches 10 years old (bought it 9/9/99).

Good to know,,,Thanks

 

This is the only other reference to RWB I've noticed: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/164323-rear-wheel-bearings/ Not sure if this guy is for real, or a troll?

 

I referenced in the "Tundra Tow-Mobile" thread a recent discussion with Hino. . . the Rear Axle is very different from the ones on the Hino trucks, which support vehicles with ratings up to 55,000 pounds. However, they are engineered to be much more robust than any other component and are not the limiting factor by far, even after upgrading tires and suspension on your Tundra. No premature axle breakage or unexpected wheel bearing failures are being reported on these rear axles. Which I find reassuring. . .

 

The rear bearing is a dual row ball angular contact. It measures 3.34" OD x 1.92" ID and 1.88" wide. So a 1.47" shaft tapering out to a tad over 1.92". Quite a bit larger than any previous generation big three truck. From what I can gather, the only other truck to use a double row ball is the Dodge with a 2.97" OD x 1.57" ID x 1.57" wide unit. The Ford and Chevy use single row rollers just under 3" OD, shafts of 1.6 - 1.7", bearing width of 1" - 1.19", both bearings ride on the axle shaft, so if you lose a bearing, you lose a shaft.

The Toyota housing is fabricated steel, smallest part is the tube out by the leaf spring and bearing measuring 3.5". That is Dana 60 size. Wall thickness is unknown at this time.

More info later....

 

The rear bearing is a dual row ball angular contact. It measures 3.34" OD x 1.92" ID and 1.88" wide. So a 1.47" shaft tapering out to a tad over 1.92". Quite a bit larger than any previous generation big three truck. From what I can gather, the only other truck to use a double row ball is the Dodge with a 2.97" OD x 1.57" ID x 1.57" wide unit. The Ford and Chevy use single row rollers just under 3" OD, shafts of 1.6 - 1.7", bearing width of 1" - 1.19", both bearings ride on the axle shaft, so if you lose a bearing, you lose a shaft.

The Toyota housing is fabricated steel, smallest part is the tube out by the leaf spring and bearing measuring 3.5". That is Dana 60 size. Wall thickness is unknown at this time.

More info later....

I haven't got even a slight idea about all those numbers, but it looks good to me.

Previous gen. big 3 truck? You talking half ton or what?

Definately an interesting topic. Thanks for the information. :tu:

 

Those are all 1/2 ton semi float axles from Ford/Chevy/Dodge previous models, as in not their current offerings....

 

They won't give you axle rating. They'll only give you "axle rating with P-275/65R18 Tires" But Hino says long term testing "exceeds 30% of the final axle rating". The problem is, all you get is tire rating. Change the tires, and you may as well be in mystery-land.

 

Guys, i have read about the new tundra axle and dont doubt it can handle a lot, but my concern would be more along the line of what can the frame handle? I agree that some on the RV.net forum are narrow minded but some have valid points and there has to be a difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks aside from tires, spring rates and rear.

BTW...stop posting sutff over there i cant take seeing anymore tundra posts, your just feeding the fire they build. Bottom line you know what you have and if you feel comfortable than stop asking them about it, no matter what they will never admit that a toyota could tow as much as one of the mighty 3!

 

Guys, i have read about the new tundra axle and dont doubt it can handle a lot, but my concern would be more along the line of what can the frame handle? I agree that some on the RV.net forum are narrow minded but some have valid points and there has to be a difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks aside from tires, spring rates and rear.

BTW...stop posting sutff over there i cant take seeing anymore tundra posts, your just feeding the fire they build.

Of course the next concern is going to be the frame, being the axle, tires and suspension has been addressed :laser:, gotta have something to shoot at.

As for RV.net, bring it on and then grab the opcorn: and watch the fun. They are a very close minded bunch over there.... sadly.

:crutch: