[AmericanKiwi]

I thought I would follow up on my earlier post where I also mentioned having to fix the rear hatch door handle...another common issue on this vehicle. I am now replacing the door handle for the forth time after it would break every two years or so (I have a 2003 TRD that I have owned from new and I LOVE this truck). Anyway, I am sick of paying my dealer $70-$80 for this plastic part and just purchased a METAL handle on ebay for $21. Hopefully, this will solve the problem once and for all because the plastic handle kept breaking in exactly the same place every time.

Once again. I applaud Tundra Solutions and all those who contribute as I have saved thousands of dollars by using this site. THANKS!!!:beavbutt:

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

This is wonderful. I just picked up my '06 LTD on Monday and got home noticing that the rear window didn't work, thought it wouldn't matter much although would be nice if it worked. Then after reading here I went and checked my rear wiper and defrost for back/mirrors and none of them worked, which is a lot more annoying than a window that I may or may not use.

Quickly followed the TSB and although I can't say I got in the sub 15-minute time frame (my kids were 'helping'), I now have everything working. Good fix and well worth the $5 I spent on the tool to help pop the panels off (I need to pop my door panels off for something else anyway, so I figured it was a good investment).

I saw mention of someone applying lube to some areas to help the window move a little easier, where was the lube applied? My window has probably been stuck for a long time and could probably use some help.

 

[EG]

Folks,

I had the same rear window problem with my 2005 Sequoia. Yesterday, September 4, 2011, I followed the steps Stan gave to Duncan in getting to the motor and tapping it. It worked. Thank God, I didn’t have to go to the dealership to pay the outrageous cost. Thanks all, this is a great technical advice and for free.

Meanwhile, I have another problem, this time with my 1999 Nissan Quest SE minivan. The driver’s side window does not go down, but the passenger’s side is working. Any idea what might be the problem and how I can fix it? Thanks for any help.

EG

 

[Chigger]

Just a picture of the hatch internals.

So we are just talking about the 2 bolts and the spring?

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

Exactly... two bolts, the spring, the plate the two bolts are holding on and the backing plate that the bolts go into. It will be loose once you take the bolts out and you'll have to fish it out.

I'm not sure which year you have, but if you have the ECU in the hatch, reconnect it (I just held up the cover plate with the ECU connected while I did the next step). Then have someone hold the rear window button in the down position with the keys in the 'ON' position. Take your screwdriver/other 'banging' instrument (I used the handle of my ratchet) and hit the window motor a few times while the button is being pressed. The window motor is the cylinder like item on top left of your picture.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

Left over parts:

 

[Chigger]

Can someone post a pic of the tool (or what they use) to pry off the plastic panels? TIA

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

Can someone post a pic of the tool (or what they use) to pry off the plastic panels? TIA

Mine looks similar to this one... you can use a flat head screwdriver as well, but you just position this around the plastic clips and pop them out. Can't take a picture of mine right now, as I'm at work.

 

[chris_Loughlin]

I had the same issue. I tried disconnecting the power to reset any electronics. I held the rear window up button on the dash for 10 seconds. and then for down for 10 seconds to reset the ECU. Did not work. After taking the inside panel off, I felt the motor and it was hot. Hence electricity was getting to the motor. I removed the block and spring form the window frame structure as described in the TSB. Nothing... I tried using a putty knife to slide between the black rubber molding and the window and the window started moving. Success.. Thanks for the comment about the window being stuck to the rubber molding.

 

[sochel]

This thread is on the mark! I just removed all the covers, unplugged all connections, loosened the two screws on step #11, tapped on the motor with a wrench and then tightened everything and the window worked! Just think, last week the dealer said the motor needed to be replaced at a cost of $560 ($300 motor and $260 labor).

 

[Chigger]

Finally got around to this tonight. Got the panel/back cover off, unplugged all connectors, tap the motor but it didn't work.

I gave up but left the plastic panel off to work on my Eclipse BEC106 rear view camera tomorrow. Just slammed the hatch, gave it a shot.... and everything worked!! (window, wipers, defroster).

Another happy member!

 

[angle-iron]

Thank goodness for this web site and sites like it!!!

Mike Erdman Toyota on Merritt Island in Florida told me I would need a new rear window motor at $300 plus labor. I decided I would live with window not working as I very rarely used it anyway. After reading various posts on this subject and finding the following Toyota Service Bulletin (http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/skyvisions/2008-02-25_151840_01_seq.pdf) I went home and removed the metal stopper as outlined on item 14 of the bulletin. I also "tapped" the motor for good measure and disconnected and reconnected wiring harness. Nothing happened until I re-secured the metal panel back to the door and then the window started working. I suspect it was the metal stopper that was the solution and I also suspect the circuit might be grounded by the metal panel and that is why it only started working after I got it all back in place. Repair only took about 30 mins and it cost ZERO!!!

I have fixed several items on my 2002 Sequoia myself thanks to this site... For example; the rear door handle that broke, blown front door speakers and the bulb for the "drive" signal on the dash. These are all items that appear to be common issues on this car and things that can be repaired for a fraction of the cost from a dealer if you are somewhat "handy" and prepared to fix yourself.

Thanks Tundra Solutions!!!

Thanks for the info. I have a 2004 Sequoia with the same problem and will try this fix over the weekend.
BTW– anyone that has a broken handle on RR door and wants to replace it, read this: I have replaced mine three times (2 factory handles and one aftermarket metal handle) I bought a second metal handle and I modified it. I removed the return spring on the handle as it adds pressure to the handle when depressed. So far, it has lasted the longest. I also replaced the cable but that was with the second handle so I know that isn't the problem. I honestly think they don't make Toyotas like they used to.
I have had numerous problems with this car and I don't plan on buying another one :td: but I got some advise from a service writer at a dealership for those of you that still believe in this brand. When you are looking at a Japanese car to buy, look at the VIN# and make sure it starts with a "J" as that means it was built in JAPAN. He said he rarely sees those VINs in the shop for repairs. Don't get me wrong because I am all for BUY AMERICAN and AMERICAN MADE but if you are buying a Japanese car...
I'm jus sayin'

 

[czechm8]

I had my rear window motor replace under warranty a few years ago the first time my rear window stopped working.
Every once in a while, my window will get stuck. If I leave it for a day or two, it usually starts up again...........probably just needs a good jolt to move the motor slightly.
THe last time it stopped........a couple weeks ago...........I had to remove the panel and bang on the motor a bit, but that got it going!
Kind of a PIA to do this, but what else can you do?

Finally got around to this tonight. Got the panel/back cover off, unplugged all connectors, tap the motor but it didn't work.

I gave up but left the plastic panel off to work on my Eclipse BEC106 rear view camera tomorrow. Just slammed the hatch, gave it a shot.... and everything worked!! (window, wipers, defroster).

Another happy member!

 

[sequoiasoon]

make sure when you put all back together that you add some silicone where all the fasteners for the wires go through. If not that little gasket doesn't seal anymore and if parked nose down during rain it will follow and wind up on the inside of main gasket at the hatch. Long enough and it builds up and gets your carpet wet. I'll try to post my pics later from that.

 

[jasper502]

I am troubleshooting the same problem on my 2005 Sequioa. I am going to try the ECU trick tomorrow. Tonight I completely torn down the system until I had the motor hanging by its self. I tried the 'hit it with a hammer' trick with no success. It was only until I had the motor off that I got it to work. Not sure what I did. Put the motor back in and got the arms to move then re-attached the arms to the window and got it to go up and down. Put it all back together and it was dead again. After a few choice words I tore it down but could not get the motor to work again.

Anyone have a schematic for the wiring to help trouble shoot this? I poked around with my volt meter and I am seeing 10V on various pins in the connector.

Also I question that stopper removal touted everywhere. In my opinion that keeps the window from jamming up to far. When I took my mine apart the gear on the arm seems to be jammed at the last tooth and perhaps is part of the problem. I put the stopper back in but adjusted it so that the mechanism stops fully closed but not to tight. On mine I found that because it closed so tight the four bolts on the gear assembly are pushed down so hard it's VERY hard to remove it. ECU results in the morning.

 

[sequoiasoon]

make sure when you put all back together that you add some silicone where all the fasteners for the wires go through. If not that little gasket doesn't seal anymore and if parked nose down during rain it will follow and wind up on the inside of main gasket at the hatch. Long enough and it builds up and gets your carpet wet. I'll try to post my pics later from that.

Pictures in post #21 showing the "dirt/water trails"

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/interior-and-exterior/33019-hatch-leaks-water-sequoia/#post1762043

 

[irv6744]

hi
my 2007 rear window does not go down either.
the metal stopper is not installed so that is not the problem.
i am able to reset the ecu by pressing the up (or down?) button while turning the ignition key to on.
the windshield wiper etc then works after about 10 seconds.
we can hear a click when we try the window and then we need to do the reset again.
what is probably wrong with my window.
can i get lucky and it's just a stuck window or is it the ecu and/or the motor.
thanks

 

[gbooks]

I had my hatch apart today to replace a broken latch handle, so decided to tackle my back window not functioning as well. My rear wiper worked fine, and I could hear the solenoid click, so I figured it was the motor. But I removed the spring and two bolts and two plates as in the TSB and pictured above in everythingsgonegreen's post, and what do you know, I now have a functioning rear window!

 

[JMS111]

I have a 2002 Sequoia with the stuck window problem, and the solution in this post worked for me. I pulled the trim pieces off by hand, with the exception of the main panel. I used a wide screwdriver with a cardboard backer to avoid damaging any of the trim or paint on the door. When you are ready to remove the strap, don't pull the cover straight off. There's a clip in a slot behind the cover that requires you to slide the cover up, towards the window to get it off. Once I had access to the inside of the rear door, I removed the stopper, per the service bulletin, hit the motor a couple times with the back of a screwdriver and tested. All worked well.

 

[06sequoiaguy]

Thanks to everyone in this thread! I have a 2006 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD. I have had it since new and noticed that all of the rear hatch functions (defrost, wiper, window) stopped working about a year ago. It has about 55,000 miles and is not covered by a warranty. The local Toyota Dealer wanted over $100 just to diagnose it. Based on other peoples threads, they probably would have wanted $400-$800 to repair. I took it all apart as instructed in the TSB. I found that I don't have that part that everybody is removing. Believe me, I took out the whole assembly and checked the back too. I gave the motor some taps with the screwdriver as others did and put everything back together. I also rest the ECU which was covered in another thread. To do this, after I finsihed everything and reconnected the battery, I turned the ignition to "on", pressed the rear window up button and held it for 10-12 seconds. You will hear a click when you first press it and another after the 10-12 seconds.

All of my work and I was partially successful. Now the defrost and rear window work. I can only control the window with the inside switch. The key and keyfob won't control the window. Also, my rear wiper is haywire and slams into the stop rest and ends in the middle of the window. If I try to use my rear wiper, it will make everything else not work. Then I have to disconnect the battery, reconnect it, and reset the ECU as outlined above. At least I can control my window from the inside and I have defrost. I will just not use my rear wiper for now. I don't really need it anyway. By the way, I did take off the rear wiper arm and try to re-install it. I couldn't get it to work right. I know the arm has been bent a couple times from running it through a carwash. It got caught on a brush and bent but I bent it back. If anybody knows how to "reset" the wiper, let me know. Oh yeah, I bought a Auto Trim and Moulding Tool Set from Harbor Freight ($9.99) definitely helped. I also found a plastic shield piece was behind the assembly. I just mentioned it because nobody else did. I'm not sure what its there for.

AND ANOTHER THING!!!!! THIS SHOULD DEFINITELY HAVE BEEN A RECALL!!! RIDICULOUS!!!!