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Sequoia rear window not working

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#81 ·
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#82 ·
Thanks for the insight Hoopin, since it sounds like the motor is shot anyway I will try this fix before ordering the replacement:

hurron said:
I just wanted to add my two cents....I had completed the repairs as indicated by others thus far without success. I had power to the motor.

The Fix....I took the motor out of the door and completely apart to find that the brushes brushes had disintegrated and were no longer completing the circuit "within" the motor. Purchased some new brushes and sized them to be the same as the original, put the motor back together and back in the door....FIXED!!!!

I would be this is why the "hitting the motor" or "slamming the door" methods worked. By doing so, it knocked the remaining brush in place to complete the circuit (likely only a temp fix).

Hope this helps out!

Eric
Click to expand...
If not then I will just order one. This one looks to be a refurb:

2006 Toyota Sequoia Rear Tailgate Power Window Motor (A1 Cardone Reman) at 1A Auto.com

is that what you used? or is there somewhere else to purchase new?
Also is this a Toyota part or aftermarket?
 
#83 ·
Sequoia4WD said:
Thanks for the insight Hoopin, since it sounds like the motor is shot anyway I will try this fix before ordering the replacement:



If not then I will just order one. This one looks to be a refurb:

2006 Toyota Sequoia Rear Tailgate Power Window Motor (A1 Cardone Reman) at 1A Auto.com

is that what you used? or is there somewhere else to purchase new?
Also is this a Toyota part or aftermarket?
Click to expand...
Yup, just pulled out my packing slip, and that is the exact one I bought. I saw where that person had disassembled the motor and replaced the brushes, but I don't "play" well with tiny motors. :D
 
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#84 ·
Rear Window Fixed!

Thanks to all the members of this forum for the tips, tricks and trouble shooting advice! You all have been an enormous help in diagnosing the rear window issue. I was able to successfully repair my rear window/wiper/defrost. Here's what worked for me:

As mentioned in my comments above I had tried every troubleshooting technique mentioned in this forum with no success. I was at the point of attempting to disassemble the motor and replacing the brushes as suggested by hurron, figured I had nothing to lose because in my mind the motor was bad and would need a new one anyway.

I read the service bulletin that tells us to remove the regulator to replace the motor. This is NOT necessary. I got to looking at the rear window motor and noticed that it is held in place with only three bolts from behind. Using a mirror I determined the bolts were a T25 torx head and using a 1/4 boxed end wrench with T25 torx bit in the wrench I was able to break them free I then backed them out with a 1/4" drive ratchet with the T25 torx bit in a 1/4" socket. Once these bolts are removed the motor falls free.

With the motor dangling from its harness I decided to give it one last try and to my surprise when disconnected from the regulator it spun free. My motor was good after all!

The window would still not move, I had to go inside for a while so I tucked everything inside the door shut it, when I lightly slammed the door shut the window moved freely. I found a piece of the rubber gasket sealing the window had become dislodged an was partially obstructing the window's channel. I'm guessing that was just enough resistance to keep the window from operating. Perhaps there was something else that was in a bind but I didn't notice it.

Reseated the gasket, reinstalled the motor opposite the way in which it was removed, tested, reset auto switch by holding each direction for a couple seconds and window it ran perfect as did the wiper and defrost!

Attached are a couple images for reference, let me know if anyone has any questions about the procedure I used.

Thanks Again! Great Thread!
 
#85 ·
My window quit working after I replaced the rear handle a few years ago.

I winged it (hadn't discovered all these cool forums yet) and removed or loosened the motor at one point. Turned out I didn't have to, I later noticed the access hole I could have used . It's been a few years so the details are fuzzy.

Anyway, after replacing the handle, the window would not work. I loosened and re tightened the motor a few times, played around with it etc then gave up and just disconnected the plug. I bet it is that little spring and plate that has to be removed. Will report back thanks.

Just realized that since my motor has had a nice long rest it should last a little longer ha ha. Better give it a few taps while I'm at it.
 
#87 ·
Well it wasn't that spring / brake assembly. Removed it and still had my problem. I did screw up the motor when I did the rear handle way back when.

I ordered an aftermarket replacement from Cardone motors..about $70 on e bay. Took the hint from a previous poster and did not remove the entire lift assembly, did not even disconnect any of the wire connectors. Loosened the cover plate with the 8 or so screws and got a piece of wire and hooked the plate to the frame above it where it was hanging down about 12" or so.

Took a little socket and a torx bit. Made sure the torx bit was wedged in tight (did not want to lose the bit inside the hanging plate). Took a little piece of tape and put it into the socket ..the bit was tight for sure. Then removed the three screws with the socket pretty much by feel.

The new Cardone motor came with two open (female) wire terminals..red and green. My 2003 Sequoia also was a two wire set up (red and white..so red to red. I cut off the connector that the original motor plugged into and stripped the wires and got them into the open terminals on the Cardone motor and crimped them. taped up nice with electrical tape, a wire tie to attach it to the frame and done.

The motor won't activate until you put the metal plate back on..must have a ground or something, I don't know.

Anyhow..all's well..haven't had that window working for 5 years or so, nice to have again.

I would definitely get an after market motor..Cardone seems to have a good rep..old company etc USA made ...oops just looked at the box..made in China ha ha oh well. Perfect fit too. I got the model # 82-1104..two wire..2003 Sequoia.
 
#89 ·
So, taking that little break mechanism off completely will fix the problem?

I have an '05. Had the rear window motor replaced while it was still under warranty. Window still occasionally gets stuck in the up position. I just remove the back cover and tap the motor a few times, and that seems to get it going again for a while. Getting tired of continuing to have to do this all the time.
 
#91 ·
I have an 04 limited, and frequently deal with this issue. My normal fix is to hit the motor with a pipe wrench a few times and it starts working again. I did what was stated in the above video and re-position the safety catch thing, but that did not fix the problem. I just hit it with the ol pipe wrench and everything worked again.

I'm going to try to operate the window at least once a day to ensure it keeps working. Side note, whenever my rear window does not go down, i always hear two faint clicks when I press the button. Anyone else ever hear the clicks?
 
#92 ·
Sequoia 2006 Window, Windshield Wiper and Defroster not workimg.
I have read many issues on the Sequoia with these problems as a result of defect in the design of the Rear Door Hatch. TSB was issued which identifies various problems and in addition, repair procedures for correcting the rear Windshield, wiper and defrost. I recently repaired my rear door hatch for the problems I had with my Sequoia 2006. First, remove the rear Window trimmings using Spatula left and right and the rear panel. Once expose start with the Windshield Motor and remove the 3 Star type screws using T25 Star screw removal. Test the motor and see if it is working visually. If you are the only one doing the repair, you can test the Rear Window motor by pushing the dash button and you be able to see the motor wiggle. That indicate you have power. If not, replace it with a rebuilt or new one. In my case a rebuilt worked just well. After I have installed the new motor, I tested it and the rear Window worked including the Wiper and Defroster. My cost for the rebuilt motor is $75 bucks and 2 hours of work. I did not need a rear door ECU and only the Motor which powered the Windshield, Wiper and Defrost.
 
#94 · (Edited)
Remove my rear window lock and spring and it fixed my window. Thank you all for the info.

I found the clear plastic guard in pieces inside the hatch and the window clicks/pops two times as it goes up/down. I can also hear something dragging on the window. I'm thinking this broken piece shielded the glass from the hatch release cable? Any one else have this issue or know how to solve it?

I searched the web for that plastic guard but cannot find it anywhere. Here is a borrowed image of the plastic piece I need:

Image
 
#98 ·
Don't want to start a new thread, and this one seems pertinent.


My rear window works, but it squeals horribly as it goes down and up. I am assuming that lubing something would help with that, but what? And what with? The rubber molding? The window track? Any special type of lube I should or shouldn't use?
 
#99 ·
Probably the tracks in the door. However to check real quick I would do this:
-Roll window down
-Take a cloth and your interior dressing or rubber dressing of choice.
-Spray on the cloth and run it all around inside the molding making sure they're clean.
 
#100 ·
Is there a way to bypass the rear window saftey to allow the wiper and defroster to run. Mine has been stuck for a few years and I don't really care that it doesn't roll down...I just would like a wiper and defroster.
 
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