I changed the fluid in mine one time and it done that and if i remember right it took it a few weeks to quit.

 

I changed the fluid in mine one time and it done that and if i remember right it took it a few weeks to quit.

So your PS pump was fine? How long since you did that service?

 

Sounds like you need to bleed the air out of the system.

Rev the engine a little bit and turn the wheel side to side (almost to lock each way). Should help especially considering the pump made no noise prior to the fluid change. Also, recheck your fluid level as it may have gone down some while it worked its way through the lines.

 

Sounds like you need to bleed the air out of the system.

Rev the engine a little bit and turn the wheel side to side (almost to lock each way). Should help especially considering the pump made no noise prior to the fluid change. Also, recheck your fluid level as it may have gone down some while it worked its way through the lines.

Thanks. I did do that... a bunch of times. It was making me pretty nervous at first because the noise was so loud, especially when turning the wheel. I went through the process with seeing the small air bubbles in the reservoir... and then those disappeared. I did a test drive for about 20 minutes and fluid level did not drop. The noise definitely has gotten more quiet but it is still noticeable.

I was pretty sure I followed proper procedure. I checked in the manual for bleeding and I did exactly what it said. Whining noise sure sounds like that "bad pump" sound.

Hopefully as Tundraman stated it will just go away in time. Spending $350.00 on a new pump will negate a large chunk of the money I saved on doing the services myself. Oh well, whatta ya gonna do? Thanks again for the help.

 

My manual states that the first air bleed is done with the front wheels raised, engine off, and turning the steering lock to lock a few times. Lower the front end, check the fluid level and then repeat with the engine idling, this time holding the steering in each locked position for 2-3 seconds. This worked well for me, slight whine was present afterwards for about 10 minutes ( pump also has over 230,000 miles on it , works fine). Perhaps try this again to see if it helps.

 

My manual states that the first air bleed is done with the front wheels raised, engine off, and turning the steering lock to lock a few times. Lower the front end, check the fluid level and then repeat with the engine idling, this time holding the steering in each locked position for 2-3 seconds. This worked well for me, slight whine was present afterwards for about 10 minutes ( pump also has over 230,000 miles on it , works fine). Perhaps try this again to see if it helps.

Yeah, that is where I screwed up. The simplest things . I missed turning the wheels from lock to lock while having them raised... after I closed the system. I just set it down and started the truck and then did the lock to lock bleed. Hope I can save it. Thanks.

 

I am curious as to why you changed the fluid? I have been driving for 30+ years and have not had one PS pump go out on me, I have never changed the fluid. Isnt most of fluid in the rack? I had had a few PS hoses go bad and they are a PIA to change. I hope all is well with your pump you may want to drain again and put in fluid one more time and follow the direction with bleeding before starting the truck. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I am curious as to why you changed the fluid? I have been driving for 30+ years and have not had one PS pump go out on me, I have never changed the fluid. Isnt most of fluid in the rack? I had had a few PS hoses go bad and they are a PIA to change. I hope all is well with your pump you may want to drain again and put in fluid one more time and follow the direction with bleeding before starting the truck. Good luck and keep us posted.

Well, this may be a case of too much information. I am one of the many that have a steering rack leak. I noticed a drop in fluid level at the reservoir, after I noticed the leak on the rack. I took it to the dealer and at this point Toyota calls it seepage and will not replace it under warranty. Just to clarify, both boots had that dark moisture look on the bottom of them. A couple of bolts also had that moisture (fluid) that attracted dirt/dust. There was no actual dripping.

I started reading posts here on TS about it and about what people have experienced. Racks falling apart... rusting out from the inside with no visible signs of rust on them. The question of moisture and possible dirty fluid inside had me thinking, why not replace the fluid, I have two cases of the stuff taking up space in the shop, how hard could it be? HA, not hard if you follow directions which I am usually very good at.

I will definitely post what happens. Thanks for asking and the interest.

 

I'd try treating it with about 4oz of Auto-Rx, let it run for about 1,000 miles, then every 4-5 days, suck out the fluid in the reservoir and replace with new. Do this for about 30 days (6-7 changes) and you should have a decent ratio of new fluid in there.

The Auto-Rx conditions the seals while it cleans and traps moisture, so you might also get a reduction in the leakage amount and/or a complete stoppage of the leak(s).

 

I'd try treating it with about 4oz of Auto-Rx, let it run for about 1,000 miles, then every 4-5 days, suck out the fluid in the reservoir and replace with new. Do this for about 30 days (6-7 changes) and you should have a decent ratio of new fluid in there.

The Auto-Rx conditions the seals while it cleans and traps moisture, so you might also get a reduction in the leakage amount and/or a complete stoppage of the leak(s).

Thanks Duffy. I was looking at Auto Rx when I read the post about it. I am intrigued... seems like a good product. I will probably give it a try. Especially since they have the sale still going. When the Toyota tech topped it off I wonder what he used? Maybe they are putting that stuff in.

Do you think the complete flush (removing lines etc) is not a good idea?

 

Thanks Duffy. I was looking at Auto Rx when I read the post about it. I am intrigued... seems like a good product. I will probably give it a try. Especially since they have the sale still going. When the Toyota tech topped it off I wonder what he used? Maybe they are putting that stuff in.

Do you think the complete flush (removing lines etc) is not a good idea?

I wouldn't mess with it structurally unless I absolutely had to; and, for me, that would mean a complete replacement. The lanolin ester-based makeup of the Auto-Rx gets into all the nooks and crannies to clean.

I'm a definite believer in that stuff. It completely eliminated the harsh shifts I was experiencing which, to me, is a harbinger of a clogged valve body and a subsequent failing transmission if left uncorrected. I just finished up with a drain/refill with 4qts of Mobil-1 Synthetic ATF and that made it feel like brand new!

Give it a try and post back your findings.

 

I wouldn't mess with it structurally unless I absolutely had to; and, for me, that would mean a complete replacement. The lanolin ester-based makeup of the Auto-Rx gets into all the nooks and crannies to clean.

I'm a definite believer in that stuff. It completely eliminated the harsh shifts I was experiencing which, to me, is a harbinger of a clogged valve body and a subsequent failing transmission if left uncorrected. I just finished up with a drain/refill with 4qts of Mobil-1 Synthetic ATF and that made it feel like brand new!

Give it a try and post back your findings.

I will. It is on it's way.


I went ahead and lifted the front wheels and did the turning lock to lock. The fluid level was right at the top of the "hot" mark and interestingly the fluid overflowed from the reservoir while doing this. Maybe I should have waited until it cooled down. Anyway, I then lowered the front end turned the truck on and did another round of lock to lock holding for a few seconds each time. Still have some noise. I can hardly hear it unless I am turning the wheel at higher RPMs. I will wait a few weeks and see what happens.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Also thanks to the mod who corrected my spelling in the thread title.

 

Day 3 after flush. I drove for about an hour or so today. Hardly heard the pump whining at all. Maybe I got lucky and it will all be OK.

 

A tip that may help in the future...

Set the e-brake & put the front on jackstands (tires in the air).

Draw out the fluid in the reservoir (turkey baster). Disconnect the return line, and run it to a drain pan (hose extension...just get anything you can fit over the line). Block the return line fitting on the reservoir...I use a stub of hose with a bolt crammed in the end...then make sure you've removed as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and fill it almost to the top.

Now turn the wheels lock to lock, refill the reservoir as necessary before the fluid level hits bottom (or you'll likely draw in air...a helper here is handy!), and continue until you see fresh fluid pumping out the return line. Reconnect everything, make sure the fluid level is correct, and fire it up.

The fluid degrades as it heats up, and it does take in wear particles from the pump and rack...as it thins out, it'll get harder to steer. It's easy enough to do this service, you may as well do it when you change the differential fluid or during your yearly service if you drive in such a way as to warrant it...

-Sean

 

A tip that may help in the future...

Set the e-brake & put the front on jackstands (tires in the air).

Draw out the fluid in the reservoir (turkey baster). Disconnect the return line, and run it to a drain pan (hose extension...just get anything you can fit over the line). Block the return line fitting on the reservoir...I use a stub of hose with a bolt crammed in the end...then make sure you've removed as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and fill it almost to the top.

Now turn the wheels lock to lock, refill the reservoir as necessary before the fluid level hits bottom (or you'll likely draw in air...a helper here is handy!), and continue until you see fresh fluid pumping out the return line. Reconnect everything, make sure the fluid level is correct, and fire it up.

The fluid degrades as it heats up, and it does take in wear particles from the pump and rack...as it thins out, it'll get harder to steer. It's easy enough to do this service, you may as well do it when you change the differential fluid or during your yearly service if you drive in such a way as to warrant it...

-Sean

Thanks Sean.

I did not plug any of the lines. I just kept turning the wheels lock to lock and adding fluid to reservoir. I am pretty certain I got air in the system. I did the "bleed" that is discussed in the manual. The question is, is it just too late for this pump? It is working, and the whine has lessoned but it is still there.

 

I can't see it harming anything as long as it wasn't run dry (i.e. totally without fluid) for a significant period.

 

Yeah, I'd run it.

I didn't really plug anything major...just set it up so I could fill the reservoir to the top, without fluid leaking out the return flange. Since I was working solo, it meant fewer trips from the seat to refill the reservoir.

 

Yeah, I'd run it.

I didn't really plug anything major...just set it up so I could fill the reservoir to the top, without fluid leaking out the return flange. Since I was working solo, it meant fewer trips from the seat to refill the reservoir.

Well, that is what I am doing now. I can still hear it though when engine rpms are up and I turn the wheel but, not really during normal driving. So, I must have run it dry enough to do something.

I was on my own as well. I used a bucket for one line and a pan for the other. When I first started the truck after fluid change the thing was screaming for a while. I'd say several minutes. So that may have been dry for a long enough time to do some minor damage. Someone else posted it went away after a couple of weeks. We shall see.

Any one know if the PS pump will just start making more noise again if it starts to fail? Hopefully slowly so I can order one and not have any other issues.

I really hope that this is all moot. Thanks.

 

I thought I killed mine on my 06dc. I installed a Mile Marker winch which runs off the P/S pump. When I reconnected everything and started it up to bleed the system, wow was that screech bad. Cavatation of the air in the pump in the noise. Try starting engine/PS pump, turn to full lock left or right and turn off engine holding wheel tight to purge air at very end of steering shaft. Check PS fluid res for bubbles rising, give time 5 - 10 min to finish. Repeat many times side to side until no more bubbles. Worked for me 2 years and many winch pulls ago with the same PS pump. Even did same after plastic magnafilter broke and spilled PS fluid out at start of 7 mi drive. Refilled system, bleed and off we go.

 

I thought I killed mine on my 06dc. I installed a Mile Marker winch which runs off the P/S pump. When I reconnected everything and started it up to bleed the system, wow was that screech bad. Cavatation of the air in the pump in the noise. Try starting engine/PS pump, turn to full lock left or right and turn off engine holding wheel tight to purge air at very end of steering shaft. Check PS fluid res for bubbles rising, give time 5 - 10 min to finish. Repeat many times side to side until no more bubbles. Worked for me 2 years and many winch pulls ago with the same PS pump. Even did same after plastic magnafilter broke and spilled PS fluid out at start of 7 mi drive. Refilled system, bleed and off we go.

Thanks for chiming in. Appreciate it! I turned that wheel lock to lock with the truck off/on... a whole bunch of times. Hopefully I got it.

How's that Winch? I want to get one. Did you do an upgraded front bumper? What made you go with hydraulic? Probably should start a different topic for this.

 

The bleeding took a long time. I put a flashlight up to the res, the bubbles are really tiny.

The winch is great. No bumper yet, would like one, but they cost too much or look too much like a tank. I put a front tow hitch receiver (frame mounted) and did the quick disconnect set up. I found the best pricing from Winches Plus on the web for the winch and most of the stuff. Fabed brackets to hold cooler in front of radiator.

The most difficult thing to figure out was how to get the fluid from the pump to the

 

Oops, fingers hit the wrong button.

Mile Marker fluid switch. The kit from Mile Marker will not connect as our trucks have a vacuum line attached at the pump connection. Solution, get a hose from junk yard, and have local shop cut and weld/fab each end with female connection.

I then had to fab a bracket to hold the mile marker diverter with all the hoses, between the ps fluid res and the air cleaner.

Anyway I really love the winch, has pulled logs out of the woods, me out of the snow, friends out of the mud. And the way I have it set up, when the week is here and the tundra is a school bus, I can just stow the winch set up in the closet. Next weekend when I go out in the woods out comes the winch, Hi-Lift and shovel.

 

Hydraulic to allow longer pulls, no battery issues, underwater operation. I forgot to mention the Kabota tractor my neighbor got stuck in 2ft of snow last Christmas.

 

A tip that may help in the future...

Set the e-brake & put the front on jackstands (tires in the air).

Draw out the fluid in the reservoir (turkey baster). Disconnect the return line, and run it to a drain pan (hose extension...just get anything you can fit over the line). Block the return line fitting on the reservoir...I use a stub of hose with a bolt crammed in the end...then make sure you've removed as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and fill it almost to the top.

Now turn the wheels lock to lock, refill the reservoir as necessary before the fluid level hits bottom (or you'll likely draw in air...a helper here is handy!), and continue until you see fresh fluid pumping out the return line. Reconnect everything, make sure the fluid level is correct, and fire it up.
....-Sean

Good description of an easy, fool proof way to do it. I have used this method after seeing this website and description: RAV4World - :: View topic - DIY - Power Steering Flush

I did the turkey baster method for years, but this way is more thorough and not much harder.
/Mike

 

That is a good link. Thanks!

It has been a little over 2 weeks now and I no longer hear the PS pump. The fluid level dropped slightly so maybe the system purged more air. Hopefully the pump will last indefinitely.