A couple of questions:

1. What does the pedal feel like? Firm? Squishy?
2. What braking performance do you have? Vibration? Pulling to one side? Squeaking/squealing?
3. When backing up (after a forward motion stop), does the clunking/rattling only happen once, i.e. if you stopped and then continued reversing and stopped again, do the above noises repeat?
4. How old are the rotors? Have you verified minimum specified thickness?

It could be a couple of things:

1. Double check the proper fit of the pad set itself. The pad model number should be printed on the back. Wouldn't be the first time that the wrong pads are in a mismarked box.
2. Make sure that the caliper in question has freely-moving pistons. Even one piston on a side stuck in the retracted state will allow a pad to move around, rattle, clunk, etc.
3. Verify that the caliper holes for the pad mounting pins are not deformed in any way allowing the pins excessive play. If they rattle around in those holes, you'll have noise.
4. Make sure that the wire pad separation springs are not fatigued. If these have been in service for some time, replacement might help the symptoms.
5. Finally, make sure that you adequately lubed the inside of the caliper where the brake pads ride and the pad retention pins and corresponding mounting holes with a good application of high-temp brake grease.

Don't get discouraged. Brake work is actually one of the most straightforward maintenance/repair functions we can do as an owner to save some serious money. You can make some simple, common mistakes though. Just takes practice.

Post back your results.

 

A couple of questions:

1. What does the pedal feel like? Firm? Squishy?

Very very squishy... there is about 1/4 push of play until it starts braking.

2. What braking performance do you have? Vibration? Pulling to one side? Squeaking/squealing?

No Vibration, sometimes a little pull, and a ton of squeaking... it stops squeaking if I starts braking.

3. When backing up (after a forward motion stop), does the clunking/rattling only happen once, i.e. if you stopped and then continued reversing and stopped again, do the above noises repeat?

If I go in reverse and brake it rattles, If I let go of the brake and keep going it rattles and clunks

4. How old are the rotors? Have you verified minimum specified thickness?

Rotors are Original about 3 Turns on them and 70k on them too. I took them to Napa to get resurfaced/turned and they said that they were okay but it was the last turn to do on them.

It could be a couple of things:

1. Double check the proper fit of the pad set itself. The pad model number should be printed on the back. Wouldn't be the first time that the wrong pads are in a mismarked box.

I bought them from Autozone and they fit just fine and are the 2nd set.

2. Make sure that the caliper in question has freely-moving pistons. Even one piston on a side stuck in the retracted state will allow a pad to move around, rattle, clunk, etc.

The both sides' inner pads move around about 1/8" and they are the source of all the noise I believe.

3. Verify that the caliper holes for the pad mounting pins are not deformed in any way allowing the pins excessive play. If they rattle around in those holes, you'll have noise.

Pins are new and they slide freely in the caliper holes but theyre snug in there I think?

4. Make sure that the wire pad separation springs are not fatigued. If these have been in service for some time, replacement might help the symptoms.

They're new as well but I dont think Autozone is the most trustworthy place for parts so I'm not sure.

5. Finally, make sure that you adequately lubed the inside of the caliper where the brake pads ride and the pad retention pins and corresponding mounting holes with a good application of high-temp brake grease.

I cleaned them out really well and regreased so I think they should be fine.

Don't get discouraged. Brake work is actually one of the most straightforward maintenance/repair functions we can do as an owner to save some serious money. You can make some simple, common mistakes though. Just takes practice.

Post back your results.

Thanks for all the help brotha!! It means a lot to me, I'm frustrated with my mechanical skills lol So a bit of help or a lot is always great!

 

Sounds like you could use to rework the calipers, they may be sticking and not allowing the pads to move freely. I have used the Auto Zone pads on my 2000 for years and never had any problems.

Rebuild kits are cheap.

Kevin

 

It sounds at the moment like you retracted the pistons and installed the new pads, but just haven't pumped the pedal a couple times to re-seat the pistons against the new pads. It should firm up with a few pumps, then it should be fine.

If it firms up, then gets squishy again, there's a serious problem.

 

It sounds at the moment like you retracted the pistons and installed the new pads, but just haven't pumped the pedal a couple times to re-seat the pistons against the new pads. It should firm up with a few pumps, then it should be fine.

If it firms up, then gets squishy again, there's a serious problem.

I pumped them and just redid it again and it stiffens up then gets really squishy again... the inner pads on both sides are pretty much floating now so they squeal like crazy

 

I pumped them and just redid it again and it stiffens up then gets really squishy again... the inner pads on both sides are pretty much floating now so they squeal like crazy

How did your brakes feel before you did all of this? if fine then you must go to the last thing you changed, troubleshooting 101.
Take the caliper off the truck and if you have access to a presure bleeder pump it up and watch the puck if it moves feely or if it goes so far and gets cocked or no movement at all. If you can not get the tool use a friend with a light foot to do the same.
The puck builds up a ridge line of scum or dirt, and when you force it back beyond that ridge line they will hang up.
The good thing is rebuild kits of just o rings, or even a new puck are low priced just remeber to hone the puck cavity and clean it well with brake cleaner before you install the new parts. ( part stores sell brake hones for the rear wheel cylinder repairs on drum brakes for a low price also).
Kevin

 

Rebuilding calipers may be a bit too much for him. With where he's at, I can't see him honing the bores. He should just get rebuilt calipers. I would at this stage.

 

Good point as there may be other things wrong with the calipers anyway rebuilds would be a good choice, check Rockauto, they have competetive prices.

Kevin.

 

I just replaced rotors, pads, and cleaned everything thouroughly, guess that did the job, thanks guys!!