I remember that it was posted by someone that the 5/8 will work just as well. I ran into the same problem when I went to Sears, I guy just looked at me funny......

 

I have one of those 200 pc sets and it came with a 16mm deep set socket!! I swapped out the rubber gasket from the other set and I was ready to go. I have to agree that it isn't a very common tool.

PS- Don't forget the extension

 

Use a 5/8" spark plug socket,there's no need to modify a 16mm socket

 

Thanks guys for the quick response. Guess I will try the 5/8 and if thats to loose then I'll just pull out the rubber insert and put it in my 16MM deep socket. Thanks again.

Dang and I thought I was gonna get a new tool. Augh Augh Augh (Tim Allen) Can't have to many tools.

 

If anything, a 5/8" socket would give you a more snug fit. It's acutally 4 thousandths of an inch smaller than a 16mm socket!

Can you tell I just learned how to use the 'conversion' function on my calculator? It's soooo cool .

 

Thanks guys for the quick response. Guess I will try the 5/8 and if thats to loose then I'll just pull out the rubber insert and put it in my 16MM deep socket. Thanks again.

Dang and I thought I was gonna get a new tool. Augh Augh Augh (Tim Allen) Can't have to many tools.

You torque the plugs to such slight amount that a little size variation isn't too big a deal. In this case it's on the small size, so as long as you can get the plug in there it's fine. I put Bosch plugs in and 5/8 fit fine.

You'll find a 5/8 will fit fine. I didn't torque mine to 13 ft-lbs though. I just set mine at 11.

In fact, I just went through to retorque and double check my plugs and it seemed that 11 ft-lbs was fine.

Seems like the factory did it to a lower setting than 13 ft-lbs initially.

Alan

 

I just finished changing out the plugs. They all looked the same (evenly worn barely) and still very in pretty good shape at 27,700 miles.

Murphys Law - I went to pull the first plug and discovered that my old 5/8" plug socket was missing the rubber insert. Went over to the neighborhood auto parts and low and behold they sold a 5/8-16MM plug socket. It was only .99 to.

Only took about 30 minutes to change out the plugs once I had the right tools. BTW I put the Denso plugs in.

Alan your right I don't think those stock plugs were torqued to 13lbs. The new ones are torqued by "feel" as I have allways done. Thanks for the info guys. Another maintenance item chalked off the list.

 

Quick question regarding the plug change...

Do you think it's better to change the plugs a litttle before an oil change, so that any crud that may get into the system will flush out with the old oil?

I'm about to do my big 30k service (I'm at 29,xxx right now) and wanted to get your opinions on whether I should do the plug change now or wait and do it all at one sitting (plugs, oil, rear diff, etc, etc.)

Thanks,
Andy

 

Quick question regarding the plug change...

Do you think it's better to change the plugs a litttle before an oil change, so that any crud that may get into the system will flush out with the old oil?

I'm about to do my big 30k service (I'm at 29,xxx right now) and wanted to get your opinions on whether I should do the plug change now or wait and do it all at one sitting (plugs, oil, rear diff, etc, etc.)

Thanks,
Andy

What crude? The plugs tubes are sealed. If you are careful nothing should get into those holes.

I would do everything all at one sitting, but if time is an issue, changing the plugs seperately is an easy task that can be split off.

Jeff

 

Andy if it were me, I would change out all the stuff in one day. That way its done. As far as changing the oil after the plug change, can't hurt, but wouldn't think it would make much difference either. Those plug covers protect the plug tubes from getting any/or much junk down there. Mine actually had a slight vacuum to them. The tubes still looked very shiny. You will need an assortment of socket extensions when you change them out. But the change out was very simple.

 

Thanks guys...I appreciate your responses! Like I said, I wasn't sure so I thought I'd ask...now I know the plug tubes are sealed...cool! I will just do it all at one time.

Thanks again!

 

Thanks guys...I appreciate your responses! Like I said, I wasn't sure so I thought I'd ask...now I know the plug tubes are sealed...cool! I will just do it all at one time.

Thanks again!

Andy, you might want to clean the throttle body and intake as best as you can before you pull the plugs.

Usually, I'd clean all that out and then run it for a while to get the crud out before I put in new plugs. I can't prove it, but I think they stay cleaner that way rather than cleaning on new plugs.

So far, I haven't figured out a way to clean the intake while it's running. There is no place to inject cleaner and with the air filter disconnected the engine won't run.

Still, if you are going to put cleaner in there, I'd let the residue build up on old plugs and then pull them and put the fresh ones in.

Be sure to put an injector cleaner in the fuel when you're changing oils and/or plugs. I do it more often than that. I put weak solutions in once a month and a full cleaner quarterly.

Alan

 

Alan...will do! I actually cleaned my throttle body a few months back when everyone was chatting about it, but I'll definitely take another look at it. Also, thanks for the reminder on the fuel injector cleaner...got one bottle of Primrose left!

Thanks again,
Andy

 

You will need an assortment of socket extensions when you change them out. But the change out was very simple.

an "assortment" is right LOL...also grab yourself a universal joint. it will save you a headache on the plug closest to the driver, which is probably 25 minutes of that 30 minute total . there's a lotta plumbing over there!
i grabbed i think a 12", 6", and i already had a 4", and a universal joint. went like a snap, even on that hard-to-reach plug. i actually used all of them at various moments on that plug since it was a lot easier than wrestling with a long extension amongst all the plumbing.

alan, the engine will run with the air filter disconnected, as eric found when he bounced his fipk off on a rough spot offroad. it just wont like it ! a little like sandblasting the engine. or do you mean with all the hoses and connections removed? dunno about that...is there a failsafe in the engine to prevent starting with hoses removed?

-sean

 

I cleaned my throttle body this past Saturday (before I put in plugs yesterday). I used a bottle (some of it) of B&G fuel system spray cleaner on it. My buddy works at a Lincoln dealership and thats what they use.

Anyways my truck would NOT run with the intake tube disconnected at the throttle body, period. I think that is because the mass airflow sensor is bypassed. The cleaner I was using said to spray well, then start the engine and while running spray it down even more. (yes it is safe for oxygen sensors and also contained a lubricant) It would start but then immediately die. If we could figure out a way to keep the MAF sensor hooked up then I think it would run.

Sean your right I too think I used all my extensions at one time or another while changing the plugs (1-2", 1-4", and 2-6"). I was quit surprised that all the plugs had just a shade of white color to them and besides that still looked pretty new after 27,700 miles. Especially when the book says to change them at 30,000. These plugs would have easily have done 50,000. Not that I recommend that of coarse.

 

wow...my oem plugs looked like hell when i changed them at about 35k or so...they looked like the eraser end of a mechanical pencil, you know, those little ones? im about to check my densos here at 60k, we'll see how the iridium plugs hold up.
the disconnected air filter i was thinking of was before the maf, i wasnt thinking straight. i can see how it'd die, its probably thinking its getting no or minimal air, so the mixture is too rich at first, then waaay too thin so it dies. i wonder if the engine will turn over if the maf sensor is disconnected but everything else is normal?
i just grab a bottle of whatever (throttle body cleaner) from kmart and an old toothbrush, take the throttle body off, drape a few lint-free cloths and a towel over the important bits, and scrub away. that way i worry less about getting debris inside the intake manifold.

-sean

 

Deepstealth and SatTundra,

I'll give you a tip to help a lot with those plugs. Go to a Kragen's (or a sister company) and get one of their stubby ratchets (red rubber handle) for $10 or so. Actually, get a 1/4 and a 3/8 inch.

Because they are less then 15 ft-lbs you can remove the plugs with a stubby with a 4 inch extension (maybe it's 6) and even put it back in without fear of overtightening.

After doing it the first time, I double checked/retorqued my plugs in about 10 minutes to 11 ft-lbs a week later. That's loosening and retorqueing (and pulling all the plug boots off and putting them back on).

The stubby is great on the drivers side. Once you get it tight, pull it off and then slip the torque wrench on there and check the tightness. You shouldn't even have to move the wrench a couple degrees. Obviously on the passenger a regular ratchet will work, but a stubby is still sooooooo much easier to use.

I've even got a palm ratchet which lets you remove and install by just twisting your wrrst - converts the socket and extension to more of a screwdriver like tool. That's the fastest of all but there is no way I could estimate (or even turn it) to 11 to 13 ft-lbs. Those are only a couple bucks, but that should be in every tool box too.

But if you get a 1/4 inch stubby ratchet and put a deep 10 mm (think it's ten) socket on it and get a 3/8 inch stubby ratchet with a 6 inch extension and the 5/8 socket you'll be able to do the job much faster.

It's pretty much a pain getting a full size ratchet in there. Too, get a couple wobble extensions and it's even easier since you can angle the extension and rachet 15 degrees off center or so. But two of them together and you can get 30 degrees of center which is enough to move around just about any obstruction as needed. With a normal entension you're stuck with whatever the extension is pointing at and/or touching.

Alan

 

Alan your probably right, in fact i'm sure your right BUT I just wouldn't feel right about changing plugs without using the old trusty 3/8" rachet. Now I have no objection to using the wobble extensions, which I do need to pick up a few.

I have seen what I call a "T handle" socket plug remover. You know it is a T with about a 6" extension connected to a swivel then the socket. I think they only cost about $5.

 

Alan your probably right, in fact i'm sure your right BUT I just wouldn't feel right about changing plugs without using the old trusty 3/8" rachet. Now I have no objection to using the wobble extensions, which I do need to pick up a few.

I have seen what I call a "T handle" socket plug remover. You know it is a T with about a 6" extension connected to a swivel then the socket. I think they only cost about $5.

You can still use your 3/8" ratchet. Just get one with a 4 or 5 inch handle instead of 8 or 10. It's soooooo much easier to twist around in that tight area. You're not banging against stuff. You can swing it 45 to 90 degrees before you hit anything and probably even more.

You'll see...... Try it and then you'll feel like and idiot for not having one sooner. Kind of like suddenly realizing you can put peanut butter with jelly. "why didn't I try this sooner?" Like I said, it's soooooo much easier.

I don't go for the t-handle thing. I know what you're talking about. Maybe if they put some find of a ratchet on it. Might be okay on a lawn mower though. But access isn't an issue there. I'd use a full size ratchet there.

I do (well, did until my friend broke it) have a ratcher where you twist a T that goes into the handle and it turns. You can either twist the T or use it normally as a ratchet.

I still think I'd use a stubby 4 or 5 inch ratchet in that circumstance though. Kind of like having a few wobbles, once you get them you don't even use the "straight" ones any more because they are so much more flexible. I still have mine, but I never use them unless I'm using 3 socket wrenches as once because I'm too lazy to pull the socket off to change to a different size.

The only reason I use a straight one is when a nut or bolt is so hard I need for it to stay perpendicular while I wack on the handle with a hammer. (I'm kind of hard on my tools, that's why I try to buy the best ones - they can take it).

Alan

 

I'm just wondering why people are changing plugs at 20,000 - 30,000 miles? As a mechanic, I can say that is a complete waste of money and time, today's plugs last 100,000 miles, change them at 76,000 if that makes you feel better but unless you are having an issue then it's a waste! Also changing plugs and changing oil, one has no relation to the other, except they are both maintainance!

 

Well things were different 20 years ago and people had a hard time getting used to the fact that plugs could last that long. Much like back then lots of guys did 3k oil changes. Hell some of these old guys still do and cant seem to get past that.
Is there any other reason you joined the site besides to point out flaws in thinking from a thread from 20 years ago?